Training is much more than just teaching the equine to be driven or ridden. It is a responsibility to the equine athlete to develop his body correctly so he can do the things you ask of him. This means that you must be willing to go slowly enough at each stage of training to develop the muscles, tendons and ligaments over a good frame (proper equine posture). This does NOT start in the round pen, but on the lead line. This is the first place that his posture and the correct building of muscle, etc. will take place. Showmanship work on the lead line helps to establish strength and balance on the flat in a controlled situation. Leading over obstacles adds coordination to strength and balance before they go to the round pen and learn to balance at all three gaits on the circle. If you begin in the round pen without the proper amount of time spent on the lead line, most equines will have difficulty and you can experience bad behaviors during training.
The physical loss of balance is the most prevalent and produces most bad behaviors in mules and donkeys. When the training program takes into account the details of correctly developing muscles, tendons and ligaments over an aligned frame, using an adequate period of time for this to actually happen, the equine (horses included) will recognize that the handler is actually making them feel good all over, and they will be more willing to comply. Truly bad behaviors are then non-existent, and the annoying behaviors they exhibit are no worse than a child testing his limits. It takes years to grow and develop properly, so be fair and considerate to your equine by setting him up for success and giving him the benefits of patience, kindness, respect and plenty of time to develop. Condensing the training program to teach “things” to your equine, with no regard to how long it takes to build muscle over a correct frame at any given stage, is abuse and will produce bad behaviors.
Click on the title below to see the complete question and answer.
Training
- As Seen On RFD-TV
- Beginner’s Training for Older Equines
- Bolting from Strangers
- Bucking at Canter
- Donkey Twisting Head on Lead Rope
- Hard to Catch, Stiff in the Neck, Ear Shy Mule
- Head Shy, Hard to Catch Donkey
- Herd-bound, Hard to Catch Mule
- Jumping Miniature Equines
- Losing Balance on the Lunge Line
- Riding Issue and Respect
- Mule Spooked at Gate
- Mule Won’t Unload
- Nervous Mini-Mule
- Pulling on Brakes
- Running off in the Drivelines
- Scared of Bikes and ATVs
- Skittish on the Drivelines
- Snacking on the Trail
- The “Herd Leader”
- Trained Mule Regressing at New Home
- Two-strapped Saddle or Not
- A Mule That Lost an Eye
- Saddle With Rear Girth Closer to the Flank
- Using the Elbow Pull to Correct Posture
- Improve Your Riding Without a Coach
- Bitless Bridles, Hackamores and Halters
- How to Worm a Difficult Mule
- How to Stop a Mule From Bolting on the Lead Line
- What to do About Flies and Insects Causing Sores
- What Should I Look for in a Friend for My Donkey
- How Do I Teach My Mule to Stand Still
- Is Using a Muzzle Harmful to My Donkey’s Training
- How Do You Get Your Donkeys to Lunge
- Is Training Donkeys Different From Training Mules and Horses
- What All do I Need to do to Teach My Equines to Drive if I Try to do it Myself
- My Mule has Large Bald Spots. What Could This be From?
- My mule is very nervous about new things. How can I get him to calm down and trust me?
- A couple of questions on the use of Ivermectin?
- I would like to train my mule and my donkey to drive. What kind of harness should I get?
- What can I do so my mules and donkeys can stay fit and be ready to ride in the spring?
- What is different about the Elbow Pull?
Training
As Seen On RFD-TV
Question: The reason I am writing this is because I am very disturbed about something I saw on a mule training show aired by RFDTV. I realize you must be very busy and you may not be able to do anything about it, but I just feel like I need to bring it to your attention. I don’t own mules but I do own three horses, and I watch your show because I like the fact the you use gentle and resistant free training methods and I am glad people like you are trying to educate people on this type of training.
Last Wednesday, January 16, RFDTV aired a “Rural Heritage Horse Hour”, which was a show about these two men and how they train mules. What these two men did to mules to “train” them to pull a cart just broke my heart and I know it would break yours also, because their methods go against everything you stand for.
In case you aren’t able to view the shows, let me explain what I saw on this show. Through the whole show I was in total disbelief at what I was seeing.
It starts out with 2 mules in a large stall and one of the men trying to catch one of them. Right away it became very apparent these mules have had very little handling and wanted nothing to do with these men. When one was finally caught it was tied up so they could catch the other one.
They then brought one of them out to a metal chute, which was just wide enough for the mule to fit in, they attached a chain to the halter, put a chain behind the mule, and to my disbelief a chain over the mules back, (this they said was for the mules safety so it couldn’t rear up and go over backwards).
They also made the comment that if the mule tries to lay down they put a chain under the mules belly. The poor mule is standing there absolutely scared to death. They made a point of bringing this to your attention by pointing out that the mules back is all hunched up because he is scared. (Who wouldn’t be)! Then they put a twitch on the mule so they could get the bit in his mouth and the bridle on.
Then they put the harness on the mule, the whole time you could tell the poor mule was terrified. At one point in the show they zoomed down to the mules hind legs, which were trembling and not even touching the ground, the mule was sitting on the butt chain.
All the while the men were making comments about how you have to be careful around these animals because they will hurt you and hurt you bad! Now that they have the harness on the mule they take it out of the chute and are going to show how they “train” the mule to lead.
Once again I am shocked to see that they are going to chain it to a tractor! They drive around and around and the mule has no choice but to follow. They stop and leave the mule tied to the tractor while they bring out the second mule and proceed to put the harness on it the same way.
Then they bring that mule and tie it to the tractor also and “lead” both of them. Now it’s time to “train” them to pull a cart. They tie them both to a pole and hook them up to a two wheeled cart. While trying to approach one of the mules to hook it up, it side stepped and fell over the tongue of the cart, landing on his back and struggles to get up, with the tongue on his one side and the other mule on his other side. At this time the men just stood there and one made the comment that the mules do get “skinned” up once in awhile and then chuckles.
They now have the mules hooked up, they tie them back to the tractor, the other man gets on the cart and the cart also has a large tractor tire tied to the back of it. They said you need to have enough weight attached so they cant run off, but not too heavy that they can’t pull it. They go around the ring a few times then to my shock they take them down to the highway and drive up and down the highway, so the mules can get used to traffic noise!!
Then they bring them back up to the pen go around a few more times and decide it’s time to have lunch. They leave the mules tied to the tractor while they are gone! When they come back they untie them from the tractor, attach another tractor tire to the cart, to ensure they don’t run off and now they are going to teach them to drive.
Did I mention that they work these mules for at least 8 hours in one day, they say you have to “wear them down” to get them to learn. Through the whole show they would make comments like, “you have to show them who’s boss”, or “you have to hurt them before they hurt you”. I wonder how many of these mules don’t survive their training lessons? I shudder to think. This was part one of an apparent series of shows.
The whole time I was watching this I kept wondering what Meredith would be thinking if she were to see this. I have also sent an email to RFDTV about my concerns. These so called training techniques are cruel, and dangerous for both mule and trainer.
I feel there is no reason to air shows like this, when there are so many other trainers out there, such as yourself, who are showing people that you can train mules and horses in a safe and gentle manner and get much better results. I can’t believe these mules are going to be very safe to be around after this type of training.
I guess that I am hoping that by bringing this to your attention you may have more influence on RFDTV then I would. Perhaps you or other people could convince RFDTV that this is not the type of training shows that should be aired. Mules and horses and even other people wanting to learn to train deserve better training shows than this.
Thank you for letting me express my concerns.
Answer: This is dangerous information to be made so readily available to the public and the error of these people’s ways needs to be exposed!
Mules and donkeys are the most fair and loving creatures in the world and it is people like this who give them a bad name! But more than that, they put newcomers to the industry at risk. These animals who are trained like this may give the appearance of being broke, but these are the same animals you hear about later that have caused a wreck during a parade, or some other kind of accident. It’s no accident that these animals wind up unreliable in stressful situations.
Animals that are trained to fear are never calm and confident though they can appear to be. It is better to train with a program that lets them learn in a step by step progression that helps them to grow in a healthy manner both physically and mentally. Our program does this, as you well know. The training is totally resistance-free and the result is a confident, obedient, affectionate and reliable companion.
Beginner’s Training for Older Equines
Question: Meredith, what beginner‘s training video would you recommend? We’ve corresponded before and I am ready to tackle her training but don’t know where to begin. She is halter broken and leads well. She allows me to brush her and clean her hooves being ground tied. Very sweet.
She is six and trusts me. Comes to me to be loved on…grooms me occasionally. I can touch her and rub her all over. But she shies and backs away from strangers. My goal is for Cricket to allow my grandchildren and adults to approach her and pet her like she does me. We bought her for this reason: therapy mini. Is this realistic?
I don’t know where or how to begin. I’ve watched your YouTube videos and learned quite a bit. Thank you, T.
Answer: It was good of you to take the time to write. You should start with discs #1, #8 and #9 from my DVD series, Training Mules and Donkeys. It isn’t so much about teaching things as it is about building relationships. That is why it is so important to spend adequate time on ground work training. They can learn “things” rather quickly, but it takes time to build a relationship. The information below will clarify what I mean.
No matter how old or how well trained your animal, he needs time to do the simplest of things to get to know you before he will learn to trust and have confidence in you. Just as our children need routine and ongoing learning while they are growing up, so do mules and all other equines. They need clearly outlined boundaries for their behavior in order to minimize anxiety which can lead to inappropriate behavior. The time together during leading training and going forward through lunging and ground driving builds a good, solid relationship with your equine and fosters his confidence and trust in you because you help him to feel good.
Leading training is done for a full year to not only get your animal to learn to lead and so you can develop a good relationship with him, but also to develop good posture and core muscle strength in preparation for the time when you will ride or drive him. Even an older equine with previous training still needs leading training for optimum performance and longevity. During the time you do the leading-training strengthening exercises, you should NOT ride or drive your animal, as this will inhibit the success of the exercises. (If you ride while you do these exercises, it will not result in positive habitual behavior and a new way of going.) The lessons need to be routine and done in good posture to acquire the correct results. You are building new habits in your equine’s way of moving and the only way that that can happen is through a specific routine, consistency in that routine and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Because these exercises require that you are also in good posture, you too will reap the benefits of this regimen. Interacting with longears is most definitely good therapy if you are willing to do the right kinds of things while you are with them, and once they are fully trained (and you have learned how to manage them), they can be very good therapy for others as well.
Bolting from Strangers
Question: I know you have covered “flighty mules.” I have worked enough with my mule that I am able to do practically anything with him. He is still somewhat green under saddle but is doing very well. My problem is, whenever my fiance or a stranger walks up to him, he backs up and bolts away, which, of course, I let go. Now, is the only way to fix this to have the person or numerous strangers work with him? What specifically should I have them do? I am the only one training him, but he can’t be bolting away every time someone else walks up to him, especially when I want to show him and go on trail with him. Please help!
Answer: It sounds to me as if you have gone through the leading training too fast. In the leading training, you build their confidence and they learn to have trust in you. If you have employed the reward system (crimped oats rewards) and are feeding as we recommend, they don’t usually bolt and run from strangers. Rather, they learn to wait and look to you for guidance. In order for this to occur and for them to build good core muscle strength, you need to practice these exercises diligently for six to nine months on the flatwork, and another six to nine months on the obstacles. You do this in good posture, matching your steps with theirs, while in good posture yourself. Take things in small steps, and wait for them to master a couple of steps before adding any new ones. When you take the time to do this at this stage, and then move through lunging and ground driving with the same things in mind, they do form a more solid bond with you and will learn to stop and think, rather than bolt and run.
Bucking at Canter
Question:
I just recently got a Molly mule. She is 7 years old and has only been ridden a few times and she does fine. I was told she will walk and trot all day, but when you ask her to canter she will buck. Do you have any advice on how to train her in the future to avoid that behavior? I am not a person that wants to canter a lot, but if it happened I would not want the bucking to start. Thanks, J. M.
Answer:
A mule that bucks to align its spine is similar to you twisting your own body when your back gets out of whack. It isn’t the only reason for a mule’s bucking, but it is one of many reasons for bucking. Other reasons include insufficient training to build up the body correctly for equine activities, ill-fitting tack, an unbalanced rider, the saddle slipping too far forward (failure to use a crupper), confusing signals from the rider, pulling too hard on the reins and soreness from an injury, just to name a few. It sounds as if this mule cannot balance the rider at the canter due to insufficient muscle strength. Also, the tack may not fit well, particularly the saddle, which may not be placed in the correct position on the mule’s back and held in position with a crupper. I would go back to the beginning with leading training to build core muscle strength and forget about riding her for a while. If you go through the logical progressions of exercises that are outlined in my training series, she will soon be in good enough condition to carry a rider efficiently and the bucking will cease.
Donkey Twisting Head on Lead Rope
Question: My donkey will lead really well most of the time, but sometimes he will twist his head, turn away from me and drag me to the point where I have to let go of the lead rope. How do I stop this behavior?
Answer: Showmanship training is not just for the showmanship class at a show. Perfecting your showmanship technique every time you have your equine on a lead line will command your equine’s attention to detail, build his confidence in you and ensure that he is strengthening his muscles properly throughout his body at a fundamental level.
