Mule Lovers of Colorado showed True Grit and perseverance in their acceptance to put on a mule show at the Colorado Classic Horse Show held in Denver on April 26, 1986. Notice of the invitation to show mules at the Classic was given only a month in advance. Still, these undaunted mule lovers were able to band together and put on an impressive show, despite the short notice. Over 40 mules were exhibited, with the proceeds going to the Colorado Heart Association. The mules were shown in the elite company of Arabian and Appaloosa horses. At the beginning of the show, the skepticism of the horse people was fairly apparent, but it wasn’t too long before their skepticism turned to awe and admiration. The mules were not what they had expected. They were clean, shiny and extremely well mannered. Mules made many new friends that day!
Much of what mules do today is a first for mules publicly, but they were able to claim a first in the equine world at the Colorado Classic. In the horse world in this country, one generally shows either English or Western, but the mule people have elected to open doors and accept many different riding styles in their shows via the Open Pleasure class. At the Colorado Classic, Sally McLean, astride her husband’s mule, Bucko exhibited the Australian mode of riding, complete with Australian clothing and tack. The man from Snowy River would have been proud and had he known mules a little better, he may have preferred using one in the film. His ride down the cliff would certainly have been more secure!
In spite of some chiding and jokes, these mule lovers put on a whale of a show, successfully turning heads for the overall favorable promotion of mules everywhere. They are to be duly congratulated. We would also like to thank those who were responsible for having enough faith in mules to have extended the invitation to participate in one of the largest horse shows in Colorado for the benefit of such a worthy charity. I can only hope that the future will bring many more mules!
AWARDENTRYNAME OF ANIMALSHOWN BYOWNER
Class 325: Mules up to 52” 3 years & over
1094 Miss Minnie Mae Sue Moore Cee Wolf, Littleton, Co
1082 Nutmeg Cindy Brink Zell Brink, Ft. Collins, Co.
1074 LJ Lee Schweizer Lee Schweizer, Larkspur, Co.
1081 Daffney Nicole Hinojosa Zell Brink, Ft. Collins, Co.
Class 327: Mules over 58” 3 year & over
1017 Rambling Rose Diane Walston Walston, Longmont, Co.
854 Mae Bea C.T Meredith Hodges M. Hodges, Loveland , Co.
1072 Maggie Danny Langston Danny Langston, Boulder,Co.
1080 Nifty Zell Brink Zell Brink, Ft. Collins, Co.
1063 Dummy Ruth Jarrett Larry Jarrett, Franktown, Co.
Class 331: Youth Showmanship
1096 Frijole‘s Dixie Belle Leslie Basque Sharon Anthony, Col, Springs, Co.
1062 Jill Crystal Nordyke Larry Jarrett, Franktown, Co.
Not all mules are fortunate enough to be raised so that they gain confidence and trust. These mules need to be approached as if they were young foals just beginning their training. To begin their training, you must first be able to catch them.
There is probably nothing more infuriating than having a mule that you can’t easily catch whenever you would like. The young mule that has been introduced to the halter at an early age can pose a problem, just like the mule that has had no halter training at all. The reasons for their evasive behavior and the intensity of resistance are different, however. The mule that has been handled will periodically attempt to assert his dominance over you with a playful yet evasive attitude, while the mule that has not been handled will react out of fear and suspicion. You can deal with both of these mules in the same manner to produce positive results, but the one reacting fearfully could become aggressive and potentially dangerous because he feels a need to protect himself from you. The one that has been handled will seldom be as aggressive. He may kick at you, but he probably won’t touch you intentionally because he has learned that this is bad manners. Be careful, because the fearful and aggressive mule will most likely connect with his target.
When a mule is being evasive, it is fairly obvious that his attention is not totally on you, and in order for him to be obedient, he must be attentive to you. If you have observed mares and foals, you have noticed the mare nuzzling, bumping and pushing her baby into obedience. As the foal matures, he learns the limits of his behavior from his dam, and sometimes she has to get pretty rough to get her point across. Once she does, however, the young mule learns to check his behavior with her at regular intervals. For instance, while curiously investigating, he will check the object, then his dam. His attention then returns to the object of his curiosity. It is this kind of attentiveness that you wish to cultivate in your mule. This can be accomplished with a relatively simple procedure. The only requirements in the game are patience and persistence.
First, put your mule into a reasonably small pen, preferably with square corners because this will give you more of an edge. If you are right handed, hold your halter and lead in your left hand and approach the mule from the side, toward the point of his shoulder. Never approach from directly in front or from behind, because he cannot see you clearly and you may frighten him. When he does move away from you, you want him to track to the right if you are right handed. If you are left-handed, the situation is reversed. Upon your approach, mentally record the distance between you and your mule when he begins to move away. This is his space, or safety zone. You will use this distance to herd him into a corner and allow him to stop.
When he does stop, he will be looking for a route of escape. He may push his head through the fence and lean, or he may just dash back and forth in the corner. Whatever he does, keep your distance and allow him to settle before moving to the next step. If you are in a round pen, a lot more back-and-forth walking (or running) will be required to get him to settle in one spot and is not advisable.
Next, with the halter in your left hand, take a step toward his right shoulder, holding your left arm out so that it discourages him from backing out of the situation. Extend your right hand toward his head and neck. If he does anything other than face you with his head (i.e., backs up kicking, bolts forward, etc.), stop out of kicking range, smack him once on the rump with the soft cotton lead rope and say, “Face me!” If you can’t keep him in the corner and he gets by you, just follow him and set up the same situation again, and then repeat the steps.
He will probably get nervous when you smack him. Take a step back and allow him his space so he can settle down—he cannot face you if he is truly frightened. Continue this procedure until he stands still and turns his head to you. Then reward him with a reassuring “Good mule!” and offer an oats reward. If he faces you with his head but his rear is still straight to you, lightly touch him a second time on his hip with the soft cotton lead rope to encourage him to move over. If he doesn’t move, touch him again a little harder until he complies.
Once he has learned to stop and face you, you can move in more closely (as described earlier), talking softly and offering more rewards. It will take a few times before he will allow you to touch him, so be very patient. When he does, stroke him first along his neck, and then slowly work your way up to his head. Keep your left arm holding the halter out far enough so that he will not back out of the situation.
Once he settles, bring the halter and lead rope around behind his rear and to his neck on the left side. Wrap the fingers of your left hand securely around the noseband of the halter and slip your right arm under and around your mule’s neck. Then step to the left side of your mule, just in front of his shoulder. Adjust your arms so that you can hold his nose with your left thumb and slip the noseband over the nose. He will probably try to jerk away, but this position will give you the best leverage. If he does manage to get away, smack him on the rump with the soft cotton lead rope once more and repeat the entire procedure.
While you are trying to get the halter on him, move calmly and quietly, and speak in reassuring tones. If he allows you to halter him, reward him with the oats reward and gentle strokes on his neck. This work in the smaller area does transmit to the larger areas—you have taught him to submit rather than flee when cornered. There may be days when he still makes you chase a little because he needs to maintain some self-esteem, and sometimes he may just be playful. He will not evade you for nearly as long, and it will be a lot easier to catch him. Just remember to give a lot of positive reinforcement for compliant behavior.
Miniature horses, donkeys and mules all have one thing in common; everyone else is taller than they are! That makes eye contact with the trainer very difficult if not impossible for them. As the saying goes, the eyes are the window to the soul so it is understandable that they would become anxious if they are unable to look into a person’s eyes to decide whether they are friend or foe. I have five miniature equines: a mini horse named Mirage, a mini mule named Franklin, a mini molly mule named Francis, and two mini donkeys named Augie and Spuds. To help them all succeed and thrive, I’ve structured my training program for them based on the same one I use for all of my other equines, with one important modification. With safety always as my first priority, I work with my minis from a lower position whenever it’s safe to do so. That way, I can make eye contact with them, and I make certain they are always lavishly rewarded with an oats reward for their compliance. The results have been amazing! I’ve received total cooperation from them almost all of the time.
None of my minis were born at my ranch, so I knew that they would each first need to explore their surroundings a little at a time, and would also need ample time to get used to my staff and me. Mirage, the miniature horse, was my first mini. It wasn’t long after I acquired him that I acquired Franklin, the mini mule, who quickly became Mirage’s buddy. Since both Mirage and Franklin had previous training and because minis seem to accept training more willingly when done with a partner, we did all of Mirage’s and Franklin’s groundwork lessons together and, true to form, they learned very quickly because they were allowed to be together.
Several years later I rescued Francis, a miniature molly mule that was about as schizophrenic as they get. We penned Francis next to Mirage and Franklin for several months before I even attempted to catch her and begin her lessons alongside Mirage and Franklin. Giving her ample time to explore her own pen and to realize this was to be her sanctuary did wonders for her attitude and, after two years of very low-key training, she was able to perform calmly when we were filming the groundwork segment for the DVD, Equus Revisited.
Wherever I went during their lessons, I led all three minis together, and Francis learned to relax and comply with my wishes. I allowed her plenty of time to settle into her new surroundings before I ever asked her to come with Mirage and Franklin to the work station for grooming. The first time I was able to make real eye contact with her was during a walk we took in the hayfield in the middle of the summer. I took all three minis out to the middle of the hayfield, sat down while holding all three lead ropes and we experienced our first “picnic” together. Francis thought I was pretty scary when I first sat down, but she relaxed when she saw that it didn’t phase Mirage or Franklin. Just like human children, all equines learn better when not isolated (taken away from their equine friends) and made to feel that they’re being punished. Keeping this in mind, I lunged all three minis together in the round pen and after lunging, I tied two of them outside of the round pen while I did individual lunging and ground-driving lessons with each one individually. Because of this slow, respectful training and keeping her with her friends while she learned, Francis has made remarkable progress over the years.
I think it is critically important that all equines have a space they can call their own—their personal oasis of comfort and privacy—so when I got my mini donkeys, Augie and Spuds, I decided that the first thing they would learn about was their living quarters or, as I like to call it, their “bedroom.”
When you go to your mini’s pen, politely stand by the gate and ask “permission” to enter by simply calling his or her name and then waiting for a response. Your mini will most likely come over to you and “invite” you in by showing curiosity and giving you a welcoming look. As you can guess, it is probably your fanny pack full of oats that is really attractive to them, but they will soon learn that you come with the oats so they will no doubt be happy to see you. This is the very first step in reward training.
Begin your relationship with your mini by having a “picnic” with him. Sit yourself down on the ground in the middle of his pen and start playing with a handful of oats while you wait for him to come to you. While you have your picnic in the pen, use just your hands for contact and make sure you have plenty of crimped oats (I use a fanny pack full of oats). Because picnics are supposed to be fun and not intimidating, allow your mini to come and go as he pleases within the confines of his pen. When he becomes confident about coming to you while you’re sitting down, reward him for coming over and interacting with you. Be prepared for the possibility of doing dozens of lessons like this—however long it takes for your mini to build trust in you and feel comfortable. As your relationship progresses, you may try picking up his feet and stroking his legs (which is a good way to prepare your mini for the farrier visits that will come later). There are no expectations and there is no pressure to do anything more…it’s just your mini and you and time for bonding.
When your mini is comfortable with you coming into his pen and interacting with him, the next step is to ask him to go into a bigger turnout area, where you should repeat the same simple lessons. Now that your mini can be loose in a larger space, ask him to come to join you for another picnic. After a few times, bring a hairbrush with you (It’s the most efficient brush to use on donkey hair).
When you sit down and he comes over for the picnic, show him the brush and let him inspect it, and then reward him for inspecting the brush. When you introduce the brush to his body, do so by first petting him, and then follow where your hand goes with the brush. This has a calming effect and also helps you to identify the more sensitive areas on his body. Always start with his neck, where there’s substantial fatty tissue and no real sensitive areas until you reach the shoulder. During this “playtime,” you can get your mini used to strange things by allowing him to wear your hat. This is an extension of the imprinting (touch) your mini should have received as a foal, only with a foreign object instead of your hands. Remember, imprinting is not just for foals at birth. It is the way you will continue to learn about how to touch your mini throughout his life and how you learn which areas are more sensitive than others. This sets the stage for how you gauge your approach when touching your mini both with your hands and with foreign objects such as grooming equipment and tack at all levels of training.
A halter doesn’t even come into play until after grooming in the pen is easily achieved and your mini will follow you to and from the pen without the halter. When it is time to introduce the halter, bring it with you into the pen for your picnic. Do the brushing and then show your mini the halter while you sit on the ground. When he sniffs the halter, he should be rewarded. Once he is unafraid of the halter, hold it on both sides of the noseband, feed your mini some oats, and then gently push the noseband of the halter over his nose and then take it off, rewarding him again. At this point you’ve got all kinds of oats in your lap and your mini’s got his head down, eating the oats, so when you put the noseband on again, just reach over his neck, grab the strap of his halter on the other side, bring it behind his ears and fasten it. If done correctly, this should not bother him. Then reward him with more oats, pet him as he complies and say, “Oh, how good is that?!” You can then take the halter off again and end the first lesson there.
