Equines need clear and consistent handling practices. Teaching an equine to stand still should not just be trained as a singular task. In order to change behaviors such that they become repeated as new habitual behaviors, one needs to be logical, sequential and consistent in our own behaviors. New behaviors need to be strung together in a logical, progressive sequence and then practiced EXACTLY the same way ALL the time.
Training begins with nutrition and the way your equine is fed. An equine that is fed at a specific time each day is far less stressed than those with inconsistent feeding times and will learn easier. What you feed and how is critical. The equine should ALWAYS be asked to stand still with a verbal WHOA and required to remain back when you open a door, or a gate, until they are asked to WALK ON.
The Lucky Three equines are ALL trained to come when they are called, stand back to wait their turn when coming through the gates and turn around to have their halters put on easily upon request. When these habits are asked consistently, the same way every time, they become HABITUAL behavior. Be cognizant that your own body language and movements are consistent as well. If you ask your equine to WHOA and you keep moving, your example is at odds with what you are asking them to do.
The Lucky Three mules willingly come off the grass pasture at any time of the day when they are beckoned. This is the result of routine management, humane training practices, with a prompt and generous reward system. Not one of our equines is herd-bound as we do not play favorites, we reward everyone for good behavior and we do not ask more than they are physically able to give. We have slowly built deep friendships with them that exceed their relationships with their equine buddies!
Training consists of a logical and sequential way to approach physical conditioning so that we build their bodies with postural balance and core strength in mind. This assures that their physical foundation is adequate to support all the tasks that we might ask from them.
We begin training with Leading Exercises in our postural aid we call the Elbow Pull executed in the Hourglass Pattern. The pattern has designated places where they are asked to halt, square up and are given a crimped oats reward. We wait until they finish chewing the oats before we ask for another movement. This will alleviate any anxiety and is their first real introduction to learning how to stand absolutely still upon request. They are grateful for this personal consideration which greatly improves their mental attitude. Each animal is continually assessed throughout training and the approach is modified according to their individual needs. Being fair, respectful, clear and consistent in handling practices with a carefully planned REWARD system –without bribery or indiscriminant treats – will enhance the pleasure and safety that you will experience during interaction with your equine! Anxiety and resistance is always kept to the bare minimum!
The next introduction to standing still will take place during their Ground Driving exercises. At first, they will again be driven through the Hourglass Pattern in the Elbow Pull postural aid with the verbal command to WHOA for all the designated halts and squaring up. You will put the lines across their rump, walk to the front, and give them their crimped oats reward. Then resume your position behind them and stand absolutely still while they chew their oats. Only allow them to go forward when you give the verbal command to WALK ON.
As they become stronger in their core strength and are able to hold their good equine posture, you can add obstacles to the lessons. First teach them to go straight through the obstacles with periodic halts, again squaring them up, rewarding and waiting for them to finish chewing before giving the command to WALK ON. Then, repeat the obstacle lessons with strategic halts in the middle of the obstacles while asking them to stand absolutely still. You will eventually be able to phase out the Elbow Pull postural aid.
The next lessons will take place at the Work Station. Go through your usual grooming and saddling routine. Tack up as illustrated in Training Mules and Donkeys DVD #2. Check your animal’s girth to make sure it’s snug enough. You should barely be able to slide your hand between your equine’s side and the girth. Be careful of getting the girth too tight!
Ask your equine to stand quietly while you grasp the saddle at the horn 9Or mane at the withers) and cantle. Put your foot in the stirrup and boost yourself to a standing position at his side. Carefully, lean over his back, talking and petting him until he gets used to your new position. Be sure to reward him from his back on each side.
Slowly get down, go to the other side and repeat the exercise. Initially, you may mount your mule, or donkey, at the work station. First mount horses in the Round Pen where there is no ceiling overhead. Your goal is to get your equine to be at ease with you putting your foot in the stirrup, and lifting yourself over his back. Get him used to weight in the stirrups, the feel of the saddle and some weight on his back.