Just as a baby has to learn to crawl before he can walk, your equine needs to learn to walk at your shoulder in nice straight lines with his balance equally distributed over all four feet, so that when you ask for a halt or a turn he is able to do it easily, without a loss of balance. Be conscious of your own body position when practicing. When preparing to walk off, make sure you hold the lead in your left hand, face squarely forward, extend your right arm straight forward, give the command to “Walk on,” and take a few steps forward. Make sure you walk straight forward in order to give your equine a lead to follow that is definite and not wobbly.
When you ask for a halt, stop with your weight balanced equally on both feet (still facing forward), hesitate for a second or two and turn to face your equine’s shoulder. If his legs are already square, you can then give the crimped oats reward for stopping. If they are not, take a moment to square up the legs and then give the reward. Praise him for standing quietly for a few seconds to allow him to settle. You can then turn back to your forward position, put your right arm forward again, give the command to “Walk on,” and proceed a few more steps before halting again. Each time he complies, you can add more steps before halting. When you practice the turn, he should always be turned away from you to the right, never into you while you are on the left side!
When executing the turns, ask your equine to take one step forward with the right front foot then cross the left front foot over the right to make the turn. Your own legs should execute the turn the same way, again giving your equine a good example to follow. Turns to the left should be schooled to develop the muscles equally on both sides. To do this, just change sides and execute the leading, halting and turning from the other side with the lead now held in your right hand with your left arm extended. Repeat the exact same exercise, but now from this position (though you will rarely have occasion to actually lead from this side). Be sure to dispense rewards only when he is settled and has done what you ask.
Paying attention to this kind of detail will greatly improve your animal’s conditioning, his balance and his attention to your commands over time. Equines will learn EXACTLY what you teach and will be only as meticulous as you are. Lead your animal this way every time you have him on the lead to build good habits, facilitate good posture and to give him the few seconds before each move to prepare for what comes next. The result is a relaxed, compliant and confident companion!
Hard to Catch, Stiff in the Neck, Ear Shy Mule
Question: I raised and started Quarter Horses for a long time. I have patience and respect for animals. I know nothing about training mules. I have had this mule (June) for two weeks. The former owner had her for 10 years. She rides good and neck reins, has a good stop and will back. She has several issues I need to work on.
1. Hard to catch: I started yesterday with the plain walking up to her with the halter in the round pen. When I get her caught, I take her straight to the stall where there is half of her feed and tie her ‘til she eats. I will do this twice a day hoping this will help.
2. She won’t give me her head: VERY stiff in the neck. When I ask for her head, she moves her back & her rear in the opposite direction. I have always been successful doing this with horses. Can I hobble her to keep her from moving and try to get her to flex?
3. Ear shy: Have to bridle like a halter. I rub her head toward her ears and then retreat before she moves her head and can, after a while, rub her ears, but I know I couldn’t get a bridle over her head. I am making progress and hope to someday bridle her without unbuckling the bridle.
Do you have any DVDs on these problems? Or any suggestions?
Thanks,
J. B.
Answer: There really are no effective and safe quick fixes for bad behaviors. They are the result of what I call “fragmented” training. Mules and donkeys need to be raised and trained much like children as they are growing up, or even when they are just getting used to new owners. They need to learn over time just what is expected of them in a way that is non-threatening, yet defines limits. No matter how old or how well-trained the animal, they need time doing the simplest of things to get to know you before they will learn to trust and have confidence in you. Just as our children need routine and ongoing learning while they are growing up, so do mules and all other equines. They need boundaries for their behavior clearly outlined to minimize anxious behaviors and inappropriate behavior. The time together during leading training and going forward builds a good, solid relationship with your equine and fosters their confidence and trust in you because you help them to feel good.
Head Shy, Hard to Catch Donkey
Question: A couple weeks ago, I took on a project donkey. Someone I know had a 30-year-old Arab and this donkey. He’s 12 hands, and nine years old. I’m aware donkeys are happiest with other donkeys, but he’s been a lone donkey his whole life and at this point, I’m just trying to help THIS guy. His pasture buddy died suddenly, leaving him alone. Within two days, I was there to pick him up. At nine years old, he had never had his feet done and also had not been beyond his fence lines. You can guess how long it took to get him to just MOVE outside of the pasture, get him loaded, get him to my place and unloaded, and into the barn. I have him in with a pony and a mini. He and the pony are really bonding….they’re quite good buddies. But the donkey is NOT happy with me. After all, everything in his world changed, and I was there for all of these transitions. I am trying with treats. Eventually, I can usually walk up to him, but I have to crouch to his level, not maintain eye contact, and let him know I have something for him. Once he gets the treat, I scratch him and rub him and he stands for it as long as I don’t go near his head. I’m giving him lovins’, then just walking away. Letting him know, for now, I don’t expect anything from him except taking treats, scratches and rubs. I want him to quit walking away from me, and seeing me as a threat with a lead rope.
There has been no lead rope in sight for him. He also, within a couple days, had his feet done by my natural farrier. They had never been trimmed and were cracked, peeled, curled up, broke off, and once the adrenaline from the move wore off, he was horribly lame. So that trim happened with sedation and he was wonderful. Trying to make every experience a good one for him, but his feet were a requirement, so I took a short cut there with the sedative. I’d just like to know that I’m doing everything right, or that there may be something I should be doing differently. Thank you!
Answer: I fear that your natural farrier may have cut too much off his hooves all at once. When they founder, their feet get like that and need to be SLOWLY trimmed back over a long period of time or they will become awfully lame, as you describe, and you will not be able to get the hoof to grow back properly. I can only hope that he did not take off too much all at once, but if the donkey went lame, he probably did and I would look for another more qualified farrier who may be able to fix any damage that might have been done. The information below should help you with further management. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me. That is what I am here for.
No matter how old or how well trained the equine, he still needs time doing the simplest of things to get to know you before he will learn to trust and have confidence in you. The exercises that you do should build his body slowly, sequentially and in good equine posture. Just as our children need routine, ongoing learning and the right kind of exercise while they are growing up, so do equines. They need clearly outlined boundaries in order to minimize anxious and inappropriate behaviors. Also, the exercises you do together need to build your equine’s strength and coordination in good equine posture. The time spent together during leading training and going forward builds a good, solid relationship with your equine and fosters his confidence and trust in you because you actually help him to feel physically better. A carefully planned routine and an appropriate feeding program are both critical to healthy development.
At Lucky Three Ranch, we do leading training for a full year not only to get our equines to learn to lead and to develop a good relationship with them, but also to make sure they develop good posture and core muscle strength in preparation for carrying a rider. Even an older equine with previous training still needs this training for optimum performance and longevity. During the time that you do the leading training strengthening exercises, you should NOT ride your animal, as this will inhibit the success of the preliminary exercises. If you ride while you do these exercises, it will not result in the same proper muscle conditioning, habitual behavior and new way of moving. The lessons need to be routine and done in good posture to acquire the correct results. You are building new habits in your equine’s way of moving and the only way that change can take place is through routine, consistency in the routine, and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Since this also requires that you be in good posture as well, your body will also reap the benefits of this regimen.
Today’s general horse training techniques do not usually work well with mules and donkeys. Most horse training techniques used today speed up the training process so people can ride sooner, which can make a trainer’s techniques seem more attractive, but most of these techniques do not adequately prepare the equine physically in good posture for the added stress of a rider on his back. Mules and donkeys have a very strong sense of self-preservation and need work that builds their bodies properly so they will feel good in their new and correct posture, or you won’t get the kind of results you might expect. Forming a good relationship with your equine begins with a consistent maintenance routine and appropriate groundwork. Most equines don’t usually get the well-structured and extended groundwork training on the lead rope that paves the way to good balance, core muscle conditioning and a willing attitude, but it is essential if he is truly expected to be physically and mentally prepared for future equine activities. (With donkeys and mules, this is of especially critical importance.)
Response: Thank you for all of the great information! Having had donkeys before, everything I read here is right on. They aren’t the kind of animal that you can send off to a trainer….they need to bond with their person! And asking things of them is often much more difficult than asking a horse.
I, too, was a bit concerned when I saw how much he was taking off. I thought it would take several visits to slowly get those feet where they needed to be. Webster walked off like nothing, but was a bit sore the next morning. Now, he’s running and bucking around after his buddy, Merlin. They enjoy playing together. He’s definitely growing on me, and fast.
I will read, and reread, your info here several times. I also used to be a member of ADMS, and have several of their older membership magazines here still. Thank you SO much for taking the time to respond. I believe I saw you on RFD-TV, a Training Mules and Donkeys show, and I was intrigued by it. So I knew you were the person to go to!
Thank you….from me and Webster, also.
Herd-bound, Hard to Catch Mule
Question: My mule is hard to catch and will not leave his pasture mates easily. When we try to ride off, he wants to turn and go back to the barn. What do I do?
Answer: Many people think their animals are “herd bound” when really they just enjoy the company of their “friends” as anyone would. Your task is to become as good a friend to your mule as his equine friends. The first step is to allow him to have his equine friends. Don’t separate him unless he is a new animal who needs to get acquainted with the others “over the fence” before you actually turn them in together.
When the animals are together, start slowly. When you go to catch your mule, always wait for him to come to you. Show him a reward of crimped oats to encourage him. If other animals in the pen come first, halter them, take them out of the pen and tie them off to the side, or run them into another area. Then, go back to the gate and ask your mule to come to you. Do not go after him. It must be his idea to come to you.
Introduce yourself to the animal by doing short training sessions (20-40 minutes) every other day. Begin with very simple ground work and keep your expectations and communication clear and consistent. Even if your mule is already fully broke, going back to initial ground lessons will help the two of you create a secure bond that will eventually decrease his need to be with the other animals. Eventually he will find a “more interesting” friend in you-one who finds all kinds of fun things to do besides just grazing! Remember to be patient and take the time for this relationship to blossom. You can’t make a good friend overnight. When you finally do get to the stage of riding, your mule will have the confidence to leave his friends, and he’ll be perfectly happy to spend that time with you!
Jumping Miniature Equines
Question: We have previously watched you show miniature donkeys and know your expertise is much respected. We have never shown here in Minnesota, but last year sold two foals to a lady who has been successfully teaching them tricks. She is wondering at what age can they start jumping? I know some weight-bearing activities should not be done until two to three years of age.
Answer: Like human athletes, all equine athletes need to be prepared properly with feed and exercise over a long period of time for the activities they will be doing. The information below will explain the steps. Jumping is an advanced thing and should not be done until much later in their training program. In addition to the information given here, I would suggest that you read my series of articles about minis, titled “Getting Down with Minis,” available on our website.
Although we begin our DVD series with Foal Training, you should always begin training with imprinting, no matter how old, and move forward from there with attention to feed as well. This will ensure a positive introduction and will help to build a good relationship with your mule or donkey. Our methods are meant to be done in a sequence and taking shortcuts or changing our method in some way will not yield the same results.
Losing Balance on the Lunge Line
Question: Our Friesians pull on the lunge line and lose balance at canter and sometimes at trot. I saw your post about them learning core strength and finding balance. Can you let me know what I need to consider getting from your program, so I can begin to condition them to help them have better balance?
Answer: I LOVE Friesians! Although I learned many important training techniques from my longears, when I applied these techniques to my horses, I got the same amazing results! I realized that it is really just a matter of changing one’s perception. Instead of focusing on just doing movements or “things,” it is important to focus on building the equine body in a slow and easy way, beginning with more work on the lead line, lunging and ground driving in order to prepare the equine for his task of riding or driving. This has made all the difference in the world, and all my equines now exhibit good posture, confidence, self-carriage and strength in good posture that can only be attained by a slow, logical and sequential process.
Once your equine is exhibiting self-carriage after leading training and he is able to balance on a circle in the round pen, you can teach lunge line training. Remember that you must always teach lunge line training in the round pen before you teach it in an open area.
Riding Issues and Respect
Question: I just recently bought a 7-year-old gelded mule. I have had horses my whole life and been riding my whole life. My mule was amazing when I first rode him before I bought him, and even the multiple times I rode him before I brought him home. Since I brought him home though, he does not want to leave my other mares. When I take him out of the barn, I have trouble getting him to come willingly. He gives me such trouble when riding because he just wants to go back to the horses. I read up on mules and training them before I bought him so I wasn’t completely lost. I do know enough to realize that he does not respect me and I am working on that, but I don’t know what to do about the riding problems. Anything you can tell me would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: To start an equine properly in the bridle, it is important to maintain the integrity of the direct rein contact of the Eggbutt snaffle bit for ultimate communication. That means when you pull the right rein, the animal’s head moves to the right, and when you pull left, the animal’s head moves to the left. When you pull back, the equine goes back and when you release, they can go forward. The equine feels the vibration of the reins in the corners of his mouth, and as he learns what you want, he will respond to less pressure each time he is schooled. Pretend that your reins are made from thread that can break if you pull too hard. This is how we get equines to be “light” in the bridle. Curb bits are fine for an equine that has had good basic training because they have learned to “follow your seat.” Then you can hold both reins in one hand. This is true “neck-reining.” Many people believe that if an animal is not complying that they just need a stronger bit. The truth is the rider needs to address his own riding practices and learn how to “cooperate” with the animal instead of trying to “control” him. Bosals, bitless bridles, side pulls, and anything other than a snaffle bit (that works from the corners of the lips) will not allow the best communication with your equine. These devices can cause resistance problems as you try to balance your equine’s body when riding or driving. The information below will explain the sequence that training should take for the best results. You will need to be patient and willing to restart this mule the right way from the beginning. You will find him a lot more cooperative if you do.