Once your mini is used to having his halter put on, let him graze while supervised in a larger pasture area with his halter on while he drags the lead rope behind him. When you want him to walk away from you, simply stand up and let him go off on his own. After a few minutes, approach him again, grab the end of his lead rope and sit down again. You can give a little tug, say his name and ask him to “Come.” He should come easily when you gently tug on his lead rope. This action makes him look at you and think, “Oh, my human is sitting down again, so I’m going to come over and get more oats!” As he comes toward you, take up the slack on his approach. Once he comes to you easily, you can stand up and ask him to come while you’re standing up and reward him for it. And that’s how to teach a mini to follow you.
During your picnics, put on and take off the halter over several lessons and until he is completely calm before you try to halter your mini at the gate in preparation for leaving the pen. He must be willing to come while you are standing, and he should allow you to put on the halter at the gate using the same rewarding techniques as you use while sitting down. When he accepts the halter at the gate, the next task is to learn to properly lead through a gate and make your way to the work station for the first time. (See “Gate Training” in Part 1 of my DVD series, Equus Revisited.)
When grooming at the work station, start working your way around your animal from front to back, but ignore grooming his head for a while until he’s really comfortable with you. When you finally get to the head, you will have to change to a grooming tool called a dandy brush. First let him see and sniff the dandy brush, and then begin with the forehead. Brush upward toward his ears with the direction of the hair on his forehead and then, if he stands quietly, give him a reward. Don’t try to do his cheeks right away—give him time in the same grooming session to get used to the feel of the brush before you try to brush his cheeks, and make sure he sees the brush coming at him. Anything he sees too abruptly with his peripheral vision can potentially startle and spook him.
Breaking things down into little do-able steps seems like a long process in the beginning, but as your mini begins to understand the reasoning behind your approach, his reactions to tasks will become calmer, more automatic and more natural for him. When you allow your mini to learn to follow your lead without the halter in the beginning of each task, learning to follow you on the lead rope will be a lot easier for him, and when you finally move on to more specific tasks in training, he will oblige you much more willingly. In Part 2 of “Getting Down With Minis,” I will cover how to approach the tasks necessary for formal training.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
Good morning ladies and gentlemen. My name is Meredith Hodges, this is my husband, Gary, and my daughter, Dena. We own and operate the Lucky Three Mule Ranch in Loveland, where we raise and train high quality mules and donkeys. We have brought two mules with us today that will demonstrate some of the things that mules of today are doing. In the past, mules were used primarily for packing, pulling and farming. Our modern mules are doing much more. Using top quality mares in mule breeding has noticeably increased the capability of an otherwise maligned animal. The combination of the strength and intelligence of the jack and the athletic ability and beauty of the horse has produced a superior performer in the mule. Before we get on to the exhibition….
First, this morning, we would like to present Meredith, riding her 16.2 hand Quarter Horse mule, Lucky Three Sundowner, exhibiting the discipline of Dressage through a First Level Test! Sundowner has recently taken the step up to First Level after spending 18 months at Training Level, learning to travel in a cadenced, rhythmic, and balanced fashion. At first glance, this pattern may look rather simple and many of you might think, “Oh, that’s simple!” But I challenge you to actually get out and try to do this. You will find, as is the case with many things… that it is not as easy as it looks. Many hours of training have gone into this animal in order to make this mule look as smooth, balanced, and rhythmic as he is. Though he is under the rider’s direct control, he must appear that he is doing of his own accord.
Coming up the centerline, the animal should reflect straightness and smoothness of gait with a respectful halt and salute to the judge at the center of the arena. The object of Dressage is the harmonious development of the physique and ability of the equine. As a result, it makes the equine calm, supple, loose, and flexible, but also confident, attentive, and keen, thus achieving perfect understanding with his rider.
As Sundowner moves across the diagonal, he is asked to lengthen his stride and proceed with more determination and energy, then return to the sitting trot submissively and calmly. Mules have a very strong flight reflex and it is only through an understanding between mule and rider that this type of movement can be achieved smoothly. A mule is capable of running through any bit known to man, so it is pointless to try to force this kind of submission. It must come slowly through meticulous training and practice.
A halt for five seconds followed by a walk across the diagonal on a loose rein shows the judge that this animal is indeed relaxed and responsive to his rider’s commands, and that there exists a true repose between them. Mules are quite intelligent and can memorize patterns very quickly. For this reason, the patterns themselves are not trained in. Lucky Three Sundowner won the title in 1984 for World Champion Bridle-Reined mule as a four year old, but it has only been recently through his Dressage training that he has become submissive and genuinely willing to comply.
Next into the arena we have Meredith driving Lucky Three Mae Bea C.T., a 15 HH molly mule. Driving used to be a matter of necessity rather than pleasure. There was not much need to have the animal do much more than go forward at all three gaits, with the trot being most prevalent, and to back and turn. Mules today are being taught to drive with finesse through training in Dressage. Driving classes that are offered in the shows include Pleasure Driving, Obstacle Driving, Drive & Ride, and Cross Country. All of these classes require a good communication and understanding between mule and driver.
As in Dressage under saddle, the mule learns to go forward with a free and relaxed stride, responsive to control through the reins and whip. Moving in a balanced frame allows the mule to be responsive to any change in gait or direction. The Dressage driving mule is able to bend in the shafts to follow the arc of a circle around turns. This type of driving takes many hours of meticulous training, but will result in a happy calm, quiet, obedient individual.
When the mule is in balance, he is comfortable with his own body and better able to cope with outside distractions or stress. He is better able to stay quiet enough to work his way through tight obstacles and is ultimately able to move each foot at the request of his driver.
Mae Bea C.T. currently holds the Reserve World Champion Driving Mule title and has for two years. She is only six years old, and as a three year old held the World Champion title for Green Driving. In addition to driving, Mae Bea C.T. has captured over 25 titles in Halter, Western Pleasure, English Pleasure, and Reining. She is currently working at Training Level Dressage and Jumping. She is really quite extraordinary in her accomplishments at such a young age.
At the beginning of this demonstration, I talked a little about those of us who wish to improve on our equestrian skills, but who is more important than our young people!? My daughter, Dena, is riding Mae Bea C.T. today to let you know that there are young people out there who also prefer mules.
Dena will first show you a demonstration of Training Level Test 1 in Dressage. The test itself looks simple enough, but I must again tell you there is more to it than meets the eye. At Training Level, the animal is expected to learn to move forward in a free and cadenced fashion. The movements are kept simple to allow the rider to work on such things as forward motion, cadence, rhythm, and directional changes. The animal learns to circle properly, in an upright position, and begins to learn submissiveness to the bit. By not throwing too many things at the animal all at once, we are allowed to work on these things in a natural progression that will facilitate an obedient, free-moving, and calm animal. As the training becomes the animal, the animal itself becomes a more dependable and pleasurable mount.
Jumping is definitely one of the mules’ fortes. The muscling on a mule is equivalent to that of a ballet dancer, and he is so nimble, he can jump over his head from a standstill! Training mules to jump in a smooth fashion must be trained in just as in horses. Many years ago, a mule named Hambone out-jumped every horse in this country. It was at that time that mules were banned from the A.H.S.A. competitions. I would imagine that there were some folks’ egos who just couldn’t take it… being out-jumped by an animal that was supposed to be used for farming and such… but today, it is really not the case anymore. Mules are being trained properly and are exhibiting some incredible skills. Because of the difficulty in training the mules, equestrians who ride mules are faced with a real challenge and should be congratulated for their efforts. We are all keepers of the art. I hope that by letting you see a little of what they can do here today, that some of the old sayings about mules can be put to rest and in its place, arise tolerance and support of a truly marvelous and versatile animal! Thank you very much and good luck with your show.
“You have to be crazy to draw mules!” At least that was a popular opinion, but one Bonnie Shields chose to ignore. “I love mules. That’s why I draw ‘em.” It’s as simple as that. Born and raised in Southern Indiana, Bonnie wasn’t around mules until she moved to Tennessee in 1965. But, the meeting has proven to be remarkable. A longstanding member of the Cowboy Cartoonists Association, her wide variety of “mule art” can be viewed at numerous venues: mule and draft horse shows, Western arts and crafts shows, Western trade shows and on the internet at her website at www.Bonnieshields.com. Her talents include drawing, painting and sculpture. She has done a wide variety from ink drawings to acrylic painting to bronze sculpture, from commissioned work to originals, all revering the mule. She has also written a multitude of articles for such publications as The Brayer, a bimonthly publication put out by the American Donkey & Mule Society, Mules and More Magazine, Western Mule Magazine and the Bishop Mule Days program.
Bonnie Shields has been my friend and illustrator for over forty years! I became a fan even before I met her when I bought one of her many mule-team portraits. I truly admired her attention to detail. Even animals are as different in their faces and bodies as we are, and she captures those details with artistic precision! Instantly, I became an avid and devoted fan of all things Bonnie Shields! I was completely thrilled when we actually encountered each other with this common bond at Bishop Mule Days in 1981! A happier, funnier, kinder person that anyone could ever meet…that was Bonnie Shields! Two women, intensively afflicted with terminal “Mule Fever,” THOSE were Bonnie Shields and Meredith Hodges! Our friendship was instant and has been a long-lasting journey, and a legacy of loving Longears!
Bonnie Shields’ art is diverse and completely enrapturing. In the numerous portraits she does, you can really tell just who you are looking at whether it is mules, other animals or human “characters!” Her love and attention to detail is in every piece of her art whatever the medium she chooses: illustrations, sculpture, water colors, acrylic paintings or pencil drawings. Her sculpture is always anatomically correct. I commissioned Bonnie to do two life-sized pieces of bronze sculpture for me. The first was of my Sire Supreme, Little Jack Horner, jumping over a four-foot brick wall. The piece was dubbed “A Leap of Faith” because he had to have faith in me and I had to have faith in him that a donkey could actually accomplish this daring feat. During JASPER CELEBRATION DAY in 2005, when we launched our Jasper The Mule children’s book series, this life-sized bronze was the first piece of life-sized sculpture to grace the grounds in the South Park of the LOVELAND LONGEARS MUSEUM & SCULPTURE PARK at the Lucky Three Ranch!
Bonnie’s second contribution to the LOVELAND LONGEARS MUSEUM & SCULPTURE PARK at Lucky Three Ranch, titled “Friends,” was a depiction of the three main characters in the Jasper the Mule children’s series: Kylie, Moxie and Jasper. This sculpture was strategically placed at the entrance to the North Barn where the Champion Mules of the Lucky Three Ranch were housed. The people on our tours are always captivated, and smile broadly, when they spot these animated characters exhibited in bronze! Bonnie was my illustrator for the Jasper the Mule series, so we both did a book signing tour together for the launch of the first book that included: Nashville, Dallas (Children’s Hospital and several TV & Radio appearances, and book signings), National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas and Los Angeles. Those were exciting times!
Bonnie’s sense of humor is unique and infectious! Mules and More Magazinepublished her stories, mostly involving mules and their appearance in history with their human counterparts. They were always lively and entertaining! What is certain to end in disaster, usually takes you on a long journey that ultimately results in compromise and wide grins. Of course, this is what living with Longears is all about. Either you have a good sense of humor and enjoy the ride, or you DON’T. If you don’t, the joke’s on you! With each individual mule owner, the stories are different, but our introductions to Longears are basically the same. Most humans are not always ready for the pranks of their mules and donkeys! This is the source of Bonnie’s amazing sense of humor with her numerous cartoons and whimsical paintings. Bonnie did a classic painting just for me titled, “I Don’t Know…Maybe I’m Overorganized!” She sure knows me well! Even her way of spelling words adds to the charm of her work. For instance, “sure,” she spells “shure!” My mother once told me I should help her with her spelling. I told her that even Bonnie’s spelling was unique about Bonnie! It is all about “Artistic License!” Then my mother asked if she ever got dressed up when she went OUT? I replied, “Of course! She wears her WHITE overalls for those kinds of events! She DID get some pretty snazzy BLACK overalls from the Draft Horse Club for ‘Black Tie’ events!”
Many of Bonnie’s humorous paintings are a mixture of adverse situations, general chaos and the humor that is found in lieu of anger in her Western montages. At a loss for words, there is nothing you can do but stare and then quietly giggle to yourself! Her rendition of Caboose, Kansas, titled “PEW,” is one of those that could engage you for HOURS! It is one of many works of art that we proudly display at the LOVELAND LONGEARS MUSEUM & SCULPTURE PARK at Lucky Three Ranch! As her biggest fan, my Bonnie Shields Gallery is quite extensive!