When he’s calm with this exercise, go to the Round Pen. I prefer to do this preliminary work in an English saddle. It is lighter, easier to handle and less intimidating to the animal.
However, you may prefer to use a Western saddle the first few times you mount in the Round Pen. The stirrups are larger, it’s more stable and the saddle horn might come in handy. Choose the saddle in which you feel most secure.
It’s best to have someone helping you for the next stage in saddle training, so ask a friend to act as your assistant. Have your assistant stand quietly at the mule’s head, but not actually hold him—you have control with your reins.
Your assistant will stand by for safety only and will give the illusion to your animal that he is still just to be lunged, only now with a rider.
Ask your equine to stand quietly with soothing verbal communication. Grasp the saddle at the horn 9or mane at the withers) and cantle, and then boost yourself into a standing position at his side with your foot in the stirrup.
If he spooks, or bolts, just let go of the saddle, but maintain your hold on the left rein so you don’t lose him. Have your assistant allow him slack with the line she (or he) is holding. Quietly, and firmly, ask him to “Whoa,” get organized and try it again.
Hang off the saddle on the near side and run your hands all over the far side of his body. Do this on both sides. Add swinging your leg over his back. Stay low with your upper body, leaning forward on both sides. Make him pay attention to you by offering the oats reward from each side.
When you mount, drag your right leg firmly against his body. Move your leg gently up his hip, over his rump and down the other side to the stirrup. Don’t plop down like a sack of potatoes! Settle slowly and quietly into the saddle. Dismount on the opposite side from which you mounted each time.
Rock your weight from side to side and let him feel how the saddle moves on his back. Continually reassure him during this procedure by firmly, but gently, touching him all over his body (See IMPRINTING BEYOND BIRTH under TRAINING/MULE CROSSING on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com). Lean forward and ask him to take oats from your hand on both sides to make sure he is aware of where you are on his back. The more movement he can tolerate while standing still and the calmer he is taking the oats from your hand, the better he will do later.
Do only as much of this in any one lesson as he can easily tolerate. Always try to end your lessons on a positive note, and do not get in too much of a hurry—that’s usually where the trouble begins.
Then it is time to get him used to the mounting block in the Round Pen. Do things exactly the same way you have done, in the same order, complete with offering the oats reward from his back on both sides. When he finally stands absolutely still, reward him lavishly and then put him away. With each new lesson review the previous lesson and add a little more to it each time as you are able.
In order to keep your equine calm, and for the sake of safety, to avoid getting your foot caught in a stirrup and run the risk of having your mule drag you, each time you dismount always take both of your feet out of the stirrups.
With one foot still in the stirrup, you’d be in an awkward position. If your equine becomes frightened and shies away, your foot could get stuck in the stirrup and you’d be in big trouble. Practicing good technique will keep you and your equine safe and comfortable during all lessons.
By the time your equine is ready for the open arena or the trail, he will clearly know the meaning of WHOA and will learn to be patient and wait for your command to WALK ON. You will be able to halt him at any time with confidence about his absolute obedience. Too many of us get in a hurry to just get on and go.
When you take the time to go through this process, however slow it might seem, it can save you a lot of potential harm that could result in some pretty extraordinary doctor bills and vet bills for you and your equine. Speeding up, slowing down, halting and backing becomes a representation of your ultimate mutual cooperation with each other!
It was bad enough before computers and cell phones when people thought they wanted a horse and could realistically have one. They thought if they had a little patch of grass and a fence around it, it would be enough to keep a horse. They never thought about shelter, feed (they could just eat the grass!), vet and farrier care, and about a dozen other things that it takes to maintain an equine.