Although we begin our DVD series with “Foal Training,” no matter how old, you should always begin training with imprinting and move forward from there with attention to feed as well. This will ensure a positive introduction and will help to build a good relationship with your mule. Our methods are meant to be done in a sequence, and taking shortcuts or changing our method in some way will not yield the same results. After many years of training for other people, I have found that equines, especially mules and donkeys, bond to the person who trains them. When they go away to other people, they do not get the benefit of this bonding and can become resistant over time when they return home. After all, you wouldn’t ask someone else to go out and make a friend for you, would you? This is the primary reason I put my entire training program in books and videos, in a natural order like grade school is for children, for people to use as a resistance-free correspondence training course instead of doing clinics and seminars. People are encouraged to use the series and to contact me via mail, email or telephone for answers to any questions. This way your questions can be answered promptly. But bonding is not the only consideration. In order to move correctly, they must also be fed and trained correctly.
Mule Spooked at Gate
Question: The other day when I was leading my mule through the gate of the pasture, he spooked and practically ran over me! Then, when he got to the other side, before I even had a chance to close the gate, he jerked the rope out of my hand and ran off! How do I stop this?
Answer: Going through a gate seems simple enough, but you can really get into trouble if you don’t do it correctly. Ask your mule to follow your shoulder to the gate and halt squarely then reward him with crimped oats for standing quietly while you unlatch the gate.
When going through the gate, whenever possible, push the gate away from you and your mule. Transfer your lead line from your left hand (showmanship position) to your right hand and open the gate with your left hand if the gate is hinged on the left (switch positions if the gate is hinged on the right, but be sure to keep your body closest to the gate).
Ask your mule to walk through at your shoulder, to turn and face you on the other side of the gate and to follow you as you close it. Then reward him again and latch the gate. After latching the gate, turn back to your mule and reward him yet again for being patient and standing still while you latched the gate.
This repetitive behavior through gates will teach him to stay with you and wait patiently instead of charging through or pulling away from you. This is especially helpful when you are leading several animals at once. Even if the gate is only two mules wide, you could lead as many as four through by simply lengthening the lead lines of the back pair, asking the first pair to come through first and turn then encouraging the second pair to come through. When trained this way, they will all line up like little soldiers on the other side of the gait and receive their rewards. They will stand quietly while you latch the gate and will proceed from the gate only when you ask.
When you return your mule to a pen with other animals, wave the others away from the gate and return to the pen the same way we described. Do not vary this routine. The repetition will build good habits! Once the others have learned that they cannot approach when you wave them away and each mule knows the routine of going though the gate properly, you can take one animal from the herd by calling his name and waving the others away. Open the gate and allow him to come through and turn (receiving his reward, of course!) then put on the halter. You never have to get in the middle of their sometimes dangerous playfulness again, and your animals will all be easy to catch!
Mule Won’t Unload
Question: Just got your Training Mules and Donkeys book and I LOVE IT!! I wish I bought it sooner!! Your resources and website are now my official ‘go-to’ place for mule education.
I’m hoping you can help me, I’m completely stumped and don’t know what to do.
I have a yearling molly haflinger mule who recently developed the opinion that she doesn’t want to unload out of the trailer. I say ‘recently’ because all trailer loading practice prior to ‘that day’ was fine…no issue whatsoever. In fact, we’d play hopping in and out just for fun without her halter on. She has NEVER had a bad experience loading or unloading, so I don’t know where this resistance is coming from. She is completely happy and compliant in all other ground work exercises, crossing poles, logs, tarps, bridges, you name it. It took me almost 2 hours to get her out. I went really slow, didn’t rush her, but I haven’t loaded her back up since I can’t identify what the problem is. She does enjoy playing games, so maybe that was comical to her, but I’m not sure if there is an underlying issue. Before I load her up again, I really want to be sure I handle the situation correctly. We hit the trails several times a month, so she has lots of trailer rides in her future. Naturally, I haven’t been able to find much information on ‘unloading’ challenges so I’m stumped.
Answer: It sounds like you have been rewarding for getting into the trailer (and through all other obstacles) very consistently, as you should, but have you been rewarding for coming out? Every single time and the instant she hits the ground? Sounds like she thinks the only way she will be rewarded is if she is IN the trailer! Even though it took two hours to get her out, I think you did exactly the right thing in taking your time!
Nervous Mini-Mule
Question: My husband and I recently (two months ago) purchased a Shetland and her foal. Her foal is the offspring of a Mini-Donkey. So I believe the baby would be called a Mini-Mule. I have just recently began to work with her and she is so nervous. She jumps and runs at the slightest noise or quick movement. I would appreciate any advice you can give on training her. Or if you would recommend specific videos or DVDs I would appreciate your input.
Thanks.
Answer: No matter what size, how old or how well-trained the equine, they need time doing the simplest of things to get to know you before they will learn to trust and have confidence in you. Just as our children need routine and ongoing learning while they are growing up, so do mules and all other equines. They need boundaries for their behavior clearly outlined to minimize anxious and inappropriate behaviors. The time together during leading training (and going forward) builds a good solid relationship with your equine and fosters their confidence and trust in you because you help them to feel good.
I do leading training for a full year to not only get them to learn to lead and to develop a good relationship with them, but also to develop good posture and core muscle strength in preparation for driving or for a rider. Even an older equine with previous training still needs this for optimum performance and longevity. During the time you do the leading training strengthening exercises, you should NOT ride or drive your animal. If you ride or drive while you do these exercises, it will not result in habitual behavior and a new way of going, and will inhibit the success of the exercises. The lessons need to be routine, rewarded and done in good posture to acquire the correct results. We are building NEW habits in their way of moving, and the only way that there can be change is through routine, consistency in the routine and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Since this also requires that you be in good posture as well, you will also reap the benefits from this regimen. The result will be many years to really enjoy each other’s company! My Training Mules and Donkeys DVDs and books can help you to achieve your goals!
Pulling on Brakes
Question: I bought a team of little mules at a auction. 1 molly mule 4 year 600lb. and 1 john mule 1.5 year old 500 lb.. We only work to wagon. They have yet to jump at anything on the road, cars, etc. The molly mule always wants to keep pulling and can never seemed to get relaxed and just walk along without pulling and the drive lines heavy which as her mouth sore. It seems to be when the brakes are applied to the wagon she wants to just pull harder. I have had them a month now and yesterday was the first time she bucked twice in the harness hooked to wagon. Don’t know what kind of life they had before me. I don’t beat a mule to teach them, but very gentle with them and don’t raise my voice. I have broke a couple of mules to ride and work. But I am at my wit’s end on the little mule. Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Answer: It sounds as if you have not given this mule adequate time to learn about things with groundwork before actually hitching her to the wagon. She will need to go back to leading training and then go through all the stages of groundwork before hitching her up again or the problem you are having will only escalate. Here is information that will explain why this is important and how to do it:
No matter how old or how well trained the animal, they need time doing the simplest of things to get to know you before they will learn to trust and have confidence in you. Just as our children need routine and ongoing learning while they are growing up so do mules and all other equines. They need boundaries for their behavior clearly outlined to minimize anxious behaviors and inappropriate behavior. The time together during leading training and going forward builds a good solid relationship with your equine and fosters their confidence and trust in you because you help them to feel good.
We do leading training for a full year to not only get them to learn to lead and to develop a good relationship with them, but also to develop good posture and core muscle strength in preparation for the rider. Even an older equine with previous training would still need this for optimum performance and longevity. During the time you do the leading training strengthening exercises, you should NOT ride the animal as this will inhibit the success of the exercises. If you ride while you do these exercises, it will not result in habitual behavior and a new way of going. The lessons need to be routine and done in good posture to acquire the correct results. We are building NEW habits in their way of moving and the only way that can change is through routine, consistency in the routine and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Since this also requires that you be in good posture as well, you will also reap the benefits from this regimen.
Horse training techniques do not generally work well with mules and donkeys. They’re too smart. Most horse training techniques used today speed up the training process so people can ride sooner and it makes the trainers’ techniques more attractive, but most of these techniques do not adequately prepare the equine physically for the added stress of a rider on his back. Mules and donkeys have a very strong sense of self preservation and need work that builds their bodies properly so they feel good or you just don’t get the results you might expect. Forming a good relationship with your donkey or mule starts with a consistent maintenance routine and appropriate groundwork. Most equines don’t usually get the well-structured and extended groundwork training on the lead rope that paves the way to good core muscle conditioning and a willing attitude. This is essential if they are truly expected to be physically and mentally prepared for future equine activities. With donkeys and mules, this is very important. Even Pat Parelli will tell you that mules must be treated the way horses should be treated.
Running off in the Drivelines
Question: My mule is running off in the drivelines. What do I do to make her stop?
Answer: First, I have, over time, come to appreciate the fact that different equines have different personality types. It does seem that a general rule applies: the larger the animal, the more docile the personality. I’ve also learned that when a donkey or mule has a tendency to bolt and run, it’s typically because they don’t agree with what you’re trying to do, or how you are trying to do it. It is ALWAYS the handler’s fault!
I have a mule that is acting the same way. She will allow me to walk beside her and drive her that way, but if I get too far behind her, she’ll run off. I have had to deal with this problem with a few mules and donkeys in the past. What I do is continue to walk beside her and gradually lengthen the distance one inch at a time until she has accepted the drivelines correctly–no matter how long it takes. I will work her no more than 20 to 40 minutes every other day. I will make sure she gets her treats for “Whoa” and “Back.” I will do a lot of “Back” while still close in to her and repeat “Back” frequently at every increased or decreased distance behind her, and I will keep things at a very slow walk until I feel her relaxation through the drivelines (not a trace of pull). I will always be calm and slow around her, willing to take all the time in the world if necessary. I will constantly review the lessons in showmanship in DVD #1, DVD #8 and DVD #9, going to and from the work areas, and during any ground interaction to help her really, truly bond to me on a very personal level. I will treat her as my very favorite. (I actually treat them all this way anyway, but sometimes there are those who are less confident and need this extra moral support.)
These types of personalities simply take much longer to come around, but with great patience, kindness, trust and respect, they eventually do. I just wouldn’t necessarily use them for driving, but they can be very good under saddle. In fact, once they do bond more strongly with you and look to you as their “Protector,” they are the ones who will have more “Go” and thus, more athletic aptitude and ability. Figuring out what kinds of things they like to do naturally also helps.
I have dealt with many animals that were the same way, and I know it takes tremendous patience, but I also know they can come around. You might just need to back up and do things even more slowly and more meticulously than you ever thought you needed to, but you should get positive results if you do. Lower your expectations of her for a while, and try to have more fun with the basics.
When she does bolt, never hang on to the reins, lead, or drivelines. Just let go of her if you are on the ground or let them loose if she bolts under saddle. Just make sure you work in areas that are adequately and safely fenced, so you can catch her easily again. Whether on the lead line, in the drivelines or under saddle, once she realizes that you aren’t going to play “tug-o-war,” that she will get a reward for staying, and it is a waste of her energy to keep running, she will do it less and less.
Scared of Bikes and ATVs
Question: I purchased a 13 yr molly mule last May. She is beautiful and a joy to ride, but she is really scared of bikes and ATVs. I ponied her around our area, which is full of the above-mentioned offenders, and she makes sure the horse is between her and them. On different trails where we have encountered bikes in the past, she is nervous always looking behind her. I would like to ride her by herself, but I am worried we will encounter the evil things. Any suggestions as to how I can help her conquer her fears (and mine)?
Answer: I would suggest going back to the beginning and perfect your groundwork with this mule before you do any more riding.
Most people are in such a hurry to ride that they either completely overlook, or rush through groundwork. Groundwork training is probably the most important part of your equine’s training. It sets the stage for your equine’s physical ability, mental processing and emotional stability. Equines are born with natural instincts (i.e., flight, kicking, biting, etc.) as a response to fear. When groundwork exercises are done correctly, their physical structure and natural instincts can be modified and refocused to produce an animal that is confident, trusting and obedient to your requests. When you take adequate time and pay close attention to good posture during leading training, core muscles that support the bony columns become strong, and movements that are required become easier for the animal to do. When it is easier, there is less stress and frustration between you. When he is afforded time to process what you ask, the occurrence of anxiety and fear is practically non-existent because this approach prompts thought rather than an instinctually quick response to any situation. He will learn to think before he acts.
Emotionally, he begins to see that you have his best interest at heart and this fosters mutual trust and cooperation. It is a common misconception that you can desensitize animals to particular “things” such as ATVs, bicycles, etc. If you really want to have a calm and safe partner, you would teach them a way to handle their fear in ANY situation by teaching them to look to you first for support and direction. Extensive groundwork exercises can do this. Then if they see anything that bothers them, they will stop, look to you and listen! Does this sound a lot like raising children…well, it is!
Skittish on the Drivelines
Question: My mule will do all the obstacles easily on the lead rope and most of the time when I am riding him, but he won’t do it on the drivelines without getting skittish and weaving. What should I do?
Answer: When doing obstacles on the lead line, keep in mind that you are not only teaching the animal to negotiate an obstacle, but you are also conditioning the muscles closest to the bone, teaching balance, coordination and control as well.