Bonnie’s art is diverse, widespread and is on display in a vast number of mediums. She has numerous ceramic statues, small bronzes, painted wooden statues and painted bronzes. During her career, she has attended a wide variety of Trade Shows across our country to display and sell T-shirts, greeting cards, calendars, jewelry, originals, prints and books that she has illustrated. Although Bonnie is now limiting attendance to only her favorite trade shows close to home, she is still getting requests to illustrate books and do interviews about her work. Bonnie has illustrated numerous books from a lot of different authors over her 50+ year career. Even the more serious books still have a “tinge” of humor and are certainly not without “character!” She and I have always been fans of author, Marguerite Henry (Misty of Chincoteague Treasury and much more). As a last request before she passed, Marguerite Henry asked Bonnie to illustrate her last book, Brown Sunshine of Sawdust Valley. This wonderful opportunity really touched Bonnie’s heart! This book will live on as one of her greatest accomplishments.
A lovely coffee table book, produced by Lucky Three Productions, L.L.C., is the most complete collection on record of Bonnie’s numerous artistic accomplishments. Longears lover or not, you will be amazed at the expansive diversity of her work and you will be amply entertained by her unmatched sense of humor! This is a MUST HAVE for any library!
It has been both an honor and a privilege to be asked to do this coffee table book all about my best friend, Bonnie Shields, the Tennessee Mule Artist! I am so glad that I kept everything she ever gave to me over the years and acquired such an extensive collection of her work. Doing this book to immortalize the career of my favorite half-assed artist was truly a labor of LOVE! She really DOES have a Legacy of Loving Longears!
Learning to go through a gate with respect and consideration for the handler is an important lesson for your equine to learn. Your considerate and consistent approach to retrieving him from his stall, pen or pasture can make all the difference in safety and pleasure for you both. This begins from the time you take him from his stall. Do not go into his area, but rather, ask him to come to you. If you have been consistent rewarding your equine from your fanny pack with the same oats he gets fed every evening, this should not pose a problem. The reason for feeding the oats in the evenings is so he is given the motivation to come back in during the spring months when pasture time must be limited. Feeding only grass hay in the morning gives him incentive to come to you to be haltered for lessons, as he knows his efforts will be rewarded with extra oats. Use verbal commands to “come on!” prefaced by his name. This reinforces his response to verbal commands and familiarity with his name. This will come in handy when you need to fetch him from a pen of multiple animals.
Going through a gate seems simple enough, but you can really get into trouble if it is not done correctly. Ask your mule to follow your shoulder to the gate and halt squarely, and then reward him (crimped oats) for standing quietly while you unlatch the gate. When going through the gate, if possible, the gate should always open away from you and your mule. When the gate is hinged on the left, transfer your lead line from your left hand (showmanship position) to your right hand, and open the gate with your left hand. Switch positions if the gate is hinged on the right, but always be sure to keep your body, rather than your mule’s body, closest to the gate. Ask your mule to walk through at your shoulder, to turn and face you on the other side of the gate, and to follow you as you close it. Then reward him again and latch the gate.
After latching the gate, turn back to your mule and reward him yet again for being patient and standing still while you latched the gate. This repetitive behavior through gates will teach him to stay with you and wait patiently instead of charging through, or pulling away from you. This is especially helpful when you are leading several animals at once. This way, you can get through a gate safely with as many animals as you choose to lead through together. Even if the gate is only two mules wide, you could lead as many as four through by simply lengthening the lead lines of the back pair, asking the first pair to come through first then encouraging the second pair to come through directly behind them before you turn back to the gate. When trained this way, your mules will all line up like little soldiers on the other side of the gate to receive their rewards. They will stand quietly while you latch the gate and will only proceed from the gate when you ask.
When you return your mule to a pen with other animals, wave the others away from the gate and return the mule to the pen the same way he was taken out. Lead your mule or mules through the gate, reward them, and then reward the others for staying back.
If you have any problems with kicking, carry a whip with you to keep the problem children at bay while you reward the others first. Do not vary this routine.
The repetition will build good habits. Once the others have learned that they cannot approach when you wave them away, and each mule knows the routine of going through the gate properly, and you want to take one animal from the herd, you can call his name, wave the others away with your hand, open the gate and allow him to come through and turn (receiving his reward, of course) to put on the halter. You never have to get in the middle of their sometimes-dangerous playfulness again, and your animals will all be easy to catch.
Most of the world’s calendars begin with New Year’s, but a mule lover’s calendar begins and ends with Bishop Mule Days held in Bishop, California, over Memorial Day weekend each year. This year marked the 17th Annual Mule Days Celebration with over 600 mules participating in everything from the parade to packing to steer roping and jumping. But Bishop Mule Days is more than just a mule show. It is an annual rendezvous of mule lovers from all over the world. It is an opportunity for these people to come together, exchange ideas, demonstrate their talents and pay their respects to the one animal most responsible for the building of this great country of ours – the mule!
Just as the mule has suffered great injustice to his character throughout the ages, so have his admirers and advocates. Stories and rumors have repeatedly portrayed the mule as an unattractive, stubborn creature, but modern day mule lovers have found that these rumors are simply not true. Fast breaking and gross impatience are probably the underlying reasons for such ignorant remarks. Mule lovers today are doing their level best to educate the general public about the true nature of the mule. The simple fact is that he’s generally better than the horse out of which he came, and much more personable!
It is said that hardship builds character and this is quite evident as you experience those around you at Bishop Mule Days. Despite chiding and jokes, mule lovers hold their heads high, yet they are humble. They are constantly insulted, yet ready to give assistance any time their assistance is needed. Above all, they give their hearts for the love of mules. You will never meet a nicer group of people. Several times champion mule Leading Lady, tied for World Champion Performance mule with Jord Ass Jean. “Leading Lady” was owned by Cliff Rich of Amarillo, Texas. Word got out that Cliff’s birthday was over Memorial Day weekend, so in the spirit of mule days, Cliff Rich was given a Happy Birthday party. We hope you enjoyed it, Cliff! Our congratulations to both you and your lovely “Leading Lady.”
The hard work and dedication of the owners, Dr. Robert and Debbie Miller and trainer of “Jord Ass Jean” was also quite apparent; she exhibited the grace and agility of a truly fine animal. Congratulations on tying for World Champion Performance Mule! It was well earned. Not to be outdone by horseracing, mule-racing fans cheered the victory of Cajun Queen, owned by J.P. Rogers, as the World Champion Running Mule. She was indeed a queen! Demonstrating speed and skill, the World Champion Packer was awarded to Tony Holdridge of the Red’s Meadows Pack Outfit. He did it so smoothly! The best for the best – good mules need a good farrier and Lee Green was where it’s at! Congratulations to our World Champion Farrier! Is it that wonderfully loud shirt, or was it the mule? Congratulations to Johnny Enos and Poco Streak, the 1986 World Champion Working Mule!
As more people are educated about mules, we see more participants in Bishop Mule Days. Ordinarily Bishop is a town of only 4000 people, but streets were lined with 50,000 spectators for the Mule Days Parade, the largest non-motorized parade in the world. In 1986, the parade consisted of 240 entries. Among those entries were real diehards such as the Vision Quest Wagon Train and Tindell Wagon Train. Both wagon trains travelled over 300 miles to take part in the Bishop Mule Days Celebration. The impressions they left along the way will probably go down in history. Once arrived, the young adults from Vision Quest gave us an extra-special treat with their multi-talented marching drill team. Our deepest thanks for their special contribution!
“Mule Fever” has finally reached Hollywood! Producers Skip Stephenson and directors from Dix Country Pictures joined thousands to celebrate Bishop Mule Days. They were searching for a mule to star in their new film, “Hey, Mule!” The choice could not have been an easy one, with over 600 mules from which to choose.
Sunday afternoon, Wadi, an Appaloosa mule, was chosen for the part. Congratulations, Wadi! In addition, Dix Country Pictures will also be putting together a documentary about the Bishop Mule Days Celebration. With their enthusiastic help, we should be able to reach more people than ever in praise of mules! In addition to the actual mule show, special events and people are an important part of Bishop Mule Days. The Governor of California, George Deukmejian participated in the parade and later held a press conference. Ted Dawson, award-winning sportscaster for KABC-PV Los Angeles, was honored as Grand Marshall for the Bishop Mule Days Parade. Struck with “Mule Fever,” enthusiastic Ted also participated in many mule events, with his memorable performance being in the musical tires class. Surely, it is a time he will never forget…and neither will we! Semi-truck pulls, steer packing, large hitch demonstrations, and races with eight to ten mules per wagon were just a few of many special events enjoyed by spectators that year.
All the way from Colorado, the Coors Belgian Hitch gave several impressive performances during the weekend show. Under the steady hand of Jim Hilgendorf, the Belgians exhibited an awesome display of power and grace. Monty Montana, 1978 Grand Marshall of the Mule Days Parade, returned to tantalize the crowd with his intricate rope tricks and trick riding, a wonderful contribution to Mule Days. Even the United States Armed Forces were represented at Bishop Mule Days – two were from the Mountain Warfare Training Center. Rumor has it that mules will still be replacing some modes of transportation in the more mountainous regions. The overall feeling is that mules would be more practical and economical for this type of use.
Each year, before the Saturday and Sunday evening performances, a very special lady, Nita Vick makes her contribution to Bishop Mule Days. Affectionately known as “Sarge,” she takes rookie volunteers and shapes them into the Bishop Mule Days Drill Team. No one would know from the actual performances that this team had the absolute minimum practice time, only one hour of practice before the performance on Saturday and only one hour before practice on Sunday! Their performance “Under the Flags” is a sight to see!
Tori Thompson, famed artist of animal portraits and editor of the “Mules” newsletter, is correct in saying that Bishop Mule Days is the most important American Association Show – it appeals to everyone in some way. Western cuisine, Western art shows and Western dances add to the overall picture of Bishop Mule Days. Fiddlers across America rosin up their bows for the Mule Days Fiddling Contest. As they wandered the grounds serenading the crowds, they were joined in harmony by singing donkeys and mules, and dancing exhibitions and spectators. A fun time was had by all! Bishop Mule Days is more than just a mule show. The area around Bishop is filled with mountain lakes and streams and offers backpacking and hiking, fishing, swimming and even skiing. Couple this with unique and spectacular entertainment and you have the opportunity for the time of your life! Memorial Day weekend is the beginning of the year for these maligned animals and the unique people who love them!
Bonnie Shields, Meredith Hodges and Jasper enjoyed yet another successful year at Bishop Mule Days! If you love Longears and you’ve never been, you need to experience the largest mule show in the world! Over 700 mules compete in 181 classes…everything from Dressage to cattle classes. It is truly a site to behold!
Bishop Mule Days began as a packer’s rendezvous and some things never change. Old friends and new congregate for a week of fun and frolic with Longears! Newt Elsdon is living proof that no matter how old, this 90+ year old man is still willing to make the trek to see family and friends each year…and one of his favorite friends is Jasper the Mule!!
Jasper, Bonnie Shields leading “half-ass” Tennessee Mule artist and Meredith Hodges once again rode on the Priefert wagon from Texas in the Bishop Mule Days parade on Saturday pulled by six gorgeous Percheron draft horses that they call Rolling Thunder!
This year’s Grand Marshall was producer of RFD-TV’s Beyond Rodeo and Country Western singer Susie Dobbs. Video Mike filmed her interview with Bonnie and Meredith on Thursday morning and on Thursday evening her band opened the concert with the famous Lonestar band! Ask anyone who’s been…there’s nothing like Bishop Mule Days!
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
There is a lot more to the Bishop Mule Days World Championships than one might expect. Bishop Mule Days is not just a Memorial Day Weekend event. It’s a cultural experience! Located in the scenic Eastern High Sierras, the city of Bishop hosts not only the largest mule and donkey show in the world, but encourages artists and craftsmen from all over the world to come together for nearly a week in celebration of the human values we all hold dear – friendship, respect, happiness, appreciation, and love of the wondrous gifts of life! The mule has been the catalyst for bringing all these special people together in an exhilarating celebration of life’s best efforts.
Over 600 mules competed in more than 100 different events, including packing scrambles, English and Western classes and games, mule shoeing and comedy and specialty acts. As mules have progressed in their unique abilities, the art of Dressage has been added to the agenda. Lucky Three Sundowner of the Lucky Three Ranch in Loveland, Colorado, was invited to exhibit his grace and ability toward dance in an exhibition during the Sunday afternoon performance. He was the highest level Dressage mule to perform at Bishop this year. Lucky Three Mae Bea C.T. preceded the exhibition by winning the Mule Jumping class with no faults!
Many of the English, Western and Driving classes are held Thursday and Friday before the main weekend. Then on Saturday morning the weekend show opens with the world’s largest non-motorized parade, comprised of hundreds of mules and horses in pack strings, hauling loads and riders on a two-mile trek down Bishop’s Main Street. Thousands of fans line the streets with cameras and videos to capture this once in a lifetime extraordinary parade! Each year, Bob Talmadge exhibits his latest creation in hoof-pusher vehicles. This year it was a shocking pink golf cart, complete with canopy. The cart was pushed by Old Man Rivers and rolled down the street carrying “The Farmer,” Bob Talmadge, and “The Farmer’s Daughter,” Dena Hodges.