Those who indulged themselves and bought a horse under those conditions soon found out that keeping an equine was a bit more than they bargained for! If they got the equine for FREE, that was even better…NOT! If they got them cheap, it was GREAT…NOT! If they got them cheap from the Kill Pens and rescued them, Oh, how compassionate they thought they were being! If they didn’t have a small patch of grass, but really wanted a horse, a Boarding Stable was the perfect option provided that the price was right! They would have the privilege of riding with their friends! Boarding Stables with limited exposure to their owners is not good for mules or donkeys, and are even worse for Boarding Stable employees that need to deal with them on a daily basis. Monitoring their feed in a healthy way at a Boarding Stable is next to impossible because they want to feed ALL the equines the same way, no matter what you write for them on a stable sign.
Cindy and I talked about the “Good Old Days” when we used to live on a ranch, had horses and could be gone all day riding with our friends! Today, our lives are so easy and require no experience to have the knowledge that you can now hold in your hand! The value of EXPERIENCE is diminished until you get hurt! There were so many things that we learned by having the full responsibility of cleaning pens, feeding, grooming, tacking up our own horses and then riding in so many different situations. One really LEARNED how to make decisions and analyze the knowledge that we gleaned. We soon learned the approaches and things that we could do SAFELY, and that kept our experiences happy and joyful! We KNEW it would cost a minimum of $5000.00/year to maintain and train our equines! Our relationships with our equines were good and they were able to teach us WELL!
When one grows up with all things done FOR them, one loses the benefits of all those lessons that Cindy and I were able to learn. Our lives were truly filed with the love and joy we got from being with our equines, and even more, the challenges that were put before us to be BETTER. That enhanced everything we did with our animals! It made us more curious and willing to ask questions of all kinds of people that knew more than we did…and we learned so much MORE! We learned about who to trust and who we should consider suspect. We heard all about the Horse Traders and discovered the differences between them, and the differences between honest people that were also selling equines.
If you do get an animal that you are not compatible with and you want to sell him to someone else, be careful about how you do that. It is good to advertise, but know what you are talking about. If you get in a situation where you can not longer afford to take care of the animal(s) you have, be careful what you do, or it can break your heart! The first thing to do is to ask around with people you know and see if anyone can take your animal. If not, then advertise in equine publications, or on the internet, and see if there is any interest there.
If the last resort is putting them in an auction…BEWARE! You might get stopped with your truck and trailer in the parking lot and a dealer that offers to take them off your hands right there! If you are tight for cash and looking for a convenient fix to your problem, you might think this is a great deal, but this is what KILLER BUYERS do!!!
When you are looking for an equine, don’t be afraid to talk to a lot of people, starting with people that you know are good horsemen. If they don’t have anything for sale, ask for credible references. You can usually find a lot of knowledgeable people at shows, fairs and exhibitions, but beware of what they tell you and remember that they want to SELL the animal and they know nothing about your riding ability and in most cases, they don’t care.
We learned to watch the animals at the auctions and the way they were being presented. Don’t be afraid to ask WHY they are being sold! Were they truly calm and well-trained, or were they drugged and would be quite different when they were taken home? It wasn’t hard after a while, to tell the difference among who the really good trainers were and those who “faked it” for a sale. It was even important to know the difference among trainers in case you would need help after purchasing your equine. Is the seller a true MULE PERSON?
It is important to know what kind of person YOU are (and be honest…quick temper?) before you decide what kind of equine you want to have. Research all it takes to maintain the different kinds of equines (small, large, active, docile, etc.) and whether their conformation is going to be sound enough for what you want to do with them. Ask a professional if your assumptions (and that IS what they are when you are ignorant about equines…assumptions!) are correct and sound, and will they work the way you would like them to work. Is this going to be the horse, or mule, for YOU!
The nice thing about buying a mule is that THEY will decide whether or not they like YOU! If they are not attracted to you…forget that mule! If you do find a mule that seems to be attracted to you and comes right up to you…he might be THE ONE! Then it is time to get a vet to help with a pre-purchase exam to make sure he is sound. Lots can be hidden with drugs, so take your time with this and give any drugs time to wear off. Have your vet and farrier do exams on the hooves to make sure the equine has not been “nerved.” When an equine has been “nerved,” their unsoundness can be hidden for months and years.