If your mule doesn’t approach the obstacle easily, do not withhold the reward until they actually negotiate the bridge, tarp, ground poles, or whatever. Lower your expectations and go back to your lead line training. Walk to the end of your lead line, hold it taut and wait for the mule to step towards you. When he does, give him a reward (crimped oats) and tell him how brave he is being and praise him for it. Let him settle, then walk to the end of the lead line again getting even closer to the obstacle and repeat the same way. When you reach the obstacle, step up onto the bridge, or over the first ground rail and ask again. Stop him if he tries to run through, or over the obstacle, and reward him for standing with front feet into the obstacle. You might even want to back him up and reward for that before proceeding forward. Then go away from the obstacle and come back, putting all four feet into the obstacle. Repeat this procedure yet again and ask him to negotiate the entire obstacle slowly and in control. Breaking the obstacle down into small steps like this will facilitate control and keep your mule’s attention on you.
After he is more willing to come through the obstacle, you can regain your showmanship position with your left hand carrying the lead line and your right arm extended in front of you pointing to the direction you are going. When the mule is finally listening and will follow your shoulder over or through the obstacle, stop or back at any point during the negotiation of the obstacle, you can then turn your attention to whether he is actually traveling forward and backing in a straight line and whether he is stopping squarely. How he negotiates the obstacle will have a direct bearing on how his muscles are conditioned and how his balance and coordination develop, so don’t be afraid to ask for more perfection! Do this the same way first on the lead line, then in the drivelines and lastly, under saddle.
Snacking on the Trail
Question:I got my molly (my first mule) from an outstanding mule trainer and she has been the safest trail ride I have ever had, very responsive, not reactive, and points out every possible danger to me whether it is a cloud of bees, deer, hunters, etc. Since she was trained for arena and showing I think this common sense is remarkable. But she has one fault that I need help correcting. She snacks during trail rides, pulling at grass and tall weeds, etc. She does not stop to do this, but it is very distracting and makes the ride unpleasant. After last fall’s riding season ended I found myself with shoulder issues due to my corrections via reins. I have just finished physical therapy to fix my shoulder and so I would like to find a solution that will retrain her without stress to either one of us. Our trails are narrow with steep drop-offs that prevent circling or other maneuvers that might be useful when correcting on the flat. Thanks for any help.
Answer: Although we begin our DVD series with “Foal Training,” you should always begin training with imprinting—no matter how old your equine is—and move forward from there with attention to feed as well. This will ensure a positive introduction and will help to build a good relationship with your mule. This is how they learn to bond and have respect for you and vice versa. If you do our beginning imprinting and leading exercises, it will foster more attention from your mule when you do ask her to keep her head up while riding! Our methods are meant to be done in a sequence and taking shortcuts or changing our method in some way will not yield the same results. After many years of training for other people, I have found that equines, especially mules and donkeys, bond to the person who trains them. When they go away to other people, they do not get the benefit of this bonding and can become resistant over time when they return home. After all, you wouldn’t ask someone else to go out and make a friend for you, would you? This is the primary reason. But bonding is not the only consideration. In order to move correctly, they must also be trained correctly. I would suggest spending some time with our leading exercises in order to prevent any more undesirable behaviors from coming up in the future. Meanwhile, if you do not opt for the long term fix and just continue to ride (which you should not be doing during the groundwork exercises), the simplest fix (although NOT long term!) would be to ride in a western saddle, shorten the reins to the point where she cannot reach very far and keep the reins looped over the saddle horn, so if she pulls, you can just lower your hand a little more and let her pull against the saddle horn and not your arms!
The “Herd Leader”
Question: I have had my mule since she was a foal-and she does everything I ask from the ground perfectly. She is not seeing me as the “Herd Leader” (I assume with her being insecure), especially when outside horses are present. She “joins up” with me when I work her in the round pen…we are really bonded. If you can suggest 1 or 2 exercises that would help with this particular issue? I really am at a loss since I have done so much ground work with her!
Answer: This has nothing to do with being a “herd leader.” You learned that from the horse trainers. Mules and donkeys don’t respond well to their methods because they do not take the full health of the equine into consideration. They just teach them to do “things” without making sure that they are physically capable of doing those things. Your mule is insecure, but not in the way you think. She has not had the benefit of a sequential training program that addressed her physical, mental and emotional needs.
For instance, leading training is not just to teach them to lead, but also to condition the muscles that are closest to the bones and vital organs. These muscles can be conditioned only through a very passive series of leading exercises, and you must do them regularly for at least one year to teach the brain to fire to these muscles automatically, which keeps the animal in good posture before moving on to round pen work.
The program needs to be consistent and predictable, and with purpose. Then your animal can relax and learn to keep cool in any situation. I hate to say this but…you may have done ground work, but if it wasn’t with this in mind, then the exercises were not beneficial and you really do need to start over, if you want your mule to feel good and strong and have confidence and trust in you.
Mules will all be friendly with people when it is easy. It’s when things get a little tougher that you find out how well they have actually bonded with you. For instance, if new horses come on the scene and she ceases to pay attention to you, you aren’t as bonded as you might think. There are no quick fixes. However, when they are cared for properly, mules can live into their fifties, so you do have plenty of time to do things in a slow and beneficial way for both you and your mule.
Trained Mule Regressing at New Home
Question: Hi. A week and a half ago, I brought home our first mule! She is 10 and getting along well after an initial break-in across the fence with my two geldings (a horse and small pony). There are many things I really like about her, but after her arrival here, about five days after just letting her be in a stall or pasture, I cross-tied her and she weaved quite persistently. I tried gentle reprimands to re-guide her. Nothing worked.
Later I tried just a single tie. She still was weaving. This molly showed NO EVIDENCE of this previously, and upon calling the previous owner, her response was, “Really?” I’m hoping there is just an acclimation period, and that this molly’s “nervousness” will stop! She has already come up to me in the fence, and I think we’re on our way to a bond. However, I am quite disappointed to see her weave! Is there any hope that this may truly be temporary, due to an acclimation period, etc.???? I had hopes of taking her to shows, trail rides, parades, etc. Now I’m concerned about her ability to “handle” such things. Thank you for your feedback.
Answer: There is no reason this mule can’t work out for you, but you need to be willing to forego any shows, parades, etc. this year and maybe even half of next year so you can build a good relationship with the mule first. She obviously is nervous and that is because she was “hurried” through the training process. The information below will give you the guidelines you need to build a better foundation for activities and will help to build a solid relationship between you! I am here to help along the way with any questions you might have.
No matter how old or how well trained the equine, they still need time doing the simplest of things to get to know you before they will learn to trust and have confidence in you. The exercises that you do should build the body slowly, sequentially and in good equine posture. Just as our children need routine, ongoing learning and the right kind of exercise while they are growing up, so do equines. They need boundaries for their behavior that are clearly outlined to minimize anxious behaviors and inappropriate behavior, and the exercises that you do together need to build their strength and coordination in good equine posture. The time spent together during leading training and going forward builds a good solid relationship with your equine and fosters his or her confidence and trust in you because you actually help your animal to feel physically better. A carefully planned routine and an appropriate feeding program are both critical to healthy development.
We do leading training for a full year to not only get them to learn to lead and to develop a good relationship with them, but also to develop good posture and core muscle strength in preparation for carrying a rider. Even an older equine with previous training would still need this for optimum performance and longevity. During the time you do the leading training strengthening exercises, you should NOT ride your animal, as this will inhibit the success of the preliminary exercises. If you ride while you do these exercises, it will not result in the same proper muscle conditioning, habitual behavior and new way of moving. The lessons need to be routine and done in good posture to acquire the correct results. We are building NEW habits in their way of moving and the only way that can change is through routine, consistency in the routine, and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Since this requires that you be in good posture as well, you will also reap the benefits from this regimen.
Overall, today’s horse training techniques do not generally work well with mules and donkeys. Most horse training techniques used today speed up the training process so people can ride sooner and it makes the trainers’ techniques more attractive, but most of these techniques do not adequately prepare the equine physically in good posture for the added stress of a rider on his back. Mules and donkeys have a very strong sense of self-preservation, and need work that builds their bodies properly so they will feel good in their new and correct posture, or you won’t get the kind of results you might expect. Forming a good relationship with your equine begins with a consistent maintenance routine and appropriate groundwork. Most equines don’t usually get the well-structured and extended groundwork training on the lead rope that paves the way to good balance, core muscle conditioning and a willing attitude. But this is essential if an animal is truly expected to be physically and mentally prepared for future equine activities. With donkeys and mules, this is critically important. When you take the time to do this, your animal will be pleased that you have her best interests at heart and will not engage in the anxious behaviors that you describe.
A Two-strapped Saddle or Not
Question: We have a friend that declares that a mule does NOT need a two strapped saddle (front strap, and back strap)….Is this true in your opinion? I think it’s safer with two but I am green to all of this about mules….Please help!!
Answer: The regular horse saddles I use in the TV shows and videos have been carefully selected and modified to fit my own mules and donkeys. Equines are similar in their structure, but just like people, there are individual differences that need to be addressed if the “clothes” are going to fit properly. How well the equine is conditioned in his body will have an effect on how the saddle fits. An animal with irregular conditioning will not maintain the same body shape.
The girths I use are cotton string girths, both English and Western types. Then, you need to make sure that the saddle is placed in the middle of the equine’s back which will allow the girth to fall 4 inches behind the forearm. The skin directly behind the forearm is more sensitive than that which is further back. You should use a crupper adjusted snugly to hold the saddle in place. You can have a D-ring installed in the back of your saddle tree to attach the crupper to a Western saddle and there is a metal “T” that comes with cruppers that will fit into the underside of an English saddle. If the saddle is placed properly and the crupper adjusted properly, the saddle and girth should not cause the problem. There are some mules that have enough wither to keep the saddle from slipping over the neck, but the saddle can still slip forward just enough to cause problems at the shoulders and in the sensitive girth area if a crupper is not used.
The mules I have bred here at my ranch all have sufficient withers and are very much like horses in their structure. I have found that Circle Y Western saddles, all-purpose Passier or Courbette English saddles and Kieffer dressage saddles came very close to fitting my mules well. When fitted with a crupper, the English and dressage saddles were fine, but I still needed to fit the Western saddles a little better, so I had my saddle maker shave the convex swell off the fronts of the trees on my old Circle Y Western saddles and that helped the saddles to fit much better.
On the horse, there is an indentation in the musculature below the withers where a rider’s leg would fall comfortably if riding bareback. On a mule, this muscle is thicker and bulges. I had my saddle maker shave the convex bulge on the trees of my Western saddles to flatten this part to fit the mules and it worked very well given my mules’ shapes. Mules are often very short backed as well and the skirts of the Western saddle can interfere with the movement of the hips. In the case of a short backed mule, an Arabian saddle tends to fit better because of the rounded and shortened skirts. This is also true with smaller mules.
This isn’t a problem with a longer backed mule or donkey. Still, you need to place the saddle in the middle of his back such that the girth lies 4 inches behind the forearm clearing the sensitive skin area directly behind the forearm. The crupper should be adjusted snugly to keep it in place. It is common to see saddles placed too far forward on mules and donkeys causing restriction of shoulder movement and chafing of the scapula which can result in bucking.
There are mules and donkeys whose backs and withers are not as horse-like and in this case, a custom-fitted mule saddle would be a better choice. So, I would suggest that you need to make an assessment as to what would fit your own particular mule, or donkey, the best. They do need to have “clothes” that fit if they are to perform to the best of their ability with no interference from ill-fitting tack. One needs to also realize that as they gain muscle tone, their overall shape will change and in most cases, the saddle will then fit better. You can consult with a reputable saddle maker to determine what your particular animal would need. You cannot, however, make a saddle fit properly with the use of pads.
I caution you, however, to be careful about thinking that the saddle will be the complete solution to any problems your mule might have. I do not like treeless saddles as they do not provide enough support for an unbalanced rider and can actually inhibit the equine’s motion and sometimes even cause sores from undue shifting and rubbing. It is always best to continue to learn and improve together. When you ride, if you do not learn to ride a balanced seat and improve your skills, this can happen again with any saddle you may get. Your mule should not have a problem with a saddle if you are riding correctly and the saddle fits properly. The goal is to improve together so the end result is that you both learn to move together in a harmonious fashion.
Mule That Lost an Eye
Question: My little mule, Zippy, lost her left eye last Monday. Her veterinarian said she would lose her sight even if he treated it. He said we could either let it rot out of her head like people do that won’t spend money on a mule or remove it. I told him to remove it so he put her to sleep that afternoon and surgically removed her eye. So far she’s healing well. My question is if you have ever worked with a mule that lost an eye? And do you know of any thing I can do to help her adjust. She’s really sweet. When I went to pick her up at the clinic the vet didn’t think we would ever get her in the stock again because she had become so resistant. I wanted her to have another pain shot for the ride home and she followed me right into the stock. After her pain shot, even though she was right on the edge, she loaded into the trailer perfectly for me. I want to do the best I can for her like she did for me. Thank you for any advice you can give.