During the Saturday and Sunday performances, Bobby Tanner and friends reenacted the old 20-mule team hitch exhibition with mules that had only been hitched together since the preceding Monday afternoon! Such skill and Mulemanship is a sight to see…for sure! Another skillful performance was demonstrated by the Bishop Mule Days Drill Team comprised of exhibitors who practiced only once before each performance over the weekend under the strict and skillful command of Nita Vick, fondly known as “Sarge.” Pack scrambles, chariot races and comedy packing kept the audience in suspense and stitches with their wild and crazy antics. Rodeo announcer Bob Tallman added still more fun and excitement to the weekend events with his outlandish quips and stories. Other highlights included the Country Western dances on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, preceded on Thursday night by hit songwriter Michael Martin Murphy, who captured the audiences with hit tunes from past, present, and future recording albums. Western artists, craftsmen and salesmen displayed their wares throughout the weekend with a wide variety of items and art from past to present day. Bishop merchants store windows were painted in celebration of “Mules” and mule memorabilia could be found everywhere!
The mule and donkey exhibitors did a remarkable job in showing all the things that Longears are capable of doing! We truly have a lot of very gifted and talented people in our industry and everyone there played an important role in the success of the entire show. They are all to be congratulated for their efforts! We proudly honor this year’s World Champions:
WORLD CHAMPION WESTERN PERFORMANCE MULE:
Dolly Barton Vince Silverman Norco, Ca.
Kitty’s Maybelline Pat Mitchell Sun Valley, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION COW WORKING MULE:
Clementine Walter Nunn Brookshire, Tx.
Judy Tucker Slender Arcadia, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION ENGLISH PERFORMANCE MULE:
Empress Josephine Lou Moore Templeton, Ca.
Dolly Barton Vince Silverman Norco, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION GYMKHANA MULE:
Miss Kitty T Von Twitchell Marysville, Ca.
Booger’s Chiquita Jerry Villanes Coffeeville, Ks.
WORLD CHAMPION RUNNING MULE:
Loretta Lynn Mayfield & Long Phoenix, Arizona
Cajun Queen Neil Stewart Las Vegas, Nev.
WORLD CHAMPION GREEN MULE ENGLISH:
Sissy Bars Bill Krol Phoenix, Ar.
Asstounding Betay Paullada Tarzana, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION GREEN MULE WESTERN:
Lisa B. Jiggs Danielle Tallon Bakersfield, Ca.
Trissy’s Juliette Pat Mitchell Sun Valley, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION FUN MULE:
Ima Kisha Ben Strickland Aguanga, Ca.
K.T.’s Elvira Tom Stokes Nampa, Id.
WORLD CHAMPION PACKER:
Jim Brumfield Bishop, Ca.
John Kaede Bishop, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION MULE SHOER:
Mark Paine Bishop, Ca.
Porter Green Yucapa, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION PACK TEAM:
Rock Creek Pack Station Bishop, Ca.
San Joaquin Back Country Women Clovis, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION DRIVER:
George Lane Lancaster, Ca.
Ruth Jacobsen Cayucos, Ca.
WORLD CHAMPION JACK:
Rooster Geraldine Hickman San Diego, Ca.
Sunrise Rio Kathy Dusart Colfax, Ca.
HARD LUCK MULE SKINNER:
Rick Meyerhoff Mammoth lakes
WORLD CHAMPION TEAMSTER:
Jim Buckman Wickenburg, Ar.
Al Baptista Turlock, Ca.
Each year, thousands of mule lovers, spectators, and exhibitors flock together in Bishop to renew the values and friendships upon which our entire industry is based. Each contributes his own special talents to this unique and unusual affair. Mule Fever runs rampant and each year this culture of friends and acquaintances grows. Thank you all for your part in this gala event and a special thanks to the city of Bishop for their warm reception of such a grand and overwhelming show. A special thanks to Carl Lind and the other Mule Days committee members who have made this all possible: Bobby Tanner, Emily Braffet, Roger Rogers, Denton Sonke, Bob Tanner, Danny Wells, Sam Dean, Ross Corner, Robert Collins, Sue Hill, Martha Miklaucic, Candy Nitschke, Newt Elsdon, Esther Atkinson, Jack Gustafson, Randy Van Tassell, Chris Van Tassell, Ned Londo, Kathy Dugas, Margaret Strong, and Bob Rowe. It takes an enormous amount of courage, consideration, and hard work to put on an event such as this, and these folks have really done an extraordinary job! Thank you for not only a job well done, but a job done with kindness, consideration, and dedication! We salute you! You have made our World Championship at Bishop more than just a show. You have made it a wonderfully rewarding and fulfilling cultural life experience!
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
As the last signs of winter fade, giving way to the fresh breath of spring, the little town of Bishop —centrally located in the eastern High Sierra Recreation Area of California—began preparation for its 16th Annual Mule Days Celebration. With a population of over 1000 mules in the area, Bishop had been designated the Mule Capital of the World. Townspeople, volunteers, participants and spectators join together in a mutual effort to help Bishop host the largest mule show in the world. The fever of spring runs doubly hot for mule enthusiasts everywhere as they dream of this annual marvelous long weekend to come. And this year, as every year, promised to provide the best show ever!
Bishop Mule Days always has something for everyone. Mule lovers, their friends and family can enjoy fine Western cuisine, games, dancing and good conversation in addition to the show itself. The celebration is kicked off by three mule shows on Friday—there were over 90 different classes and events for competitors. They included: Pleasure classes, Reining classes, Trail, Musical Tires, Barrel Racing and Pole Bending. Also, Jumping, Cattle Penning, Steer Stopping, Team Roping, and a Balloon Bust. For the packers: Pack Train classes, Packing contests, Box Hitch and Diamond Hitch packing contests (pro and non-pro), Team Packing and the Team Packing Scramble, which you must see to believe!
There are Halter classes, Pulling, Driving classes and for you race fans—Chariot Races, Flat Track races, and yes, even a Backwards Race! There are Braying Contests for those who prefer to rabble than ride and a Shoeing Contest for our renowned farriers! Several new events had been added to increase the desirability of the show.
There was an Individual Packing Scramble for those wild and wooly mountain men or women who preferred to “go it light,” Western Saddle Races for those who wouldn’t be caught dead sitting on a postage stamp, and Forging and Hot Shoeing for our more artistic farriers. All these events and more were narrated by the “Man with the Magic Voice,” Bob Tallman from Reno, Nevada. He is one of many extra-special people who participated in this year’s Mule Days Celebration.
Bishop Mule Days 1985 was also graced with the royal presence of Sonnette, a beautiful nine-month-old Poitou donkey recently imported from France and her equally rare companion Savane, a Mulassier Draft Horse filly. The Poitou donkey is the most unusual and famous donkey ever bred, whose ancestry can be traced back to the French archives as early as 1121. The breed has been protected by the French government and has remained pure for 300 years. Sonnette was one of only 60 Poitou donkeys in existence in 1985 and the only one of her kind in the United States. Her companion Savane was one of an estimated 150 Mulassiers in existence in 1985 and the only one of her kind in the United States. Mulassiers are a powerful draft horse used exclusively to breed with the Poitou ass to produce the Poitou mule, that has been extensively used in agriculture in France for hundreds of years. Seeing these two extremely rare animals was a very special treat indeed!
Following the mule shows on Friday and Saturday, mule enthusiasts were able to warm up their “Mule Days Spirit” and dance the night away to the sounds of Monte Mills and his Horseshoe Band. On Saturday morning, we were hoping this year’s Mule Days Parade would be honored with the presence of California Governor George Deukmejian as Grand Marshall.
So as we approached the bicentennial of the first jacks to set foot on American soil, we did not wait until October to make this year a special one for our Longeared friends. We began the year by kicking up our heels at the largest mule show in the world, in the Mule Capital of the World, Bishop, California, Memorial Day weekend, May 24-27, 1985!
The following is a list of points that I used in my pursuit for “Mule” acceptance into the national equestrian organizations such as the American Horse Show Association, The United States Dressage Federation, the United States Eventing Association and ultimately the United States Equestrian Federation (A.H.S.A. replacement).
The mission of the U.S.E.A. as in Article 2 of the constitution in “Vision” and “Mission” vows to promote the pursuit of excellence in equestrian sport from grass roots to the Olympics. I am a life member.
The mule is half horse and therefore his rider is an equestrian.
Because of his “peculiar” disposition, he demands the respect and cooperation from his handler that is also in pursuit of excellence. He is not likely to put up with a disrespectful rider and therefore demands excellence.
Dressage has 100’s of years of successful training and is taken well by mules because of its positive attention to all aspects of the equine’s well being and development. It makes sense to the mule that is an animal that is sensitive with a strong sense of self preservation. It is the right way to develop an athlete. When conditioning for other types of equine sport, Dressage is still the base from which one should work. Any other way would be considered a short cut and could result in a shortened life span, injury or death!
I began lessons with Melinda Weatherford in Colorado in Dressage with my mules and began to see phenomenal results.
Once we had achieved some level of competence (Training Level), I was able to ride with some of the best riders and most influential people in the equestrian world:
Major Anders Lindgren helped my now 4th level mule, Lucky Three Sundowner begin true forward motion in his lateral exercises.
Denny Emerson, Jim Graham and Bruce Davidson helped refine our techniques for the 3-day horse trials.
In 1986, we approached the U.S.D.F. and were accepted in non-AHSA sanctioned shows.
We continued to improve and score high in Dressage tests to 3rd Level and were schooling at 4thLevel, at which time we approached our own World competition at Bishop Mule Days and in 1992, Dressage classes were included in our world show. There is continued interest and growth in these classes.
It was because of the help of individuals like Major Anders Lindgren, Denny Emerson, Jim Graham, Bruce Davidson and others like them who have helped us achieve levels of Horsemanship never before achieved by anyone with mules and we have subsequently inspired those who follow to pursue these venues of Horsemanship.
Those that helped have truly done what your constitution (U.S.E.A.) implies and now there are more than 6 million mules in United States. Many of their owners are in pursuit of these same levels of Horsemanship. I was fortunate that those in my area were more than happy to open their shows to my mules and me. There are other areas that haven’t been as cooperative.
The struggles that have arisen from this issue are largely coming from those who are yet naïve on the finer points of Horsemanship. Those who don’t want to compete with mules because they scare the horses, simply have not the trust from their animals to learn to investigate first. This is not anything that cannot be improved by improving their own skills in dealing with their horses.
Mule people’s naivety shows when they approach this issue with the idea that a mule is better than a horse. Dressage teaches you to learn to do your best with your animal and the ones you should be competing against is simply yourself! When your scores improve, you are doing well. When you have a low score on any given day, you learn one day does not a whole life make and we hope for a better score next time. Everyone can’t always have good days.
The equine industry only represents about 1% of the population. We should not be arguing amongst ourselves. Rather, we should try to recruit more interest in our industry for the success of the industry itself. Mules can bring in more numbers of participants in these kinds of activities.
Mules can actually promote more interest from the public because they are not expected to be there. Thus, they can help to sell more tickets top events.
Some of our future Olympic riders could be mule riders with exceptional ability. The mules would insist on the best from their riders to get to this level much beyond what a horse demands from his rider.
There is increased interest in 4-H club children who wish to use mules as their projects. They add humor to the equation and make them more fun to be around in a lot of instances thus promoting staying power. Children are less likely to lose interest like they often do with horses. People are drawn to the unusual.
We have been working on this quest since 1986, 17 years! If this were not something that people believe to be an important issue, it would not have been pursued so adamantly for so long!
This is not a case of mules vs. horses. It is a case of giving riders the best possible education in the pursuit of their dreams…no matter what type of equine they decide to ride. The U.S.A.E. should not think that this will naturally follow with a pursuit for donkeys, zebras, etc. As an educated trainer, I know that these animals are not structurally nor mentally fit for participation in dressage at these levels. Why? Because they are not half-horse!
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
When fellow Longears Lover, Kathleen Conklin was looking to retire her 10-year-old Belgian/Saddlebred mare, she began her search for the perfect mule. In January of 1996, she narrowed her search to looking for a large mule that would fit her numerous larger carriages. She looked far and wide to find the special individual that could fill the shoes of her mare in riding, driving, fox hunting, showing and Combined Driving. After failing to find a mule that would be large enough and refined enough to suit this purpose, it finally dawned on Kathleen that she had not yet tapped the most obvious market right there in her own neck of the woods…the Amish community.
Kathleen found two different Amish farms in Pennsylvania that were offering many mules for sale, but most of the larger draft-bred mules were being sold as teams. She found none at the first farm that fit her expectations. The second farm had 60 mules for sale but only three were available as single mules. There was a grey, a Belgian and a black mule. Although the others were broke, the black mule was not—he wouldn’t even allow her to stand next to him. But broke or not, this was the mule she wanted!