When you do think you have found that ideal mule, don’t be averse to asking the seller for a trial period, usually for a month to make sure things were not overlooked. This should be clearly stated in a contract between the buyer and the seller with stipulations about how things will be handled with the animal to keep him safe. You must assure the buyer that your facility would not be injurious to the animal and that he will be properly maintained. It is helpful to include acceptable surprise visits by the seller if he has any concerns at all.
If you hire a trainer and show your mule, be sure to have a clear contract with that trainer about expectations. Be sure to have a legal Power of Attorney drawn up in case of accidents that will clearly state how the animal is to be handled should something happen to you. The trainer should always be paid up in full and the animal should never be used for collateral for non-payment. As a rule, I only allow supervised youth riders on my mules for specific youth classes at shows. It is not a good idea to let anyone else ride your mule. I find that their relationships are VERY specific to the people they love! HAPPY TRAILS!
If you would like to have more information about buying and selling equines, I suggest you purchase Cindy Roberts’ book, HOW TO BUY A MULE & NOT GET SCREWED. It is an excellent resource for this kind of information. And, if you want to know as much as you can about Longears, take a look at all the books and videos that I have available both in the STORE and the FREE information under TRAINING on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUINE MANAGEMENT & DONKEY TRAINING, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
CHASITYis a Large Standard, 13 year old spotted jennet that we bought in 2020 to be a companion for our Large Standard gelding donkey, Wrangler, after he lost his mule friend in March of 2020. She came to us with lots of challenging health issues, but we are no strangers to that with our past rescues. When we have a case like this, we like to share our approach and the solutions we discover while consulting with our professional team of experts. We hope these LTR website diaries can help you to find solutions to the problems that you might face with your own Longears!
Welcome to the wonderful world of mules! The mule is a product of the successful breeding of a male donkey, called a jack, and a female horse, called a mare. Mules can either be male or female, but they are unable to reproduce because of an odd number of chromosomes in their genetic makeup. When training mules, one needs to take into account the donkey half of the mule as well as the horse half. Horses can often be trained without the benefit of a personal relationship, but mules are different. The donkey is inherently a warm, affectionate and loving creature that thrives on close relationships with their humans. When this closeness is absent, the donkey or mule can seem stubborn and uncooperative. Thus, there is the old saying, “Stubborn as a mule!”
It is important when dealing with donkeys and mules to begin by establishing a bond with your animal. Think of it as cultivating a friendship. When you and your animal are introduced, give him time to get to know you and his surroundings by keeping things simple. Close friendships are best developed when positive assets are recognized and any negativity is kept to a minimum. Cultivate good feelings with positive action.
Mules and donkeys respond best when you take the time to be considerate and understanding of their needs. Before they can launch into a training program, they need to feel comfortable about their surroundings and their trainer. Feeding time is a good time to spend with your mule. This is the beginning of a long-lasting friendship with your mule. You can stroke him all over his body, talk to him, brush him and clean his feet while he is eating provided he is in an enclosure by himself, or just with his dam.
Raising mules and donkeys is much the same as raising children. They need love, guidance and understanding, coupled with a learning program that has a natural step-by-step progression and a reward system that they can easily follow. Doing too much too soon will only lead to confusion and resistance. Be patient and willing to take the time to enjoy the day-today victories that you both will achieve to make life more fun and enjoyable.
Competition is fun and exciting but can easily become a devastating experience for both of you if the focus is winning against others. Rather, the focus should be to compete against yourself. If you are doing better than the time before, then you are doing well. You don’t need a blue ribbon to mark your improvement. When you go to a show with this attitude, you gain more open communication and friendships with others who have the same interests as you do. You are able to learn from those who are more experienced; judges and officials can help you to improve. This makes the whole showing experience more enjoyable and mutually beneficial to all.