Answer: Yes, I have dealt with this and still am doing it. One of my yearlings, Lucky Three Magical Merlin poked his left eye on a tree and blinded himself. We opted to try to keep the eye and are still doctoring him to this day. He is now 23 years old and has gone through our training program and done very well (see photo and note the cloudy eye). He is one of my very best saddle mules. Here is the outline of our training program. When you take things slowly, logically and sequentially, they don’t have issues. If you try the current horse training methods, you will be disappointed because they certainly don’t work in this situation, but if you follow our program, there is no reason for your mule not to lead a completely normal life.
Saddle With Rear Girth Closer to the Flank
Question: A question about tack. I saw a saddle set up with the back cinch tight and a little further back. Do you know anything about this set up? Is it just a specific saddle or what?
Answer: There are those who think that if the rear girth is set closer to the flanks where the torso becomes narrower, it will hold the saddle back more efficiently than either breeching or cruppers. Having your saddle fit correctly and stay in place is critical when trail riding and during many other equine activities. However, I would be remiss if I did not mention that the way the saddle is rigged has a definite effect on your equine’s anatomy. Personally, I use cotton string girths in front and secure them four inches behind the forearm to clear the sensitive skin where most equines are galled. I use a crupper to keep both English and Western saddles in place over the center of balance, on those animals whose withers are not able to keep the saddle back because it allows for free range of motion both in front and in the rear. The back girth on a double-rigged Western, Australian or Side Saddle is to keep the rear part of the saddle from rising up while the equine is in motion over uneven terrain. It should only be adjusted snugly enough to keep it where it sits when the equine is at a standstill. That is why old saddle double-rigging included a strap between the two girths to keep them in place.
The front girth should lie underneath, at the posterior (back) end of the sternum where the bones are very thick and supportive. The back girth should lie straight down from the saddle where it should be snugly fit, but not too tight to simply hold the back of the saddle down. In this position, it is still supported by somewhat thick undercarriage rib-like bones that support the torso. When the equine is in motion, this back-girth rigging is perpendicular to the ground, and will stabilize the saddle in place without “moving” the bones and does not interfere with the internal organs. When the back girth is not attached and is tightened nearer the flanks to prevent the saddle from moving forward while the equine is in motion downhill, it applies undue pressure to the thinnest undercarriage bones that support the torso. The tightened back girth will torque the rib cage backwards (spreading the rib cage as per the Laws of Physics), increasing the pressure on these fragile undercarriage bones and puts them at risk for fracture. It also compresses the genitalia and intestinal tract when the equine is in motion, interfering with their normal function and can cause symptoms of ulcers, colic or worse.
Using the Elbow Pull to Correct Posture
Question: I came across your elbow pull post on Facebook while researching elbow pulls. I am curious about these, as I’ve never heard about them before, but recently came across someone who uses it. My horse is an 18 year old Quarter Horse and was never taught proper headset or collection or vertical flexion. He hollows his back, sticks his nose to the sky and has a very choppy trot. We don’t show, but I would like him to carry himself better and would like a softer ride! He will laterally flex, and just recently started vertical flexion at the standstill/walk. I give him his head as soon as he gives to the pressure but, he only holds it for a couple seconds, if that. I’m guessing I have to build him up to holding it longer but was wondering if the elbow pull will help him more? He also doesn’t wear a bit, so I’m not sure if this would be beneficial to him. Could you tell me if this sounds like something that would help him and if so, where do you buy an elbow pull? Or do you make them?
Answer: I developed the “Elbow Pull” myself (copyright/patented) years ago. It is meant to be used to perpetuate the good equine posture that we develop with specifically designed leading exercises for the core strength BEFORE we put the equine in the round pen. In the round pen, the “Elbow Pull” will help the equine to hold this good posture until he is able to carry himself in that good posture without leaning on it. It is not meant to fix a head set. In our exercises, we address the posture of the whole body and not just the head and neck as you will learn from the text below. The complete explanation and how to measure and make the “Elbow Pull” can be found in my EQUUS REVISTED Manual/DVD combo that you can purchase on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com. My program is good for ALL equines and if you are willing to be patient, forego riding for a while and do the exercises as described, it can add 5-10 years of life to your animal. I use the “Elbow Pull” during the leading exercises in an hourglass pattern for good balance for older animals who have not had the benefit of this kind of training. It is not a restraint to force anything. Rather, it works like the bar on the wall does for a ballet dancer when they are first getting their balance and before they can do the moves in the middle of a room. It must be adjusted and used correctly to get the right results. I am always available for any questions you might have going forward.
Improve Your Riding Without a Coach
Question: I want to improve my riding skills, but I don’t have a coach or a round pen, and I don’t have anyone to help me. What can I do?
Answer: I’ve found that if you use a neck strap to steer and stop your equine, you really come to realize how important—and useful—your legs and your body are in communicating what you want. Have your equine bridled, but add a neck strap. Keep the reins handy for safety, but use the neck strap to enforce your leg aids and seat.
As you ride by the “seat of your pants,” you will encounter less resistance because you aren’t relying on your hands—and the bit—for control and direction. Your main goal now is to cultivate an equine that is between your aids, and responsive to your voice, your seat, your legs, and lastly, to your hands.
Practice the half-halt, a full halt, and a rein back. Do patterns and changes of direction in an enclosed arena. Work on circles, serpentines, turns on the haunches and turns on the forehand. Then…bring on the obstacles! By going over familiar obstacles, you will perfect your body position and your balance.
By using the neck strap (and only using the reins for small corrections), you will enhance your riding skills and fine-tune the communication between you and your equine. Learn how to become the most effective rider you can be! Detailed neck strap training is covered in DVD #5 and in our Training Without Resistance manual that can be found in the STORE on my website.
Bitless Bridles, Hackamores and Halters
Question: I don’t want to hurt my mule’s mouth by putting a bit in it. How do you feel about bitless bridles, or riding in hackamores and halters?
Answer: It is not difficult to teach your equine to respond without a bit as you ride him and many people are now riding with “bitless bridles,” hackamores and halters. However impressive, this cannot address good equine posture since one is not born with good posture; it is something that must be taught with the proper equipment. The symmetrical development of core strength in good posture supports joints so they operate as they should and allows for the optimum function of internal organs. The mild Eggbutt snaffle bit with direct rein action, (pull right…go right; pull left…go left) promotes clear communication between you and your equine as he learns to take contact with the bit (without pinching the tongue) during training and he will become very light in the bridle as you learn to ride from your seat and develop light hands. I rarely have use for curb bits with my equines, only in shows where they are required and with green riders on a trail ride for a bit more leverage. For more about training in a logical and sequential way that helps to build core strength in good posture and promotes the ultimate in communication between you and your equine, please visit my website at www.luckythreeranch.com and look under TRAINING.
How to Worm a Difficult Mule
Question: My mule is difficult to worm and hates getting shots. We tried putting her in a chute, but he struggled so much we still could not get the job done. What do I do?
Answer: For the sake of safety, tie your mule to a good stout hitch rail. Then use our Face Tie technique (Training Mules & Donkeys DVD #2), running the lead rope around the hitch rail (or stout fence) and back through the noseband of the halter (nylon halters work best for this). Then come around a second time and loop it through the throatlatch part of the halter and around the hitch rail once more and tie it off. Take up the slack slowly as he gives it and be ready to reward him with oats when he complies. Then keep taking up the slack until his face is right up against the fence, or hitch rail. Do not try to bully him into it or he will just pull back. This should be done while he is standing parallel to the hitch rail so that when you pull the rope tight, it pulls his head tightly sideways to the hitch rail.
This will keep him from being able to swing his rear end around to block you. Reward him with oats and let him quiet down in this restraint before approaching with your shot. If he manages to keep you off the clear side, you can always go to the other side of the hitch rail and give him the shot from that side without fear of injury. If you do this correctly, it will simply restrain him in a safe manner and keep you out of the line of fire no matter what side you are on (the fence side is safer).
Each new time that you give shots, try to do it with the rope a little looser each time to fade out the restraint. They will usually just come to expect it and go to their position along the hitch rail or fence, and will lean into it like they did when you first gave the shots like this. He will soon learn to quiet down immediately when his face is being tied and at best will seem to be saying, “Dang, do we have to do this again?!” But, he will learn to comply. This is a humane restraint for mules and donkeys, but do not try this with a horse!
This is also a good restraint to use (and fade out) for those that are difficult to bridle. Just loop the rope through the noseband (and not the throatlatch strap) and tightly around the hitch rail. Just make sure when you put on the bridle that you “protect” their sensitive ears with your hands and they will learn to trust you.
How to stop a mule from bolting on the lead line
Question: How do I stop my mule from bolting on the lead line?
Answer: Be clear and consistent with your equines. The Lucky Three equines (including our horses and ponies) are all trained to come when they are called, stand back to wait their turn, and to come through gates and turn around to have their halters put on easily upon request. Always negotiate gates exactly the same way every time no matter how many animals you are leading.
Being clear and consistent in your handling practices with a carefully planned reward system – not bribery – will enhance the pleasure and safety you will experience during interaction with your equine! Carry a reward of crimped oats in a fanny pack strapped around your waist to command his complete attention. When we take the lead rope in our right hand and walk forward, we inadvertently interfere with their balance by subtlely pulling their head and neck from side to side. They balance with their head and neck. They get tired of being knocked off balance and most will eventually just LEAVE!
Always lead with your equine’s head at your shoulder, hold the lead rope in your left hand and point in the direction of travel with your right hand. This gives him something to follow forward with no interference with his balance and gives you a free hand to push him back into position should he try to pass you, or cross in front of you. Always walk straight lines and gradual arcs to enable him to keep equal weight over all four feet as he travels, and when he turns. Your equine should not lean, but rather, bend through his rib cage while staying erect in his body. Every single time you stop, square him up with equal weight over all four feet, reward him with the crimped oats and then WAIT for him to completely finish chewing before you ask him to go forward again. When you do things consistently this way, he becomes completely responsible for his own self-carriage and balance will no longer be an issue. The routine will become familiar to him and he will be happier to follow you wherever you want to go, keeping slack in the rope at all times. Our approach to training will help you to always get the very best from your equine and what’s more…they will look forward to being with you, with or without the lead rope!
If you email me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com, I am happy to send you even more details about this for FREE!
What to do About Flies and Insects Causing Sores
Question: The flies and other insects are exceptionally bad this year and are causing all kinds of problems around the barns. They are making the animals uncomfortable and anxious, difficult to handle and causing sores on their legs and swelling in their chests. What can I do to take care of this problem?
Answer: Here is some information about insect control that you might find helpful! We worm our equines in January, March, May, July and September with Farnam ivermectin and then break the cycle with Strongid in November to prevent internal worms and parasites. This will insure that your animals are safe despite what your neighbors may be doing with their livestock. Fields and pastures should be harrowed in the spring and fall and between hay cuttings. Keep all tack and equipment clean so it does not attract flies to your tack room and grooming area. Spray the tack room when you leave with a household flying insect spray for any residual flies.
1) First and foremost, a regular grooming schedule at least every other week and preferably every week is essential for the hygiene and health of your equines. Regular grooming once a week to remove excess hair, mud, etc. will eliminate places on the animal, including legs, that would be subject to insects laying eggs. If certain body areas begin to get sores, scabs or bumps, use Neosporin; or if they are severe…Panalog, also called Animax or Dermalone (by prescription from your vet). Clean the eyes, ears and nostrils every time during grooming and fly spray the hairs inside the ears for the best bug-block after cleaning.
2) We use Tri-Tech 14 by Farnam fly spray weekly for bugs and insects that can pester your equine. This seems to be the best and longest lasting spray (Herbal remedies and fly predators do not work as well!). Scrub flies and eggs from the legs, cover with Neosporin and then spray for flies during grooming. Using Johnson’s baby oil in the manes and tails helps to keep the flies at bay and will also discourage other animals from chewing on them.
3) Use fly masks for those mules and donkeys that have sensitive skin. Farnam Super Masks will usually fit most animals. If you groom regularly and clean and spray the ear hairs, the eared masks may not be necessary (I have never had to use the ones with ears). You can find them in most tack and vet stores. Just make sure when you put them on that they will come off easily if they were to get caught on anything.
4) Feeding the right kinds of feed for mules and donkeys. Animals that are sweating toxins are more apt to attract insects.
5) In order to keep flies and other insects under control, all stalls, runs and pens need to be kept free of manure and debris daily. Barns should be cleaned periodically with disinfectant. Keep all stalls, pens and sheds free of urine and manure (clean at least once a day, every day!). This includes larger dirt pen turnout areas weekly. You shouldn’t need to use any PDZ or chemicals at all if cleaned properly. For good drainage in stalls, we drill a 2’ x 4’ deep hole in the middle of the stall and fill it with 1 ½” rock. Then we put down 4” of pea gravel throughout the whole stall and cover with rubber mats.
6) Keep manure collection piles well away from the house and barns (We put manure into a dumpster behind our hay barn and have it hauled away weekly). Contrary to popular belief, the manure is NOT suitable for fertilizer unless it is properly composted and used for appropriate crops. Equines consume weeds and poop seeds that will propagate weeds anywhere that the manure is used.
7) Keep water sources clean. Check them daily, or clean as needed.
8) Clean any manure from shed or stall walls daily. Power wash stall walls and alleyways as needed.
9) Ceiling fans will also help a lot, both pointed into specific stalls and along the top of your barn alleyways! Just be sure to check them regularly and clean them as needed to prevent any spontaneous fires from dust gathering in them.