When the mule was delivered, things didn’t seem right to Kathleen. This one was much too friendly and much easier to handle than the mule she had previously seen. She called the man who sold it to her and told him she had the wrong mule. He simply replied, “Oh, you noticed.” She made him pay for the return shipping and she finally got the mule she truly loved, who she named John Henry. And that was the beginning of a legacy!
John Henry grew to be the epitome of “versatility,” winning the Versatility Hall of Fame Award and subsequent numerous Honor Roll certificates (offered by the American Donkey and Mule Society) for his continuing excellence. John Henry competed under saddle, was successfully used for fox hunting and coon jumping, and excelled in Combined Driving. His exceptional and unique qualities were widely recognized, and he even had his own column in The Brayer Magazine (published by the A.D.M.S.), entitled, “Dear John Henry,” in which he gave sound advice to questions from other mules all over the country.
From 2003 to 2010, Kathleen and John Henry competed in the Commercial Carriage Division at the Walnut Hill Farm Driving Competition in Pittsford, New York, the finest pleasure driving competition in the United States. In the seven years they competed, John Henry was the only mule showing on the grounds, always competing against horses. His accomplishments got mules accepted into the American Driving Society, which made him beyond famous. Spectators flocked to see him compete every year, and he had his own fan club. He was either Champion or Reserve Champion of the Commercial Division a total of six times, showing under “rated” Commercial Driving judges from England. In 2011, just three weeks before he was to once again compete at Walnut Hill, John Henry passed away at the age of 20, a true champion right up to the end.
In early 2014, famed artist and wood carver, Dennis Page, asked my friend, Bonnie Shields (Tennessee mule artist and illustrator of my Jasper the Mule series), about a model for a “rocking mule” that he was going to carve out of wood. She suggested that he might want to model it after a ceramic sculpture she had done of John Henry, and he did just that. The wood-carved rocking mule of John Henry stands 48 inches tall and is just gorgeous! In fact, it is so beautiful that I bought it when it was finished.
I wanted to display the image of John Henry in all his glory, so Kathleen sent me two of his handsome championship ribbons from Walnut Hill Farm days. She also sold me his harness, his personal cooler (with the competition logo and his name on the front) and several pictures of him for the Lucky Three Ranch tribute to her legendary champion mule. I had the ribbons, Kathleen’s favorite picture of John Henry (from Bob Mischka’s mule calendar) and a tribute card framed and mounted on an easel, with the other items displayed behind the rocker.
John Henry was one of a kind and is sorely missed, especially by Kathleen. But she is elated that her beloved mule and his legacy are being honored with his own exhibit here at Loveland Longears Museum and Sculpture Park in Loveland, Colorado. Kathleen and John Henry had a wonderful time together, touching so many lives and showing everyone just how extraordinary a mule can truly be. Thank you, John Henry for opening people’s minds to the superior versatility of the mule and for paving the way for so many other mules to follow in your footsteps toward extraordinary equine achievement!
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
Your equine depends upon you for his safety and well-being. The best feed in the world won’t keep him in good health if you neglect other important areas such as vaccinations and worming. It’s up to you to create a program to prevent disease and control parasites. Here are some suggestions for a general health program:
1) Cleanliness is very important. Make sure feed boxes are clean and manure is removed from stalls and paddocks. Do not feed hay or grain on the floor or anywhere it may become contaminated with manure. Similarly, small, heavily used pastures tend to build up a heavy parasite load. Pastures should be rotated and harrowed as frequently as possible to break the life cycle of the parasites.
2) Internal parasites are the most common danger to the health and well-being of your mule, and you must be prepared to wage a constant battle to control these worms. Follow your vet’s advice to set up a parasite-prevention and control program through regular worming. The drugs that are available today are very effective in removing parasites and breaking the cycle of re-infection. At Lucky Three Ranch, we worm every eight weeks in January, March, May, July and September with Ivermectin and then break the cycle and worm with Strongid in November. Don’t forget to watch out for bot eggs and remove them immediately.
3) Avoid letting your equine drink from public watering facilities. Use your own clean water buckets. Keep an eye out for anything that might injure your equine, and remove or repair it.
Proper treatment of diseases and injuries depends on two very important factors: correct diagnosis and knowledge of the proper treatment. Your job is to become familiar with equine diseases and their symptoms. In case of sickness or injury, know what to do for your animal before help arrives. Understand what simple treatments and remedies are safe to follow. Above all, know when to call a veterinarian.
4) There are many resources available to help you learn how to be better prepared including books, clinics and, especially, advice from an expert such as your own veterinarian or farrier.
Assemble your own equine first aid kit and, with the help of your veterinarian, learn the proper use of each item in the kit. Be prepared to handle the situation before the vet arrives.
When signs of infectious disease appear, isolate infected animals promptly and call your veterinarian right away.
5) Seek your vet’s recommendations for shots and immunizations, and faithfully follow an annual vaccination program. Make sure you keep good records of vaccinations and worming, and be sure to keep track of when they’re next due.
6) One of the best ways to monitor your equine’s health is by establishing a daily grooming routine. Not only will he be rewarded with a shiny coat, but you can watch for cuts and bruises and check the condition of the feet.
Basic grooming tools include a rubber currycomb to rough up the hair and bring dirt to the surface, a dandy brush to lift out the dirt, a body brush to smooth and shine, a hoof pick to clean the feet and a mane and tail comb and brush. A sweat scraper is handy to remove excess water during and after a bath, or sweat after a workout. A grooming cloth can be used to polish the coat and bring out the shine. In the springtime, a plastic multi-bristled hairbrush and shedding blade are also nice tools to have on-hand to remove dead hair, and a sponge can be used to clean muddy legs.
Begin your routine by using a hoof pick to clean the feet. Start with the near front foot, move to the near hind, then the off fore and off hind. If your young mule is skittish, work in whatever order he is comfortable. As he becomes accustomed to having his feet cleaned, you can do them in a consistent order. Clean from heel to toe and watch for infections like thrush and injuries from rocks or nails. This is also a good time to check his shoes. Mules should be shod (if working regularly on very hard surfaces), or trimmed, approximately every six to eight weeks according to use.
Next, begin to groom the body, starting on the left side at the head. Hold the currycomb in one hand, keeping the other hand on your animal to steady him. Gently curry in small circular strokes, working your way down and back, ending with the hind leg. Next brush vigorously, first with the hairbrush and then with the body brush. During springtime shedding, use your plastic bristle brush on the body to reach the dead hair in the undercoat before you use the shedding blade. Make sure that you apply only as much pressure as feels good to your equine (lighter pressure over bony areas). This should be an enjoyable experience for him.
After grooming the left side, move to the right side. Brush the head with a Dandy brush and use a multi-bristled human hairbrush on the mane and tail. By adding a little Johnson’s Baby oil to the mane and tail during grooming, you can train a mane to fall to one side and keep other equines from chewing on manes and tails. Finish with a soft body brush. Finally, use the grooming cloth to wipe around the ears, face, eyes, nose, lips, sheath (if it’s a male) and the dock of the tail.
While paying this much attention to your mule’s body, you will be sure to see anything abnormal such as an abscess, a cut, mites or insects, or a sore. Early discovery and treatment keep problems small.
Besides routine grooming, your equine’s longer hairs can be trimmed as often as needed. Clip the long hairs from the head, the outsides of the ears, on the jaw and around the fetlocks for a neat and clean appearance.
Mules and donkeys like to be dusty, but they also like to be clean. Bathing every so often will make your Longears look and feel better. All equines enjoy having all that itchy sweat rinsed off after a good workout. I don’t recommend bathing too often with soap because an equine’s skin is sensitive. Soap can irritate it as well as strip away the essential oils. Most of the time, a good rinse, while scraping the excess water off with a shedding blade, will maintain a clean, healthy coat. Of course it’s essential to have a spotless animal if you’re off to a show or parade.
Once your mule has been bathed and is spotlessly clean before the show, all you need to do to prepare him for your class is a quick once-over with a vacuum. Vacuum training is like anything else—take your time, be polite in your approach and make sure your mule understands that this strange, noisy monster is not going to hurt him. Soon he will learn to enjoy being groomed by the vacuum. The vacuum will also promote better circulation to the muscle tissue.
BODY CLIPPING
If you plan to show your mule, you might consider body clipping. If you clip in mid-April or May, you will expedite shedding and the hair that grows in will be more manageable than the heavy winter hair. Equines that are not going to be shown should be left with their natural hair coat, as it insulates them from both cold and heat, and protects them from invasive insects. Mules and donkeys shed more slowly than horses and are not usually fully shed out until late summer.
There’s a bonus to clipping a show mule or donkey—their hair won’t grow back as quickly as that of a horse. Just remember that clipped animals should be stabled and blanketed during cold weather. If you do blanket your mule, you must be ready to add or remove blankets and hoods as the weather changes each day. To keep the coat from growing back too quickly, it helps to have them under 16 hours of light (summertime light duration).
To body clip your mule, begin with a quick bath. Your clippers will last longer if your mule is clean. When he’s dry, use your rubber currycomb to bring any dirt and dead hair to the surface. Follow with a good brushing. If it’s too cold for a bath, use a vacuum to get him clean.
Begin clipping the legs and head, because these are usually the hardest areas to do. If he’s a little difficult, don’t hesitate to use the restraints you learned about in DVD #2. Use a twisted lead rope hobble to restrain the front legs, a scotch hobble for the rear legs, or a face tie for the head, but be sure to use them as described and don’t be punitive in your approach. Start with small clippers on the coronet band and fetlock, working your way up each leg.
Do the body last with large animal clippers. Clip against the lay of the hair. Start at the rear and work your way forward, clipping first one side and then the other. Pay special attention to the flanks, the mane and the fuzzy areas under the belly and around the forearms and buttocks.
If your mule has a nice mane, leave it and clip a bridle path. The length of the mane and the bridle path will depend on trends in the event you are participating in. For example, in English riding, manes are kept shorter to make braiding easier, but if your event is reining, keep the mane as long as possible. I like to grow the manes as long as possible (they help to keep flies and insects at bay), give crew cuts through the bridle path to the males and leave a foretop and bridle path on the females.
If you’re packing, you might want to shave or trim the mane short for the sake of simplicity. Many people shave the foretop and bridle path with a #10 blade, and then trim the rest of the mane to half an inch. You may trim the outside edges and backs of the ears, but leave the inside hair to prevent irritation from flies and bugs.
The tail is another area where there are many variations. I recommend applying Johnson’s Baby oil to the base during each grooming and letting the tail hair grow. This is a good idea if you compete in open events with horses. A second method is to shave the first two inches of the tail for a clean, well-groomed look (however, it does grow back even fuzzier!). A third variation is to “bell” the tail in three tiers. This looks best with a thick tail and is generally used for identification purposes by packers and the military, but is not recommended for normal grooming, as it is difficult to maintain.
Now you’re ready to trim the head. This will include trimming the bridle path, muzzle hairs, hair under the jaw, long hairs around the eyebrows and the backs and edges of the ears.
Lastly, remove chestnuts and ergots by soaking them with baby oil for about 30 minutes and peeling them off. If the ergots don’t peel off, you may cut them off with scissors or nippers.
Now you’ve got an equine that looks great! It will be easy to keep him looking good with a weekly trim that should include bridle path, ears, around the face and coronet bands.
BRAIDING FOR SHOW
Depending on the event you plan to show in, treatment of the mane varies considerably. For Western pleasure, you may want to simply band the mane so it lies flat. The tiny rubber bands can be purchased in tack shops in colors to match your mule’s hair. Tradition dictates the braiding of the mane for hunters and English classes for a neat, clean appearance. A thick, heavy mane cannot be properly braided and must be thinned until all the hairs are about four to six inches long and lay flat on the neck. This is done by using a mane comb to pull out the long hairs from the underside of the mane. This can be a big job and it’s annoying to your equine, so limit mane pulling to a few minutes a day. Make sure the hair is the same length from poll to withers. Don’t even think about cutting it with scissors—it will just end up short but way too thick to braid.
You can spritz a little water and hair spray to make the hair easier to handle. The quickest way to secure the braids is by using tiny rubber bands. It’s also very easy to do and it’s great for one-day shows or quick changes between classes.
Sewing with thread or weaving yarn looks very professional and is more permanent, but it’s also more time consuming.
Once the braid is finished it should be folded once and fastened with either rubber bands or a piece of yarn or thread. It can also be rolled and tacked into place. How you finish your braid will depend upon the time you have and the look you want to achieve, as well as what looks good on your equine!
Braiding the tail begins with a clean, well-groomed tail. Even short hair can be braided if you use a lot of hair spray to make it sticky. Moisten all the hairs along the dock with a damp sponge and bring them forward. Take a section of hair from each side of the tail, as close to the top as possible, pulling the sections out from as far under as you can.
On a horse, you can pick up a third section from the middle of the tail, but on a mule’s thin tail, take the hair from the side. Cross it over one of the outer strands. Begin braiding with three strands down the center of the tail. With each twist of the braid, pick up a little more hair from either side or from the middle. Continue braiding until you reach the root of the tail, then don’t add any more hair, but braid until you reach the end.