10) Do not ever clip the hair inside the ears or muzzle hairs of the equines! Body clip only if you are showing. Use blankets and fly sheets as needed. Their hair coats will protect them from the heat, cold and insects.
11) Do not clip the hair on the legs unless you absolutely must for showing! Lots of times, you can get a clean look by using the clippers with the hair rather than against the hair on the legs to maintain protection.
12) For more information, please visit my website at www.luckythreeranch.com.
What Should I Look for in a Friend for My Donkey
Question: I am looking for a friend for my donkey, and I would like to get a mule to ride too. What should I look for and what should I do so it won’t cause any problems? Can they all be pastured together?
Answer: You can be your donkey’s or mule’s best friend if you do the exercises I outlined in my management and training program, which focuses on building core muscle strength. It is easy to execute and will not only keep your mule healthier, but will also give you the right things to do to become your mule’s best friend. If you do, he won’t necessarily need another equine companion. If you see him morning and evening for feeding times and then do leading exercises with him for 15-20 minutes once a week, it will give him the socialization he needs.
Equines have as many personality types as people and there is no real way to predict what friendships will occur. It would be like having someone else pick out a friend for you. In general, mules do better with other mules. Donkeys do better with other donkeys. Still there are responsibilities you have that requires your interaction with them on a routine and consistent basis if you do not want to see adverse behaviors arise, and if you want to keep them happy. Just getting another animal will not solve this problem. You could end up with two animals that both need other suitable companionship even if they are housed together.
I keep my mules, donkeys and horses separated from each other and in age appropriate groups. Male mules can drive the horses crazy with their need to be near them and will often chase aged mules from the herd. Donkeys prefer family groups of their own kind. Male donkeys would be the same as male mules, especially if they are not castrated. Female donkeys are not as aggressive, but I have found that size matters and all mules and donkeys don’t necessarily bond with those of a different size. Mare’s and gelding horses are generally much happier by themselves in the pasture without Longears. It is unwise to put any younger (2 years and under), older (18 years and older), or smaller animals in with mules or donkeys (especially males) because it is instinctual for them to chase them, and possibly cause injury or death.
Smaller animals such as cattle, goats, etc. should never be pastured with male mules, donkeys and some molly mules. When supervised, Longears can be taught not to attack your dogs, cats, goats and even calves, but if left alone, it IS in their nature to run these animals down and they will often kill them for sport. This is not as often seen in the females (it depends on personality as well) as it is in the males, but it is, nevertheless, present and should be heeded.
The best companion for a mule is another equine of a comparable size and age. Animals of another species (especially a smaller species) are never really completely safe with mules. They can get too playful and sometimes will injure, or kill the smaller animal.
Draft equines should never be pastured with any other kind of equine, or other smaller animal, as they are so large, they can snap another smaller animal’s bones with one well-placed kick with no effort at all. Donkeys do the best when kept in gender groups (jennets/jennys together, geldings together and jacks by themselves with adequate fencing) and groups of animals of the same age. It is the same with mules. Mid age male mules will often bother the molly mules during breeding season.
How do I teach my mule to stand still
Question: My mule won’t stand still and stop pawing. How do I teach him to stand still?
Answer: Longears love routine! You can greatly reduce your Longears’ anxiety and bad behaviors by having a familiar place where he is groomed and tacked up. Younger equines in particular will tend to be impatient and will exhibit anxious behaviors. Being patient, respectful and consistent in your approach helps him to relax and enjoy being with you. Try to be understanding and ignore their anxious behaviors. Ask them to stand still only for the time you are doing something with them. They will generally respond to your presence by standing still if you just do a quick slap under the belly and say, “No!” Then as soon as they stand still, immediately give their reward of crimped oats and do what you need to do. They will learn that you are being fair, they enjoy their time with you and being herd bound is no longer a problem. Learn a lot more on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com under TRAINING and in the STORE. LEARN TOGETHER…EXCEL TOGETHER!
Is using a muzzle harmful to my donkey’s training
Question: Would using a muzzle be beneficial or harmful to my donkey’s training? Or should I say my training? I grew up raising and showing horses. The donkey is a new concept. He is with my quarter horse gelding I rescued. I wanted the donkey as a companion for my horse. Was that a bad idea?
Answer: I believe that muzzles are a lazy person’s answer to good management. They just want to be able to put the animal on pasture and feed (and manage) when it is convenient for them. Donkeys are very smart animals and although they readily accept you putting on a muzzle, they will often figure out a way to get it off, or adjust it so they can eat what they want with it on anyway. Besides, having a halter or muzzle on their head puts them at risk of it getting caught on something and causing injury. I guess you would have to ask yourself…”How would I feel if someone tried to muzzle me to control my eating habits?” This is why it is important to use a mutually satisfying management and training program. Even Pat Parelli agrees that horses SHOULD be trained, the way that Longears MUST BE TRAINED for the best results.
If your horse does not kick at the donkey, then it is probably all right. However, if there is any kicking going on, I would separate them. One well-placed kick could snap the smaller donkey’s bones.
How do you get your donkeys to lunge
Question: How do you get your donkeys to lunge? My donkey will not go in a circle around me. All he wants to do is follow me and he gets scared and runs away if I use a whip.
Answer:Lunging a donkey on a lunge line in an open area may seem like an impossible task, but when you take the time to break things down into very small steps and do them in a logical and sequential order that they can understand, there is nothing they will not do for you. People have often told me that training donkeys are very different from training horses and mules, but I have always used the same basic approach with only a few “tweaks” here and there. I have to make those kinds of small adjustments for each individual equine anyway! So, “No,” it’s not that different!
The tack used with the “Elbow Pull” is not uncomfortable for your equine and it is impossible to affect their posture without using a snaffle bit. Since they do not respect a hard tie and will fling themselves over backward if you try, horses need a little different approach when securing the “Elbow Pull” than do donkeys and mules (covered in our EQUUS REVISITED DVD sold in our STORE). It will help him to maintain his good equine posture in an ideal balance while executing all the moves that are asked. Most disobedience is generally due to a loss of balance or just falling out of good posture! Repetition in this tack and equipment changes their body carriage to a more ideal posture that will become their habitual way of going. This is much healthier, reduces the incidence of arthritis and allows the internal organs to operate as intended. Over the long term, this approach to training adds longevity to their use-life. After doing their core strength balanced leading exercises on the flat ground and then later over obstacles, the equine graduates to lunging in the Round Pen. I introduce the lunge line in the Round Pen so we won’t get into a pulling match in an open area. I keep it loose and only do a “squeeze-release” on the lunge line with my fingers as the outside front foot comes forward into suspension. This causes the front foot to land on the arc of the circle without throwing the animal off balance and becomes the “cue” to keep them on the circle in the open areas later without having to pull drastically on the lunge line!
Is training donkeys different from training mules and horses
Question: When I am training my donkey, he does not react the same way as horses and mules to my way of training. Is training donkeys different from training mules and horses?
Answer:Many people believe that training donkeys is different from training mules and horses, but in my experience, it is more a case of assessing each individual equine at any given stage of training and adjusting my approach accordingly. Like people, each individual equine learns differently and at their own pace. I use the same basic techniques with ALL of my equines…large or small, Longears or horse and any breed or sex. I break things down into very small, doable steps so they do not get overwhelmed at any stage.
We begin with leading on flat ground through the Hourglass Pattern in a restraint I developed called the “Elbow Pull” (if they are under two years old, they will not need this) for 3 to 6 months. With their head at your shoulder, the lead rope in your left hand while pointing in the direction of travel and walking in sync with their front legs, it is important to lead through the pattern with straight lines and gradual arcs. This will facilitate the symmetrical development of the elements that support the skeletal frame (muscles, ligaments, tendons, soft tissue and ensure even wear on the cartilage in the joints). They should be asked to “square up” with equal weight over all four feet EVERY TIME they stop. Passive stretching exercises will promote flexibility and elasticity. They should always be rewarded with crimped oats for every honest attempt or successful achievement. Other foods are not healthy in large quantities and are not food that the animal will continue to work for. Each step is easy because they are done in a logical and sequential order that makes sense to THEM. When these guidelines are followed, they learn to trust you.
After leading on the flat ground is sufficiently done, we add going through obstacles to build coordination. This requires another 3 to 6 months. You can tell when the exercises are sufficient when they will traverse the pattern with the lead rope slung over their neck and when they respond only to your voice and hand signals. When they have learned to stay erect in their body and bend through their rib cage to the arcs and turns, you can then add lunging in the Round Pen for another 3 to 6 months. And finally, they learn to be light in the bridle with 3 to 6 months of Ground Driving before graduating to the open arena.
My approach is consistent, polite and respectful which brings out the best in each animal. Donkeys insist on this for easy compliance. When lessons are purposeful and predictable, they become easy to lead, lunge, ground drive, and are consequently much better under saddle and in harness later. This slow and meticulous approach requires a lot of patience, but the results are miraculous. A donkey that is balanced and light in the bridle is truly a smoother and more pleasurable ride! It takes time, but the results of this postural core strength, balanced bodybuilding are amazing and will add longevity to your donkey…and, he will truly appreciate your efforts on his behalf! Learn much more on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com in the various sections under TRAINING, particularly under:
CHASITY’S CHALLENGES
ANOTHER AUGIE & SPUDS ADVENTURE
WRANGLER’S DONKEY DIARY
TRAINING TIPS
What All do I Need to do to Teach My Equines to Drive if I Try to do it Myself
Question: I am interested in training my mule to drive. I also have a donkey that I might like to drive. What all do I need to do to teach them to drive if I try to do it myself? Do I need to get a trainer or can I do this myself? Do I need to invest in harness right away? I just want to make sure that I do it right and that I do it safely.
Answer:Driving can be a potential hazard if you do not do enough prep work. It is important to do plenty of groundwork for a number of reasons. Leading training done in our HOURGLASS PATTERN in my postural “Elbow Pull” restraint begins to build the equine’s body in good posture while strengthening the elements that support the skeletal frame. This assures balanced self-carriage and will minimize the occurrence of physical soreness later when performing. Once leading on the flat ground is established and the way of moving has been enhanced, it is imperative to lead over and through obstacles to add coordination to the equine’s body. This will ensure that he stays erect and executes movement from his hind quarters, bending through the rib cage when turning his body (not leaning like a motorcycle!) while staying in an uphill balance. Lunging at all three gaits, halting and backing in a balanced frame and learning to turn on the haunches with this elevated frame will help to build the bulk muscle effectively. Ground driving will sensitize him to rein cues and cultivate an animal that is eager to perform and light in the bridle. This will greatly animate his gaits in harness and make the extended gaits easy for him. This can take quite a while, so be PATIENT! Learn to appreciate the “little victories” along the way! Human athletes take a lot of time to be ready for their performances, so you should afford your equine the same consideration. Typically, it can take a full two years for this prep work when done correctly: 3-6 mos. of leading on flat ground, 3-6 mos. of leading over obstacles, 3-6 mos. of lunging and 3-6 mos. of ground driving.
When these exercises are completed you can safely move on to his athletic endeavors whether it be riding or driving. Whether riding or driving, this prep work is the same. The animal that is properly prepared will have far less issues with his physical mobility (less accidents and lower vet bills!). The steps to training your equine to drive are simple and there are some stages where it is advisable to use an assistant, but you can learn to do this yourself. I like to encourage people to do most of the training themselves because the equine bonds the deepest with the person who does the training. You can find all kinds of helpful information about preparing your equine with balance and core strength on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com in the various sections under TRAINING, especially under TRAINING/TRAINING TIPS and TRAINING/VIDEO ON DEMAND. You can buy my books and videos in the STORE and I would be happy to send you a lot more detailed information if you email me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com.
My Mule has Large Bald Spots. What Could This be From?
Question: My mule has large bald spots in a couple of places on her body. They did not appear until just recently and I don’t think it is from lice or anything like that. I can’t find anything in her hair coat that might cause this and the skin is not red. What could this be from? It seems to happen every year about the same time and always when she still has her winter hair. My donkey occasionally gets patches like this, too.
And, what is the best tool to use for shedding?
Answer: Just before your equine begins to shed, the hair starts to get loose from the skin. Many of the bald patches you see are simply from rubbing. The hair will rub off and leave bald spots on certain parts of their bodies which are often unsightly. Also, if they have had an injury of some sort that left a scar, that will also be hairless. There is really no reason to worry unless the skin is obviously red with sores. When they begin to shed, they often get very itchy and will rub and cause bald spots in a lot of places: on their hips and legs from getting up and down, on their chests from rubbing on the fence and on their faces.
I have discovered that weekly grooming makes their hair coats much healthier in the winter, and bald spots in the spring are not as numerous. I also discovered that using a shedding blade will often break off the hair shafts and make for a more rugged looking coat. A human, multi-bristled plastic hairbrush will do a much better job. I only use the shedding blade to remove caked-on mud, then go over their whole body with the hair brush after doing their manes and tails with Johnson’s Baby oil. The baby oil that is left on the brush (I do not add more) adds just enough oil to regenerate the skin and keeps them from getting dry skin and dandruff flakes. The Johnson’s Baby oil in the manes and tails prevents tangles and discourages them from chewing on each others’ manes and tails.
Wiping out their ears, eyes and nostrils weekly not only keeps things clean, but will help to prevent serious upper respiratory infections in the spring and fall. When this is done often, grooming doesn’t take as long and hair coats look healthy all year whether the hair is short or long. I never body clip except for show and never clip the insides of the ears. Their natural hair coats insulate them from the heat and cold, and will protect them from insect invasions. When grooming is done weekly, any sores can be identified early and treated with Neosporin.
You can buy my books and videos in the STORE and I would be happy to send you a lot more detailed information if you email me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com.
My mule is very nervous about new things. How can I get him to calm down and trust me?
Question:My mule is very nervous about new things and when I try to approach the things he seems to be fearful of, he just pulls the rope out of my hands and runs off. Getting him near anything he doesn’t like is impossible. If he doesn’t want to go with me, he will do the same thing. Most of the time he is really good, but if I take him trail riding, I am afraid he will do this on the trail and I could lose him. How can I get him to calm down and trust me?
Answer:Equines always do better when they have a definite and consistent routine from their owners that they can rely upon. The following information will help you to structure their management and training for the best results. Although we begin our DVD series with “Foal Training,” no matter how old, you should always begin training with imprinting and move forward from there with attention to feed as well. This will insure a positive introduction and will help to build a good relationship with your equine. Our methods are meant to be done in a sequence and taking shortcuts or changing our method in some way will not yield the same results. After many years of training for other people, I have found that equines, especially mules and donkeys, bond to the person who trains them. When they go away to other people, they do not get the benefit of this bonding and can become resistant over time when they return home. After all, you wouldn’t ask someone else to go out and make a friend for you, would you? This is the primary reason I put my entire training program in books and videos, in a natural order like grade school is for children, for people to use as a resistance free correspondence training course instead of doing clinics and seminars. People are encouraged to use the series and to contact me via mail, email or telephone for answers to any questions. This way your questions can be answered promptly.
No matter how old or how well trained the equine, they still need time doing the simplest of things to get to know you before they will learn to trust and have confidence in you. The exercises that you do should build the body slowly, sequentially and in good equine posture. No human or equine is born in good posture. It is something that needs to be taught and practiced repetitively if it is to become a natural way of moving the body. When the body is in good posture, all internal organs can function properly and the skeletal frame will be supported correctly. Just as our children need routine, ongoing learning and the right kind of exercise while they are growing up, so do equines. They need boundaries for their behavior clearly outlined to minimize anxious behaviors and inappropriate behavior, and the exercises that you do together need to build their strength and coordination in good equine posture. The time spent together during leading training and going forward builds a good solid relationship with your equine and fosters his confidence and trust in you because you actually help him to feel physically better. A carefully planned routine and an appropriate feeding program is critical to healthy development.
Most equines never experience core muscle strength and this becomes even more important as they age. We do leading training for a full year to not only get them to learn to lead and to develop a good relationship with them, but also to develop good posture and core muscle strength in preparation to carry a rider. Leading lessons for postural strength and balance need only be done for 15-20 minutes once a week to be certain that they aren’t fighting balance problems later when you mount and ride. Even an older equine with previous training would still need this for optimum performance and longevity. During the time you do the leading training strengthening exercises, you should NOT ride the animal as this will inhibit the success of the preliminary exercises. If you ride while you do these exercises, it will not result in the same proper muscle conditioning, habitual behavior and new way of moving. The lessons need to be routine and done in good posture to acquire the correct results. Hold the lead rope in your LEFT hand, keep his head at your shoulder, match your steps with his front legs, point in the direction of travel with your right hand and look where you are going doing straight lines, gradual arcs and square him up with equal weight over all four feet EVERY TIME you stop.
We are building NEW habits in their way of moving and the only way that can change is through routine, consistency in the routine and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Since this also requires that you be in good posture as well, you will also reap the benefits from this regimen. Along with feeding correctly, these exercises will help equines to drop fat rolls and to begin to take on a more correct shape and become strong in good posture. When they are comfortable in their bodies and feel through a predictable routine that they can trust you, their fear will be replaced with a sense of curiosity as they spend time with you.
You can buy my books and videos in the STORE and I would be happy to send you a lot more detailed information if you email me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com.
A couple of questions on the use of Ivermectin?
Question:May I ask a couple of simple questions concerning the Ivermectin? I have tried to find the research for the claims being made by others and I cannot find any. Mendeley is where 99% of the scientific papers are published. My daughter that is a research scientist at Texas A&M is also trying to find the research and failing to find it.
I agree with you. I at one time had 24 horses, used Ivermectin. I treated every two months.
In November I would usually change to something else. I did not use anything for the herd until April. I did look for eggs etc. My wife was a high school science teacher and used this as part of her class work. She also had the kids bring samples from the horses for comparison.
My daughter is in Texas A&M. and currently working with the FDA feedlot and other feedlots on the effects of Ivermectin on cattle in confined areas. She is pulling fecal samples today they started with the fresh new cattle at 2 AM and should be done by 3 PM, then she has to go back to the lab and do some processing. She will finish the stabilizing at about 7 PM this evening. While this makes for a long day for her she loves it. Then in 21 days they will pull the samples again to see what parasites remain, egg count etc. This is on 1000 head of feeder calves.
What you find is the same as what I find.
Answer:We worm our equines in January, March, May, July and September with Farnam Ivermectin and then break the cycle with Strongid in November to prevent internal worms and parasites. This ensures that your animals are safe despite what your neighbors may be doing with their livestock. Fields and pastures should be harrowed in the spring and fall, and between hay cuttings. Keep all tack and equipment clean so it does not attract flies to your tack room and grooming area. Spray the tack room when you leave with a household flying insect spray for any residual flies.
1) First and foremost, a regular grooming schedule at least every other week and preferably every week is essential for the hygiene and health of your equines. Regular grooming once a week to remove excess hair, mud, etc. will eliminate places on the animal, including legs that would be subject to insects laying eggs. If certain body areas begin to get sores, scabs, or bumps, use Neosporin, or if they are severe…Panalog, also called Animax or Dermalone (by prescription from your vet). Clean the eyes, ears and nostrils every time during grooming and fly spray the hairs inside the ears for the best bug-block after cleaning.
2) We use Tri-Tech 14 by Farnam fly spray weekly for bugs and insects that can pester your equine. This seems to be the best and longest-lasting spray (Herbal remedies and fly predators do not work as well!). Scrub flies and eggs from the legs, cover with Neosporin and then spray for flies during grooming. Using Johnson’s baby oil in the manes and tails helps to keep the flies at bay and will also discourage other animals from chewing on them.
3) Use fly masks for those mules and donkeys that have sensitive skin. Farnam Super Masks will usually fit most animals. If you groom regularly and clean and spray the ear hairs, the eared masks may not be necessary (I have never had to use the ones with ears). You can find them in most tack and vet stores. Just make sure when you put them on that they will come off easily if they were to get caught on anything.
4) Mules will usually not fully shed out until July and donkeys will go as long as August. Their hair coats are designed to insulate them from heat and cold and protect them from insects and bugs. Using all these hygienic livestock and land management practices I have never needed to use fly masks on my donkeys and horses. I have only needed to use them on about 30% of those mules that have sensitive skin around the eyes and are prone to sunburn.
5) Feed the right kinds of feed to mules and donkeys. Animals that are sweating toxins are more apt to attract insects.
6) In order to keep flies and other insects under control; all stalls, runs and pens need to be kept free of manure and debris daily. Barns should be cleaned periodically with disinfectant. Keep all stalls, pens and sheds free of urine and manure (clean at least once a day, every day!). This includes larger dirt pen turnout areas weekly. You shouldn’t need to use any PDZ or chemicals at all if cleaned properly. For good drainage in stalls, we drill a 2’ x 4’ deep hole in the middle of the stall and fill it with 1 ½” rock. Then we put down 4” of pea gravel throughout the whole stall and cover with rubber mats.
7) Keep manure collection piles well away from the house and barns (We put manure into a dumpster behind our hay barn and have it hauled away weekly). Contrary to popular belief, the manure is NOT suitable for fertilizer unless it is properly composted and used for appropriate crops. Equines consume weeds and poop seeds that will propagate weeds anywhere that the manure is used. It also provides a breeding place for parasites.
8) Keep water sources clean. Check them daily or clean as needed.
9) Clean any manure from shed or stall walls daily. Power wash stall walls and alleyways as needed.
10) Ceiling fans will also help a lot, both pointed into specific stalls and along the top of your barn alleyways! Just be sure to check them regularly and clean them as needed to prevent spontaneous fires from dust gathering in them. Keep them running so birds will not build nests on them!
11) Do not ever clip the hair inside the ears or muzzle hairs of the equines! Body clip only if you are showing. Use blankets and fly sheets as needed. Their hair coats will insulate them from the heat, cold and protect them from insects.
12) Do not clip the hair on the legs or body clip unless you absolutely must for showing! Lots of times, you can get a clean look by using the clippers with the hair rather than against the hair on the legs to maintain protection. If you do body clip, be sure to use appropriate blankets and sheets for warmth and insect protection. To keep the clipped hair from growing back in the winter and early spring, keep the barn lit for summer hours.
13) Keeping your fence lines free of weeds will also help enormously! Bugs and insects like to live in those areas!
14) We do not allow the equines to graze on the hay fields and we regularly harrow, aerate and even pick up manure in their turnout areas. Parasites need a host where they can thrive and good hygiene practices with both equines and land will minimize their ability to survive.
I have been doing more research about Ivermectin and I still cannot find anything to validate what a lot of the people were saying on Facebook. Although I posted this entire livestock and land management approach, I noticed that most comments were focused only on the worming schedule. If you do not manage the environment along with the equines, you will have a higher presence of parasites, and those that are there can build up immunity to Ivermectin. When the parasites are hardly present at all, they will not react the same way as a higher infestation does.
We do not graze our animals on the hayfields. We harrow, aerate and rotate the animals in the turnout pastures regularly, and our manure is kept in a dumpster and is taken off site every week. All the pastures, including the hayfields, are regularly sprayed with animal-friendly fertilizer and weed killer. We do not have a lot of trees in the turnout areas. Rather, we have turnout sheds that are not large and are not conducive to the birds building nests and dropping things in those areas. The barns and pens are cleaned daily and we have nearly no birds at all in the barns because of the fans. We do not use fly predators, or introduce those kinds of things to our “clean” environment.
We do not have to use fly masks or “socks” on the legs of our animals. We have only needed fly masks on those equines that have sensitive skin around the eyes and are prone to sunburn. Regular grooming practices keep the incidence of bites in the ears to a minimum, and when treated with Neosporin, they seldom return. I have never needed to use fly masks on my donkeys or horses. I have not needed to use fly masks with ear protectors either. It seems that in addition to the Farnam Tri-Tech 14, the clean environment keeps the intensity of the fly and insect population to a bare minimum
Using the Ivermectin every other month does seem to do much more than just take care of the worms; it affects other parasites as well. It is very important to follow good hygiene and proper land management as a whole to get the full effect of the control of parasites in our equines and their environment. As I suspected, the consistent results can be observed in my equines, and the equines belonging to the people who follow my protocol. Books and lab research are helpful, but not without the benefits of real life experience in practical application of that knowledge. I combined and applied what I have learned in college (For my Psychiatric Technician’s License & Animal Sciences at C.S.U.), research papers, professional veterinarian consultations and books with the field study of my own 32 equines over a period of 40+ years to come to my conclusions. There is a lot of researched information to validate the success of my program. The ultimate result is the consistent health and welfare of my equines as they age. Visitations from my veterinarian are rare…mostly just twice a year for general vaccinations and boosters…and consultations for the rescues. I share what I have learned, not to say I know it all, but rather to give the public the benefit of my experience. Take it, or leave it…the decision is up to each individual.
Breaking the Ivermectin cycle in November addresses the hook worms and round worms (and larvae) that the Ivermectin cannot address. I have checked out this program with numerous veterinarians over a period of 35+ years and they all agreed it was safe and effective. Several of them were Colorado State University Veterinarian Program graduates.
Here are a couple of links that we found that explain very well and do not appear to be singularly biased and Covid 19 connected: What is Ivermectin? and National Library of Medicine – Anthelmintics
You can buy my books and videos in the STORE and I would be happy to send you a lot more detailed information if you email me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com.
I would like to train my mule and my donkey to drive. What kind of harness should I get?
Question: I would like to train my mule and my donkey to drive, but I don’t know what kind of harness to get. Will I have to get a separate harness for each of them, or can I get one set of harnesses that will fit them both? Where do I learn how to put it on the right way?
Answer: If they are both close to the same size, you might only have to get one set of harness, unless of course, you may want to drive them as a team later. Whether riding or driving, the comfort and fit of your tack and equipment is an important consideration if you wish to get the best performance from your equine. Any piece of equipment that does not correctly fit your equine can cause less than optimum performance. In my experience, I prefer to use a “collar” harness on my driving equines. It helps them to pull more evenly and does not chafe the chest and shoulders. On my smaller animals, the collars are too cumbersome, and they do better with a “breast collar” harness. But whichever you decide to use, make sure it fits. In addition, make sure the vehicle is suitable to the size of your equine.