Fasten the end of the braid with a tiny rubber band or a piece of yarn. Now fold the braid once and pull the end up into the braided root, tying it at the base with yarn or thread.
In showmanship and halter classes, it goes without saying that your equine must be groomed to perfection. This means that, for months prior to the show, you’ve given your equine a good brushing or vacuuming at least once a week. Brushing stimulates the skin and brings out the natural oils that make the coat shine. No amount of “shine in a can” will replace the natural luster of an equine that’s been brushed regularly.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
In November of 1986, mules were accepted by the United States Dressage Federation in their schooling shows. This opened many new doors for mules in this country, but the doors to real national participation and recognition remained closed when the American Horse Show Association pronounced that they would not accept mules competing against horses in A.H.S.A.-approved competitions. At first, this seemed to be a direct insult to mules, but in April of 1988, the A.H.S.A. (currently the United States Equestrian Federation) clarified its position by inviting the American Donkey & Mule Society (our Longears international organization) to join the A.H.S.A. as a division. This meant that although mules would still not be allowed to compete against horses, they would be given an opportunity for recognition of their accomplishments within their own species. It isn’t really all that important for mules to defeat horses in equine sports. Rather, it seems more important to me for mules to have the chance to test their best athletes against each other, thus raising the standard of excellence for the entire breed. Competitions against horses can still take place, but they would take place in a show designed for such a competition, such as the “Battle of the Breeds.” By doing things in this manner, we reward the efforts of all. Equestrians avoid bad feelings among equestrians, and maintain the integrity of the equine industry as a whole.
In order to remain an integral part of the A.H.S.A, once we were accepted, we are expected to meet certain criteria. First, our breed organization must have been incorporated in the United States a minimum of five years. Since the American Donkey & Mule Society was founded in 1967, we had already met these criteria.
Second, at least 500 animals must have been registered with the breed registry during the two years immediately preceding an application for recognition. The American Donkey & Mule Registry has been continually increasing over the years as people realize the value in registering their animals. The registry gives us the opportunity to identify our own animals, to keep records on stock for the purpose of a traceable ancestry and to monitor the accomplishments of our athletic champions. Obviously, registering animals improves the chances to help you monitor the health and well being of your animal. A traceable ancestry gives us the opportunity to explore and examine the strengths and weaknesses of our breeding programs and other related research. Monitoring the successful accomplishments of our champions allows us to set new goals and new challenges for our Longears and keeps them in a favorable light in the public eye. These things are all-important to the stability and growth of our industry. With a well-organized registry drive, we could, no doubt, meet this second criterion with no problem.
The third criterion was, perhaps, the one that is gave us the biggest problem: “Competitions restricted to a breed or discipline must have been held in at least 20 events during the year immediately preceding an application for recognition either at A.H.S.A.-approved events or at events approved by the breed or discipline.” This alone, is not a problem, since we definitely hold at least 20 events a year that could stand the scrutiny of A.H.S.A. approval. To remain in the A.H.S.A. we must follow up by having “a minimum of 25% of the competitions restricted to a breed or discipline held at A.H.S.A. events annually.” We needed people and clubs to take responsibility for seeing that these competitions continue to survive and thrive in the corning years.
At that time, there were a lot of new folks coming into the Longears industry. Our industry was growing, without a doubt, but like the horse industry, our solid base was comprised primarily of folks whose main interest lay in the casual, recreational use of Longears rather than in showing and breeding. Still, one cannot exist without the other. The successful showing and breeding of quality stock insures the recreational user that he will be receiving better quality animals at a fair price for his own use. So you see, each integral part of the entire industry is somewhat dependent upon the support, recognition, and understanding of the other parts to solidify the success of the whole. There is a lot of anxiety about fees in competitions making the show scene somewhat expensive, but not as much as you would imagine. The A.H.S.A. must have these fees to fund their efforts and when you perceive the results of the numerous things that they do for the industry, you can see that these fees are really quite minimal. Besides, all of our shows did not need to be A.H.S.A approved, just a percentage!
Fourth, and no problem to deal with, the A.H.S.A. required that we submit a complete outline of conformation standards for the breed and rules for competitions for breeds and disciplines. We have qualified judges and well-informed equestrians within our industry that could easily help to compile this information and prepare it for submission. Most of the rules and regulations could be borrowed from the already existing A.H.S.A. Rulebook, so, “why re-invent the wheel!?!”
In order to remain in the A.H.S.A., there are only 2 more requirements:
1) “National and/or regional Championships for a breed or discipline must be A.H.S.A.-approved, and…
2) “Any division recognized after December 1, 1984, that does not meet the aforementioned criteria in any given year will be warned and if it fails to comply, the following year it will be dropped from the rulebook.”
So, you can see that this A.H.S.A affiliation does not have to be a complicated threat and it could definitely increase the integrity of our entire Longears industry. There were many folks across the country that were only waiting for the signal to go ahead and begin work on this project in their own areas. They didn’t necessarily need help with the actual work, but they did need the support of Longears lovers in their respective areas. After speaking with folks all over the United States for the two years, it was clear to me that joining an institution such as the A.H.S.A. could be quite frightening and intimidating to the common man.
However, it isn’t any more so than any other “new” experience. There are many benefits to be gained by joining, and the most important of all was the overall unification of the entire Equine Industry including all breeds and disciplines. Our world is composed of billions of people with many diversified interests. To see that each different interest has the best chance for growth and development, all of those with that particular interest should ban together in support for its very survival. Dissention and arguments within an industry are counter-productive. Those who wanted to see mules and donkeys accepted by the A.H.S.A. as a division were encouraged to write me letters, cards and even call me at the Lucky Three Ranch to let me know their feelings. We wanted to begin the organization for this action. I felt that if I did not receive any responses to this request, I could only assume that our industry was too young and immature for such an action at this time, and the action to join the A.H.S.A. would again be postponed. I pleaded people to PLEASE, for the sake of our growth, consider the options carefully before rejecting this proposal. It could have meant the success or failure of our entire Longears industry!
The 1986 A.D.M.S. National Donkey & Mule Show was held in Dallas, Texas, October 24-26, and hosted by the Southwestern Donkey & Mule Society. Glen Heiney, owner of the Heiney Training Center in Joshua, Texas, who has devoted his life to the advancement and promotion of the equine industry, was the chosen mule judge. Dr. Suzy Schoener, member of the A.D.M.S. since 1976 and founding member of the Texas Draft Horse & Mule Society, took time from her veterinary practice in Mansfield, Texas, to come and judge the donkeys. There were 70 different classes in the show, equally divided between mules and donkeys. This is one of the few shows I have attended that gave donkey owners an opportunity to exhibit their abilities. One need only try to train a donkey to really appreciate the patience and effort these donkey owners have put into their animals. They deserve a place to display their talents. This was one of the primary reasons we travelled all the way from Colorado to attend this show. This was one of the few shows where we could show our jack, Little Jack Horner at more than just halter. Another important reason for attending was to meet those in Texas who share our interest in Longears and what an hospitable group of people they turned out to be!
From Loveland, Colorado, it took two days to reach Dallas. The first night, Cliff Rich and Gary Marble were kind enough to arrange for accommodations for us and our Longears at the Equestrian Center in Canyon, just south of Amarillo. The following day, Cliff led us safely into Dallas for the show. Without his help, we would surely have been lost! At the show we were greeted cheerfully and enthusiastically by several A.D.M.S. members and friends whose hospitable contributions made our trip more than worthwhile. Our deepest thanks go to Cliff Rich, Katharine Bradley, Paul and Betsy Hutchins, Darlene Winters, Grady and Wanda Alexander, Jeb and Sue Wilson, Walter Nunn and Keith and Micki Woods. These folks went out of their way to make our experience a pleasant one.
Besides the number of donkey classes made available, there were other things about this show that made it special. Exhibitors were encouraged to decorate their stall areas with photos and facts about mules, donkeys and their farms and ranches. This kind of enthusiasm made for an informative and interesting display for the spectators who strolled through the barn area, helping them to better understand just what was really going on at the show.
So many times, those who work long and hard on such functions as this National Show get lost in the shuffle once things have begun. I was particularly impressed with their thoughtfulness in holding an awards ceremony to appreciate those who made this show possible and for those who have made other measureable contributions to Longears. It is things like this that keep people interested in contributing!
I have noticed at many other shows that costume classes are not always well defined, which can really leave a judge “out in left field,” so to speak. The costume classes at the A.D.M.S. National Show were expertly decided in three different categories: humorous, historic, and authentic. Done in this manner, each class was well defined to the judge, exhibitors and to those who were watching, promoting more enjoyment and less confusion. My compliments go to the wonderfully creative costumes that were exhibited. They were fascinating and most enjoyable!
As impressive as the adult classes were youth classes. These young people did a fine job showing their donkeys and mules, and should be congratulated on their mature conduct and horsemanship (or should I say Longearsmanship?!). They did as fine a job as I have ever seen!
Congratulations to our National Champions:
’86 A.D.M.S. Champion Model Donkey
“Rosser’s Boy”
Owned by A.P. Rosser, Sr.
Stephenvillee, Texas
’86 A.D.M.S. Champion Model Mule
“Leading lady”
Owned by Cliff Rich
Amarillo, Texas
’86 A.D.M.S. Champion Model Donkey
“Solomon’s Henry”
Owned by Dub & Sandra Osborne
Grandview, Texas
’86 A.D.M.S. Champion Model Mule
“Ginger”
Owned by Marvin Brown
Sunset, Texas
’86 A.D.M.S. Champion Youth Mule
Bobby Winters
Kennedale, Texas
’86 A.D.M.S. Hi Point Champion Model Donkey
Zack Kepple
Cleburne, Texas
’86 A.D.M.S. High Point Novice Youth
Tie between:
Tela Way
Millsap, Texas
and:
Rachel Holly
Prairie Grove, Arkansas
Reserve Champion
“Otay Alfalfa”
Owned by Chris Henderson
Hurst, Texas
Reserve Champion
“Penny Annie”
Owned by Patricia Windom
Celina, Texas
Reserve Grand Champion
“Redman”
owned by Cliff Rich
Amarillo, Texas
Reserver Grand Champion
“Sandy”
owned by Grady Alexander
Buddah, Texas
Reserve Champion Youth
Matt Wood
Bryan, Texas
Reserve Champion
Kimberly Garza
Needville, Texas
Reserve Hi Point Youth
Wayne Kepple
Cleburne, Texas
Thanks to all of you who made the 1986 National Donkey and Mule Show the tremendous success that it was. We thoroughly enjoyed our first visit to Texas and appreciated the warmth and hospitality that we received. Congratulations on a terrific show!
On October 20-22, 1992, the Donkey & Mule Society of the Carolinas hosted the American Donkey & Mule Society National Show in Columbia, South Carolina in conjunction with their state fair. The American Council of Spotted Asses’ 1992 National Show was held concurrently. This was truly a colorful and entertaining extravaganza of mules and donkeys! As many as 23 states were represented, and classes were filled to maximum attendance. There were over 60 entries in the under saddle pleasure classes, and over 20 entries in each of the driving classes. The quality of the performance of their donkeys and mules was, without a doubt, above average, and in some cases, exceptional!
The Donkey & Mule Society of the Carolinas is to be commended on a job well done in the organization and running of this show, with special thanks to Leslie Bruce and Jackie Sanders for their tireless dedication and support. Founders of the American Donkey & Mule Society, Paul and Betsy Hutchins from Denton, Texas, were thrilled with the success of the show while they too made their own personal contributions. Paul’s captivating and humorous comments throughout the show kept the audience perked, while Betsy spent the long hours manning the A.D.M.S. booth, taking new memberships and renewing old ones, selling longears products, and talking Longears with hundreds of eager spectators and exhibitors. Tennessee mule balladeer Marilyn Powell Greene’s melodic voice filled the air, musing on mules and setting an enchanting ambiance to the whole affair. Even I was compelled to travel all the way from Colorado to lend my support to this special Longears event… and I am really glad that I did! I was particularly thrilled that I was able to bring with me my apprentice mule and donkey trainer/breeder, Ruth Elkins, a representative of the British Mule Society! We both had a wonderful time!
I think that I can safely say that a great time was had by all. Because of the numerous entries in the 110 halter, performance, driving classes and games, the show lasted well into the night each day, but good sportsmanship and good humor never waned, and the exhibitors did a terrific job of showing their lovely and well-trained animals!
The entries represented in the “authentic” and “original” costume classes were really very clever and innovative! These folks have wonderful imaginations, as was reflected by the numerous and extraordinary costumes in these two classes. What great folks, great Longears, and great fun!
Of particular interest were the driving classes: Single Hitch, Youth Hitch, Multiple, and Parade Hitches, Pleasure Driving, Reinsmanship, Races, and Obstacle classes. There were teams of all different sizes and colors, in beautiful harness, pulling a variety of carts and carriages. Classes were held for both mules and donkeys. As we know, running mules in races of any kind is lucrative at best, but the mules that ran in the harness races at this show were really quite good. Even the donkeys did a respectable job, although there were a couple of them that gave us a chuckle with their deliberate unconcerned attitude during their driver’s enthusiastic “Yee-Hawing” and flailing arms!
The judges of the hitch classes, Christine Berry and Jackie Starnes, couldn’t have had an easy time. Every entry in the Single Hitch Classes was turned out quite elegantly and appropriately. Harness was fitted properly and in good repair. Vehicles were of a wide variety of colors and make, yet balanced and appropriate for each of the animals. The animals themselves reflected quiet obedience and dependability. It was clear that the exhibitors had put a lot of time and effort into training their mules and donkeys. The youth drivers are to be commended for an exceptional enthusiasm for driving; it was clear that they had practiced and had put their heart and soul into their performance. We can all be proud of our young mule lovers!
In the multiple hitch classes, we saw a wide variety of wagons and other four-wheel vehicles coupled with many different sorts of hitches. Mules were shown in pairs and fours, and we were pleasantly surprised to see a hitch of three abreast and even a unicorn hitch. In keeping the more traditional use of mules and donkeys, we witnessed mules pulling an old plow and another team pulling an old manure spreader. There were as many different types of harness as there were teams, each with its own particular style and charm. Although there were impressive numbers in the under-saddle classes, the entries in the hitch classes were clearly the highlight of our National Show, with their unique and impressive performances!
Congratulations and a hearty thanks to all of you who helped to make the 1992 A.D.M.S National Donkey & Mule Show the tremendous success that it was. You all did an exceptional job of showing the public that mules can do… and donkeys, too! So keep your traces tight, and long live Longears!
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
Origins: The mule is mentioned in mankind’s earliest records. Consider this passage from the Bible: “And Absolom met the servants of David. And Absolom rode upon a mule, and the mule went under the thick boughs of a great oak, and his head caught hold of the oak, and he was taken up between the Heavens and the earth, and the mule that was under him went away.” (II Samuel 18:9)
Uses: Before the industrial age, five million mules were utilized by the United States. They worked the fields, carried packs, towed heavy barges along canals and plodded through dark mines, pulled supply wagons and streetcars about cities, carried tourists to exotic places and transported army supplies and light artillery for the government. “No cultural invention has served so many people in so many parts of the world for so many centuries with energy, power and transport as the mule.”
Breeding: The mule is a hybrid cross between a male donkey, (jack), and a female horse (mare). The mule possesses hybrid vigor. He inherits his incredible strength, intelligence, patience, perseverance, endurance and surefootedness from the donkey, and his beauty and athletic ability from the horse. The hinny, or reverse cross between a stallion and jennet, is also a mule.
Characteristics: Mules are intelligent and versatile equines. Being energy conservers, they are more surefooted and have smoother and more forward gaits than the horse. Mules are more resistant to parasites and disease, require less feed for good health, are less likely to injure themselves and are, thus, cheaper to keep.
Mules come in as many different sizes and colors as horses, donkeys and ponies. Donkey sizes range from miniatures that are 36″ and under to Mammoths that are 56″ and over. A mule is a miniature if he measures 50″ or less at the withers. Saddle mules come from a wide variety of the larger pony breeds, all light horse breeds and some draft horse breeds. They range in size from 50″ to 72″.
Mules have a wider range of colors than horses, due to the genetic influence of the donkey jack. Draft mules are bred from draft horses. When breeding for mules, choose the type of mare that excels in the equine discipline you desire to pursue. Choose the type of jack that best compliments her conformation and possesses the desired thickness of bone.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
Over the past few decades, through trial and error, we equine owners and trainers have discovered that, when communicating with our equines, harsh bits are not really necessary. Rather, it is safer and more beneficial to use milder tack and equipment, to concentrate on learning correct body language and to give clear cues with our hands, seat and legs to elicit the desired response from our equines.
Nowadays, at the beginning of training, more and more riders are learning to ride “by the seat of their pants;” that is, using body language through the seat, legs and hands, rather than with brute force through the bit. Once a rarity, riding bridleless, or bitless is now part of a preferred way of training for both the equine and the rider.
If you are training your equine at home—in a controlled situation and under optimum conditions—riding bridleless and using the right kinds of techniques can be relatively easy, but there is more to consider than just getting the right response from your equine. As long as you are in a controlled situation, it is safe to ride bridleless for general pleasure riding, but if you become involved in showing at the advanced levels of performance, such as the higher levels of Dressage, Jumping and Combined Training, a finer-tuned communication, which bitless bridles or bridleless riding cannot necessarily provide, is necessary.
When it comes to rider/equine communication, bitless and/or brideless techniques do not work as well as the simple, direct rein action of the snaffle bit in concert with your seat and legs.Many people are under the impression that having a bit in the mouth is painful for an equine, and the seeming “nutcracker” action of the snaffle bit when it is in your hands suggests that it might pinch your animal’s tongue when you pull on the reins. The mouthpiece of the snaffle bit actually “breaks” in the middle, allowing it to slide easily across the top of your equine’s tongue. It does not pinch his tongue, but it does put pressure on the corners of his mouth. The snaffle bit is correctly defined as a bit that promotes “direct rein action,” meaning that when you pull right, you go right and when you pull left, you go left. A snaffle bit does not have a shank. If it did have a shank, it would be considered a curb bit, regardless of how short the shank really is (as is the case with a Tom Thumb bit).
When you pull the rein on a snaffle bit to indicate your direction of travel, the leading rein pulls on the ring that guides the equine into the direction of travel, while the ring on the other side “pushes” his head into that same direction. Always be sure you are light with your hands and that you gently pull with a squeeze/release action or you could easily pull the snaffle bit all the way through the equine’s mouth, which would cause him pain and break the line of communication.
When you pull directly sideways on a curb bit, it pulls in the direction of travel where the reins are attached at the bottom of the shank, but the upper part of the shank pushes against your equine’s cheek on the same side and can cause confusion by sending simultaneous and opposite signals to your equine because he is being “pushed” in both directions at the same time. It is important to learn to ride with your balance coming primarily from your seat, which your equine can easily follow with the slightest indications from the direct rein snaffle bit and your legs. This will also promote a more secure rider position in your seat, making it easier for you to use the gentle squeeze/release motions with your hands. This way, your equine is encouraged into the direction of travel by the body language of your seat and is gently “guided” by your leading rein, while simultaneously being “pushed” into the correct direction of travel by the off-side ring of the snaffle bit and by your legs.
Learning to go forward in the beginning of your equine’s training in a snaffle bridle is paramount to properly developing his body so he will learn to carry a rider in a strong and solid frame and in good equine posture. The forward training teaches him to stretch his head and neck forward, to step well underneath his body to propel himself forward, and to elongate his overall frame to keep the vertebrae in his back from becoming compressed and rigid. When he is moving correctly in a straight line, he will have more suspension and flexibility to his gait, and when he turns he will be able to bend easily through his rib cage.
Although it would seem that a bitless bridle could achieve this same end, it has a different action on your equine’s head and neck, which inhibits proper bending through turns. The straight forward motion can be achieved with a bitless bridle. However, reins on a bosal (a type of braided rawhide noseband used with the hackamore-type headstall), bitless bridle reins, and other bitless configurations do not have the same lateral effect on the equine’s head and neck as does the snaffle bit. The equine’s head and neck form two sides of a triangle. The rope reins on a bosal, although lower on the nose of the equine than reins that come from the corners of the mouth, can cause the equine’s head to twist slightly sideways during the turn because, during any directional indication, the rawhide bosal around the nose twists through the rope reins which are both secured together underneath the jaw. The rope reins pull the underside of the bosal in the direction of the turn, but the nosepiece goes the opposite way and can cause your equine to improperly tilt his head through the turns. On bitless bridles, the reins are attached substantially higher than the corners of the equine’s mouth. When you pull on the reins attached higher on the equine’s jaw than where the bit would be as is the case with a halter or bitless bridle, the angle of pull is sharper and more abrupt, since the head side of the “triangle” is so much shorter than the length of the neck. It will cause the equine to try to turn his head too sharply from the poll, which can cause kinks and pain in his neck.
However, when using the snaffle bit, the direct rein pull coming from the corners of the equine’s mouth affords him a wider range of motion with his head and neck. He is able to stretch his head and neck forward and around in a properly executed horizontal arc through the turn, which in turn, opens the spaces between his vertebrae, allowing him to bend his head and neck into the arc of the turn, painlessly and with greater ease.
To prove the point, try this experiment. Preferably using an untrained animal, take hold of the halter and gently but firmly pull on the halter in an attempt to make him bend his head and neck to the side. The higher position of the halter is like a bitless bridle and you will feel slight tension and resistance to this action before the animal finally complies. Next, gently insert two fingers into one corner of the equine’s mouth while standing at his shoulder and by squeezing and releasing your fingers, ask him to turn his head and neck to the side toward you. If done correctly, without yanking on him, he should give easily to your cue to submit and turn his head and neck. You will notice that he extends his head and neck slightly forward before turning it to the side.
Now try this action on yourself. Stand in good posture and, without extending your neck, turn your head to the side. Do you feel the tension at the brainstem on the back of your neck? Now, stand in good posture, stretch your neck in an upward and forward arc and then look around the turn. Can you now feel the release from tension in the back of your neck? Your equine experiences the same feelings. The shorter angle of the side-pulls and bitless bridles will have a more abrupt pull and can cause some pain, while the longer angle coming from the snaffle bit at the corners of his mouth will allow a smoother and painless response. NOTE: Any bit can be painful to an animal when in the hands of an inexperienced rider who uses only the bit for control.
When an equine has been properly schooled and has learned the rules of communication through the snaffle bit, he holds the bit in his mouth and waits for the “feel” of the rider’s cues at the corners of his mouth. After years of practice, he will learn to respond to seat and legs and may not even need constant support of the rein cues—except for minute corrections. As equine and rider progress together, the rider’s cues will become nearly imperceptible until the rider is virtually riding without the active use of the reins. The equine has learned to quietly carry the bit in his mouth in anticipation of any communication coming through the reins. There is no pain because there is no pressure, except for an occasional reminder with a soft squeeze/release of the rider’s little pinky fingers on the reins from time to time.
The equine that has not had this kind of advanced training will possess neither genuinely good posture nor the knowledge of how to respond correctly in an abrupt and unpredictable situation. He will be more apt to be frightened and, as a result, may bolt and run, putting you and everyone around you at risk. However, the equine that is properly and conscientiously taught how to communicate through the snaffle bit will be a safer and more reliable animal to ride and to take into public places. He has learned to stop and wait for cues (communication through the bit) and is less likely to bolt and run if frightened because he understands and trusts the communication coming from his rider. He will now be more correct and solid in his good posture, yielding confidence in his attitude, and he will be a more reliable pleasure and show animal to ride.
When you take the time to train yourself to ride a balanced seat effectively and get in sync with your equine, you will be a much safer and happier rider, and your “finished” equine will be one that is always dependable. If you like the novelty of bitless and/or brideless riding, using a snaffle bit instead of a bitless bridle during training will help you to achieve strength in correct posture to enhance bitless riding and even brideless riding so that it can be done safely around the farm and in controlled situations like event demonstrations. Properly and consistently training with the goal of clear lines of communication between you and your equine will make everything you ask of him much easier for him to do, and he will become a happy, reliable and willing partner in your mutually satisfying relationship.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
Do mules need to be shod? Those who are familiar with mules might be tempted to say, “No,” but the answer is a little more complicated than you might think. Although the mule generally has a tougher and more durable foot than the horse, all mules do not have the same feet, nor do all mules apply the same kind of stress to those feet. Therefore, each individual animal has to be considered when answering the question, “To shoe or not to shoe?”
It is commonly known that, when it comes to horses and mules, light-colored hooves are softer and more likely to break down under stress than are the darker, black hooves. Even though the black hoof is naturally harder than the light-colored hoof, if it does not contain sufficient moisture, it can become brittle and can chip away as destructively as can the lighter hoof. Whichever breed of equine you own and whatever the color of their feet, remember that good hoof care is essential for all domesticated equines.
For better or worse, an equine inherits his hooves through his genes. If your mule has inherited good feet—black, oily-looking, and with good shape—then you are fortunate and hoof care and maintenance should be relatively simple. If he has inherited a softer or misshapen foot, you will need to discuss more specialized care with your farrier.