Consider, for instance, the bridle, which is such an important communication device. Do not select a harsh bit for control. Control comes from logical and sequential practices during training and not from force. The bit should be comfortable and be fitted correctly to facilitate good communication from your hands to the corners of your equine’s mouth. The bit should also be a comfortable width, leaving a half-inch from the hinge on both sides of his mouth. If the bit is placed too high or too low in the animal’s mouth, his fussing while he tries to get comfortable will override his ability to receive clear communication from your hands. NOTE: Be sure the chin chain on a curb bit lies flat and allows for two fingers to fit easily between the chain and his jaw. All parts of the bridle must fit correctly. For instance, most mules have a broader forehead than does the horse, and therefore must have a larger brow band fitted so the ears do not get pinched or rubbed sore. The throatlatch must be adjusted so that it gives the mule plenty of room for flexion without cutting off his air supply.
The blinders on a harness bridle also need to be set and bent properly to do their job without chafing the eyes. When one thing is out of place on a unit of equipment it will usually negatively influence other parts of the same unit, and in training, these seemingly insignificant maladjustments can cause resistant behavior in your animal. In the case of an ill-fitting bridle, he might continually open his mouth, bob or shake his head or just subtly refuse to go on the bit. Minimizing discomfort and distraction allows the equine to more easily receive and process communication.
Although the mule is a tough and durable animal, there are places on his body where his skin is particularly sensitive and easily chafed, so when fitting a harness or saddle you must pay special attention to these parts of his body. The collar on a harness, for example, needs to fit snugly and smoothly in front of the shoulders, allowing your hand to slip easily between the collar and the base of your mule’s throat and chest. A collar that is either too tight or too loose can rub and cause soreness, inhibiting maximum performance. When improperly adjusted, a breast collar harness can also cause rubbing at the points of the shoulders. The girth area on your equine is particularly sensitive. The surcingle or girth on the harness or saddle should be placed four inches behind your animal’s forearm where the barrel starts to swell, and not over the sensitive area directly behind the forearm. A crupper should be used to keep the saddle from slipping forward and taking the girth with it forward into this sensitive area directly behind the forearm.
Placement of the surcingle (with or without harness attached) is important, but you also need to pay attention to the material out of which the harness surcingle or girth is made and its condition. Soft leather usually causes no problem, but if the leather is dirty or stiff, or if a material other than leather is used, some kind of padding may be needed for optimum comfort. Nylon and other man-made materials can often cause chafing, so be careful about what kind of material is used for the girth on your harness. The cleanliness, correct adjustment, and comfort of the harness and other equipment can actually be a matter of safety for both you and your animal. An animal that is exhibiting behavior that may be labeled as “stubborn” or “ornery” is often simply trying to communicate his discomfort, so taking the time to evaluate these behaviors with reference to equipment can help to produce more positive results.
Remember that equines, like people, come in a variety of shapes and sizes, so there is no universal bridle, saddle or harness that will automatically fit your equine any more than there is one size and shape of clothing that will correctly and comfortably fit all people. An equine’s shape will change with physical conditioning and, as the level of performance is increased, it becomes increasingly more important to have equipment that fits properly, affords comfort, and lends support. If equines are to perform to the best of their ability, we need to work them in the best-fitting, most comfortable equipment during each activity. Taking the time and effort to find comfortable, proper fitting and supportive tack and equipment will help you get the best results from yourself and your equine and will mean a more pleasurable experience for both of you.
The TRAINING MULES & DONKEYS DVD series, DVD #3 covers everything you need to know about driving. In the STORE at www.luckythreeranchstore.com, our TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE manual, Chapter 3 covers DRIVING. There are TRAINING TIPS (#109 – #120) on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com that will help you. And, if you have any problems along the way, you are welcome to contact me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com and I will respond promptly!
What can I do so my mules and donkeys can stay fit and be ready to ride in the spring?
Question: My mule and my donkey do so well during the spring, summer and fall. But, when winter comes and there is snow on the ground, or rain pouring down, I am at a loss and don’t know what I can do. I do not have an indoor arena to practice what we are usually doing, so what can I do so they can stay fit and be ready to ride in the spring?
Answer: After spring, summer and fall come and go, the cold days of winter can easily become an excuse to slow down and do less, but winter can be just as fun and full of activities with your equine as any other season. Along with the basics—food, water and shelter—your equine needs activities to keep him fit and happy. Like any of us, he doesn’t want to be active only part of the year and then left alone during the winter months, bored and lonely (not to mention the stress he will feel when he has to be reconditioned every spring). Instead, it’s healthier for him, both physically and mentally, to be active and maintained year-round. This does not mean you need to ride him three or four days a week throughout the winter. There are lots of other fun, diverse activities you can enjoy together that will adequately maintain his body condition while keeping him interested and happy. Practicing Groundwork Basics can be very beneficial and will keep your equine in good condition throughout the winter months. These basics can be transformed into Liberty Work with your equine (including ALL equines – horses, mules, donkeys and ponies) that does not require an indoor facility and will enhance the bond between you.
There are lots of different winter games that you can play with your equine, and if you have a friend who wants to participate as well, there are even more possibilities. With proper winter shoes (often with Borium beads) on your equine and good, flat ground, and if the weather permits, there are so many Gymkhana games that you can play. Or, how would you like a brisk cross-country gallop on your equine with a few fences to jump? Or, you and a friend can take an exciting ride on a tire or sled, with one person riding the equine while the other rides the sled or tire. If you have more friends with equines, you can even have winter races. You are limited only by your own imagination! Remember that any game or sport requires that you consider safety first for both you and your equine: What are your abilities? What are your limitations? What is your level of physical conditioning and that of your equine? Whatever activities the two of you do to keep busy, happy and healthy during the winter months, the name of the game should always be—FUN!
For more information about winter games, go to my website at www.luckythreeranch.com and look under TRAINING/MULE CROSSING/LONGEARS IN GENERAL(category)/WINTER FUN WITH YOUR MULE or TRAINING/TRAINING TIPS #123
What is different about the Elbow Pull?
Question: My mule keeps raising his head and grabbing the bit. Sometimes he will even run off with me under saddle and even when he is just being led from one place to another. Is there a way to fix this problem? I have seen your Elbow Pull being used and it looks like a Chambon, or Draw Reins, that pull the mule’s head down. Does it work like other restraints? What is different about the Elbow Pull?
Answer: In my TRAINING MULES & DONKEYS DVD #2, in the TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE manual (2003) and in the SPECIAL FEATURES of my EQUUS REVISITED DVD (2009), I talk about using a postural aid called the “Elbow Pull.” In the EQUUS REVISITED DVD, we teach you how to measure it for your individual equine and how to make it. The “Elbow Pull” puts your animal into your equine’s ideal posture. He will have full range of motion in every direction when it is adjusted correctly. He will just not be able to raise his head so high that he hollows his neck and back. He will be able to balance and adjust his body position, and encourage the hind quarters to come underneath his body when he is walked, or driven forward. Allowing the equine to take short steps, front and back, would let the back sag (swayback-Lordosis) and does not engage the abdominal muscles. The “Elbow Pull” encourages the equine to stretch his spine, round his back and neck upwards (not “hump” it!) and elevates the shoulders when he steps underneath his body. The elevation (or suspension) in the shoulders allows him to increase the “reach” in his front legs. I use the “Elbow Pull” for Leading Training, Ground Driving and when he is ready, Lunging in the Round Pen. The Leading Training on flat ground through our HOURGLASS PATTERN, positively affects his overall postural balance, and Leading through Obstacles adds coordination. How do you know when he is ready to go on to each stage of Leading Training on flat ground and then through obstacles? When you can throw the lead rope over his neck and do the exercises with verbal commands, hand signals and body language alone. This is building a new habitual way of traveling all in preparation for lunging correctly…keeping his body erect and in a symmetrical balance while he bends to the arc of the circle without leaning like a motorcycle. It will prevent muscle compromises throughout his body that could cause soreness. I continue to use the “Elbow Pull” with each new stage of training to help him maintain his good posture throughout the different tasks. It is a supportive device and when he has problems with his posture, it will become tight. He can “lean” against it for a few strides without going totally out of good posture which gives him relief from trying to hold his good posture, which is often difficult in the beginning. When he is again able to hold his good posture, the aid becomes loose all over. Even people have problems maintaining good posture without the reminder of a book on their head until it becomes more habitual.
None of us were born in good posture. It is something that must be taught. If we are allowed to “slouch” our posture, it WILL create soreness and physical problems over time, especially when we get much older. After Lunging in good posture for several months, the equine’s habitual way of going will be changed. He will begin to travel in good posture automatically. Changing habits takes a long time of repetitive behavior to evolve into a new habitual way of acting. As you teach your body through these stages to stay in sync with your equine’s steps, YOUR body becomes more in tune with his way of going and prepares you to be a better rider. This is all a matter of re-programming brain-muscle impulses. The equine will be Ground Driven in the “Elbow Pull” as he adjusts to learning rein cues, and when the weight of the rider is finally added, it is advisable to ride in the “Elbow Pull” until it remains loose all the time. When it does, you can be sure he is strong in his core balance and truly ready to support the rider in any kind of athletic pursuit. The equine learns to carry the rider on top of an upward arc in their spine with the abdominal muscles engaged. This is the same as teaching people to use their whole body correctly and lift with their legs and not their backs. These kinds of exercises make sure that the animal travels symmetrically, allowing the joints to work as they were designed to do (according to the laws of physics) with no compromises, and promotes optimum function of their internal organs.
With an equine that is over two years old that has not had the benefit of developing core strength in good posture, it is advisable to first use the “Elbow Pull” during detailed and extensive Leading Lessons. Both on the flat ground and later over obstacles. An equine under two years of age will not need the “Elbow Pull” support while working on his way of going since repetitive habits have not yet been fully established. Lunge the equine in the Round Pen for several months until the animal exhibits an erect posture and self-body carriage habitually. When you finally begin riding, you should use the “Elbow Pull” while you are riding our Hourglass Pattern under saddle as he adjusts to the added weight and new balance. When the “Elbow Pull” is adjusted correctly and the equine is in good posture, it will not put any pressure on the animal at all. When he is out of good posture, it puts pressure on the poll, the bit rings, behind the forearms and over the back. He will go back to his good posture as soon as he is able in order to release the pressure points.
Place the “Elbow Pull” over the poll, through the snaffle bit rings, between the animal’s front legs and over the back, then snap the two ends to a surcingle D-ring or D-rings on the saddle you are using. It should be adjusted so he can only raise his head approximately 3-4 inches above the level of the withers (just before he hollows his neck and back). The “Elbow Pull” needs to be adjusted loosely enough so that he can relieve the pressure at the poll, bit rings, elbows and back without having to drop his head below the withers. When lunging, if the “Elbow Pull” is correctly adjusted and he still wants to carry his nose to the ground, encourage him with the whip to speed him up a bit. This will encourage him to engage his hindquarters and raise his head into the correct position. The only way he can really go forward with his nose to the ground is if the hindquarters are not engaged. As soon as the hindquarters are engaged, he will have to raise his head to the correct position to maintain his balance. When being led in the “Elbow Pull,” lowering the head is not a problem because you will have control of the lead rope attached to a ring underneath his noseband (not attached to the bit!). Doing stretching-down exercises during leading training helps to stretch the spine and alleviate any soreness that could be developing with the new postural position. Breaking old habitual muscle positions can cause soreness to begin with, but as the better posture becomes more evolved, it also becomes much more comfortable (as it does in humans).
In the Round Pen, the “Elbow Pull” helps the animal learn to travel in good equine posture without the added weight of a rider first. In doing so, it increases his core strength and the ability for him to carry a more balanced posture of his own volition. The added weight of the rider under saddle will challenge the animal again to maintain this good posture. This will take further strengthening of the muscles. The “Elbow Pull” will keep the animal in the correct posture while carrying the rider, so he doesn’t ever build muscle out of balance and out of good equine posture. When you do this, you are changing old habitual movement into good equine posture and a balanced way of moving. This eventually (after two years) will become his habitual way of moving and playing, even during turnout.
Your equine should stay in the “Elbow Pull” when working for two years to make sure that the muscles are indeed conditioned around correct equine posture through correct repetition. This means that when your year of Lunging, then Ground Driving is over, and he begins to work with a rider or while being driven, you would still use the “Elbow Pull” to help him stay in good posture for another year with the added weight of the rider on his back. If driving your equine, you should also use it during the first two years in your driving arena to promote good equine driving posture and engagement of the hindquarters while pulling. This assures that the muscles are becoming correctly and symmetrically strong (supporting the skeleton), over a balanced and physically aligned frame.
The “Elbow Pull” postural aid does not pull their heads down. Rather, it gives them full range of motion (up, down, and sideways), but keeps them from raising their heads so high that they hollow their back and neck during initial training. It is a fully self-correcting restraint that gives them something to lean on when they are not yet strong enough in the core (elements that support the skeletal frame) to maintain their ideal balance. It encourages them to step well underneath their body, round their back upward from head to tail and puts the spine in a position to allow space between the vertebrae (and avoid “Kissing Spine”) and to prevent the rider from injuring their spine (according to the laws of physics). The “Elbow Pull” provides support much like a balance bar does for a beginning ballet dancer, and the principles of good posture are the same as with humans. Repetition and consistency during training can change habitual bad posture to habitual good posture over a long period of time, usually about two years. Good posture and correct movement can enhance longevity by as much as 5-10 years, enable internal organs to operate efficiently and prevent arthritis and other compromises that can create soreness in the body.
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