Climate and weather greatly affect the condition of your mule’s feet. Damp weather and muddy footing will tend to soften the walls of any hoof, and perpetual exposure to mud and dampness can cause deterioration of his feet. With the light-colored hoof, which tends to soften more easily, this could spell disaster. It is wise, therefore, during damp weather or if you live in a damp climate, to provide a clean, dry place for your mule to stand. Conversely, extremely hot and dry weather can cause your mule’s feet to become dry and brittle, and they may start to crack due to contraction and expansion of the hoof. For this type of dry weather or climate, you may want to overflow your water tanks regularly so your mule has a place to “cool his feet.” If it is excessively dry, you may even need to manually lubricate your mule’s hooves as needed with one of the commercial products available. But before you use an artificial hoof lubricant, first check with your farrier to make sure that it is actually needed. Many people use hoof products too frequently, which can cause hooves to become too soft. When this begins to happen, you will see horizontal rings appear around the hoof wall, and sometimes, vertical lines. Try not to let the hoof get to this point by using lubricants sparingly, but if you see that these rings are beginning to appear, immediately discontinue use of the lubricant and allow the hoof to harden. Then check with your vet to make sure it is not a founder condition. It does not take much to adequately soften the hooves of an animal with rock-hard feet. During the really dry seasons, lubricant application once a week is usually sufficient.
Assuming that your mule has a normal set of dark, healthy hooves, he will probably not need to be shod, as long as he is used strictly for pleasure or only sporadically. However, if you are going to use your mule on excessively rocky or hard ground, you might want to look into getting shoes for him. Mules that repetitively participate in more stressful and demanding activities (such as parades, showing and endurance events) should be shod to protect their feet and to keep them healthy. Prevention of bruising or cracking and maintenance of good foot and leg posture is critical to the equine athlete.
The pack and pleasure mule that is not used much or is used on softer terrain and in places where he does not require shoes must still be trimmed for balance regularly to assure that his feet are evenly worn and that he is not putting undue stress on any joints, muscles or tendons. Failure to have your mule’s hooves regularly trimmed in order to maintain their balance and shape can result in an imbalance in your mule’s feet, which will then cause an imbalance throughout his entire body, inhibiting his performance. However, if trimming is done consistently, the risk of imbalance, accident or injury will be greatly reduced.
I believe that horses and mules, doing what they would naturally do alone—on terrain that is neither hard nor rocky—do not need to be shod. But mules that are asked to repetitively perform with a human on-board in varying surface situations should be fitted with the proper kind of shoes to help protect them from the additional weight and other demands that will be put upon their bodies. For example, my trail mules wear regular shoes on all four feet when they are being regularly used for trail riding and a variety of other activities, lessening the potential for injury. Then, when there is an occasional misstep on hard ground or rocks or when we trail-ride in the more challenging mountains, the shoes help to absorb some of the shock that would otherwise be absorbed by the hoof itself. It is my experience that young mules (and horses from two to four years of age) bear most of their weight on their front legs until their bodies are carefully and properly conditioned, and this is when you will see the most wear and tear on their feet. Because of this, my young mules that are just beginning saddle training wear regular shoes on the fronts only until their bodies are balanced and their activities clearly defined. Our broodstock, youngsters (under three years of age) and equines that are not used under demanding conditions can go barefooted year-round, but they all still get regular trims every six to eight weeks.
All my other stock is shod for the specific purpose for which they are used: The Reining mules wear slider plates during the competition season, and the jumpers are fitted with either regular shoes, a tap and die shoe with studs or a borium shoe for non-skid, depending upon the terrain they will be negotiating. If I were to ask one of my mules to race, I would fit him with the lighter-weight racing plates. Each equine athlete is given a set of shoes particularly designed for the best performance in his event, just as is the case with the human athlete. In the winter, if my mules have the need to wear shoes, I add rim pads to their shoes to help prevent “snowballing.”
Granted, there are a lot of mules that may not need to be shod, but there are also many that do need shoes, so each individual mule’s feet must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. Because of this fact, the generalizations that “mules don’t need to be shod” and “all equines should go barefoot” are not always correct. You must take into consideration how your particular mule’s genetics affect his hooves, what he will be used for and how harsh the demands put on him will be on his feet. These important factors will determine whether or not he needs shoes, and if he does need shoes, what kind of shoes will best suit him. And don’t forget to check your mule’s shoes on a regular basis to make sure that all is well and that his shoes are staying on tight, but most of all, that he is comfortable and happy.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
Most equines can be taught to carry a rider in a relatively short time. However, just because they are compliant doesn’t mean their body is adequately prepared for what they will be asked to do and that they are truly mentally engaged in your partnership. We can affect our equine’s manners and teach them to do certain movements and in most cases, we will get the response that we want…at least for the moment. Most of us grow up thinking that getting the animal to accept a rider is a reasonable goal and we are thrilled when they quickly comply. When I was first training equines, I even thought that to spare them the weight of the rider when they were younger and that it would be more beneficial to drive them first as this seemed less stressful for them. Of course, I was then unaware of the multitude of tiny details that were escaping my attention due to my limited education. I had a lot to learn.
Because my equines reacted so well during training, I had no reason to believe that there was anything wrong with my approach until I began showing them. I started to experience resistant behaviors in my animals that I promptly attributed to simple disobedience. I had no reason to believe that I wasn’t being kind and patient until I met my dressage instructor, Melinda Weatherford. I soon learned that complaining about Sundowner’s negative response to his dressage lessons and blaming HIM was not going to yield any shortcuts to our success. The day she showed up with a big button on her lapel that said, “No Whining” was the end of my complaining and impatience, and the beginning of my becoming truly focused on the tasks at hand. I learned that riding through (and often repeating) mistakes did not pose any real solutions to our problems. I attended numerous clinics from all sorts of notable professionals and we improved slowly, but a lot of the problems were still present. Sundowner would still bolt and run when things got a bit awkward, but he eventually stopped bolting once I changed my attitude and approach, and when he was secure in his core strength in good equine posture.
I thought about what my grandmother had told me years ago about being polite and considerate with everything I did. Good manners were everything to her and I thought I was using good manners. I soon found that good manners were not the only important element of communication. Empathy was another important consideration…to put oneself in the other “person’s” shoes, and that could be attributed to animals as well. So, I began to ask myself how it would feel to me if I was approached and treated the way I was treating my equines. My first epiphany was during grooming. It occurred to me that grooming tools, like a shedding blade, might not feel very good unless I was careful about the way I used it. Body clipping was much more tolerable for them if I did the hard-to-get places first and saved the general body for last. Standing for long periods of time certainly did not yield a calm, compliant attitude when the more tedious places were left until last. After standing for an hour or more, the animal got antsy when I was trying to do more detailed work around the legs, head, flanks and ears after the body; so I changed the order. Generally speaking, I slowed my pace and eliminated any abrupt movements on my part to give the equine adequate time to assess what I would do next and approached each task very CAREFULLY. The results were amazing! I could now groom, clip bridle paths and fly spray everyone with no halters, even in their turnout areas as a herd. They were all beginning to really trust me.
There was still one more thing my grandmother had said that echoed in my brain, “You are going to be a sorry old woman if you do not learn to stand up straight and move in good posture!” Good posture is not something that we are born with. It is something that must be learned and practiced repetitiously so that it becomes habitual for it to really contribute to your overall health. Good posture begins at the core, “the innermost, essential part of anything.” In a human being, it lies behind the belly button amongst the vital organs and surrounded by the skeletal frame. In a biped, upon signals from the brain, energy impulses run from the core and up from the waist, and simultaneously down through the lower body and legs. The core of an equine is at the center of balance in the torso. Similar to bipeds, they need the energy to run freely along the hindquarters and down through the hind legs to create a solid foundation from which to allow the energy in front to rise into suspension to get the most efficient movement. When their weight is shifted too much onto the front end, their ability to carry a rider efficiently and correctly is compromised. To achieve correct energy flow and efficient movement, the animal’s internal supportive structures need to be conditioned in a symmetrical way around the skeletal frame. People can do this by learning to walk with a book on their head and with Pilates exercises, but how can we affect this same kind of conditioning in a quadruped?
The first issue I noticed was with leading our animals. When we lead our animals with the lead rope in the right hand, we drop our shoulder and are no longer in good posture. When we walk, our hand moves ever so slightly from left to right as we walk; we inadvertently move the equine’s head back and forth. They balance with their head and neck. Thus, we are forcing them off balance with every step that we take. Since movement builds muscle, they are being asymmetrically conditioned internally and externally with every step we take together. In order to correct this, we must allow the animal to be totally in control of his own body as we walk together. We are cultivating proprioception or “body awareness.”
During the time you do the core strength leading exercises, you should NOT ride the animal as this will inhibit the success of these preliminary exercises. It will not result in the same symmetrical muscle conditioning, habitual behavior and new way of moving. For the best results, lessons need to be routine and done in good posture from the time you take your equine from the pen until the time you put him away. Hold the lead rope in your LEFT hand, keeping slack in the lead rope. Keep his head at your shoulder, match your steps with his front legs, point in the direction of travel with your right hand and look where you are going. Carry his reward of oats in a fanny pack around your waist; he’s not likely to bolt if he knows his reward is right there in the fanny pack.
Plan to move in straight lines and do gradual turns that encourage him to stay erect and bend through his rib cage, keeping an even distribution of weight through all four feet. Square him up with equal weight over all four feet EVERY TIME you stop and reward him with oats from your fanny pack. Then wait patiently for him to finish chewing. We are building NEW habits in the equine’s way of moving and the only way that can change is through routine, consistency in the routine and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Since this requires that you be in good posture as well, you will also reap the benefits from this regimen. Along with feeding correctly (explained on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com), these exercises will help equines to drop fat rolls and begin to develop the top line and abdominal strength in good posture. The spine will then be adequately supported to easily accept a rider. He will be better able to stand still as you pull on the saddle horn to mount.
When the body is in good posture, all internal organs can function properly and the skeletal frame will be supported correctly throughout his entire body. This will greatly minimize joint problems, arthritis and other anomalies that come from asymmetrical development and compromises in the body. Just as our children need routine, ongoing learning and the right kind of exercise while they are growing up, so do equines. They need boundaries for their behavior clearly outlined to minimize anxious behaviors and inappropriate behavior. The exercises that you do together need to build strength and coordination in good equine posture. The time spent together during leading training and going forward, slowly builds a good solid relationship with your equine and fosters his confidence and trust in you. He will know it is you who actually helps him to feel physically much better than he ever has.
Core muscle strength and balance must be done through correct leading exercises on flat ground. Coordination can be added to his overall carriage with the addition of negotiating obstacles on the lead rope done the same way. Once familiar with the obstacles, you will need to break them down into very small segments where the equine is asked to randomly halt squarely every couple of steps through the obstacle. You can tell when you have successfully achieved core strength in good balance, when your equine will perform accurately with the lead rope slung over his neck. He will stay at your shoulder, respond to hand signals and body language only and does what is expected perfectly. A carefully planned routine coupled with an appropriate feeding program is critical to your equine’s healthy development.
The task at the leading stage is not only to teach them to follow, but to have your equine follow with his head at your shoulder as you define straight lines and gradual arcs that will condition his body symmetrically on all sides of the skeletal frame. This planned course of action also begins to develop a secure bond between you. Mirror the steps of his front legs as you go through the all movements keeping your own body erect and in good posture. Always look in the direction of travel and ask him to square up with equal weight over all four feet every time he stops and reward him. This kind of leading training develops strength and balance in the equine body at the deepest level so strengthened muscles will hold the bones, tendons, ligaments and even cartilage in correct alignment. Equines that are not in correct equine posture will have issues involving organs, joints, hooves and soft tissue trauma. This is why it is so important to spend plenty of time perfecting your techniques every time you lead your equine.
The equine then needs to build muscle so he can sustain his balance on the circle without the rider before he will be able to balance with a rider. An equine that has not had time in the round pen to establish strength, coordination and balance on the circle, with the help of our postural restraint called the “Elbow Pull,” will have difficulty as he will be pulled off balance with even the slightest pressure. He will most likely raise his head, hollow his back and lean like a motorcycle into the turns. When first introduced to the “Elbow Pull,” his first lesson in the round pen should only be done at the walk to teach him to give to its pressure, arch his back and stretch his spine while tightening his abs. If you ask for trot and he resists against the “Elbow Pull,” just go back to the walk until he can consistently sustain this good posture while the “Elbow Pull” stays loose. He can gain speed and difficulty as his proficiency increases.
Loss of balance will cause stress, and even panic that can result in him pulling the lead rope, lunge line or reins under saddle right out of your hands and running off. This is not disobedience, just fear from a loss of balance and it should not be punished, just ignored and then calmly go back to work. The animal that has had core strength built through leading exercises, lunging on the circle and ground driving in the “Elbow Pull” before riding, will not exhibit these seemingly disobedient behaviors. Lunging will begin to develop hard muscle over the core muscles and internal supportive structures you have spent so many months strengthening during leading training exercises. It will further enhance your equine’s ability to perform and stay balanced in action, and play patterns in turnout will begin to change dramatically as this becomes his habitual way of going. Be sure to be consistent with verbal commands during all these beginning stages as they set the stage for better communication and exceptional performance later. Although you need to spend more time in his beginning training than you might want to, this will also add to your equine’s longevity and use-life by as much as 5-10 years. The equine athlete that has a foundation of core strength in good equine posture, whether used for pleasure or show, will be a much more capable and safe performer than one that has not, and he will always be grateful to YOU for his comfort.