One mule-loving family wrote to me about a show they had just attended. The mother wrote that her three boys expressed devout confidence when asked how they felt about their readiness to show. They went into the show expecting to win everything they entered. They had practiced at home until there were no flaws in their performance. The show day arrived. The eldest boy was entered in a pleasure driving class and had no reason to believe that his mule would be anything but the steady mule he was. To the boy’s horror, the mule went to the rail, put his head over the rail and froze. Needless to say, they didn’t place and the boy’s pride was crushed.
The second son was in the trail class with his mule. They, too, had practiced until their performance was flawless. Strangely enough, the gate in the trail class just didn’t appear to his mule to be like the gate at home, and the mule would go nowhere near it! He, too, was humbled and left the class with nothing.
The youngest by took his mule into his class and the mule was the same steady animal he had been at home. They finished as High-Point Champion of the show for their division.
What do you suppose was the difference in these three cases? I told the mother that I believed that a mule first needs to bond to his handler. She told me that made perfect sense. The other two boys rode and drove their mules, and practiced all the patterns and movements they would find in the show. The youngest boy spent a good part of his time just hanging out with his mule, taking him for walks, feeding carrots, doing very simple and pleasurable things with his mule, as well as practicing the exercises they needed for their classes. They were buddies, they were a team – and they won the Championship because this is how to build a friendship and what good sportsmanship is all about.
A good trainer will train himself, or herself, as well as the mule with subtle direction coming from the mule. Develop respect for your mule, responsibility in caring for your mule and self-discipline in the way you handle the mule. You will develop patience and consistency in training, neatness in you and your mule’s appearance, and pride in yourself and your mule.
Although this sounds easy enough, it really isn’t. Human nature is to be protective of ourselves and selfish about what we want and what we do. Learning to be of service to others, including our animals, requires a lot of thought and consideration. How easy it is to criticize others and blame them for the things that go awry. It’s easy to be that “Monday Morning Quarterback” and point out what’s wrong which is often followed by blame. Blame is no fun for the scapegoat and often causes severely hurt feelings. As if WE could do any better? Could you? Wouldn’t it be better if we recognized people’s assets and complimented them instead of honing in on their mistakes and criticizing them for what they do? If one ceased to criticize, wouldn’t we learn more and become more intelligent about our own choices?
When our focus becomes solely on what our Longears can do for us and when we spend hours “drilling” them to make things perfect, is that really a way to get the best from them? How about keeping the lessons short and rewarding every success along the way…AND, know when to quit and begin another day. My Grandmother used to say, “You can catch more flies with honey than you can with vinegar.” I used to think in my head, “I don’t really want to catch flies and I don’t even like honey,” but I got her point and she was right. When I got frustrated that my mules were not doing exactly what I wanted them to do, I began to ask myself, “Why not?” I thought I knew everything, until I realized how much I had yet to learn. That is when I stopped trying to force things and became grateful for everything good that happened, every day! People told me that my Longears and my other equines needed a job to be worthy of my respect and support. I thought about it for awhile. Then I realized…my equines never told me they needed a job!
At that time, I began to think about what it might be like for my mules. Yes, God gave us “dominion” over the animals, but that doesn’t make me a King (or a Queen) over them! As I opened my mind to new meaning about it all, I realized it meant that I was their “keeper.” Now, was I going to be a responsible “keeper” and do right by them? Was I going to be the same way toward others? When I opened my heart and my mind to my animals and others…that was when I really discovered how little I knew and how much I had yet to learn. I realized at that time that this would be an endless endeavor, but a lot of time to share and enjoy life!
As I began to share the experiences in my career with others instead of trying to sell everything, I was made aware of how so many others shared with me and how much smarter and compassionate I was becoming. The way I treated my Longears evolved and the responses I got from them were amazing o say the very least. Then I had an epiphany about what it really was…I was no longer USING my mules and donkeys, I appreciated what they gave to me…and the gifts they gave just kept coming. They were now true companions, partners, friends and our experiences together were quite literally becoming joyful!
The American Donkey and Mule Society was founded in 1967 at which time mules and donkeys began to make their debut in America as recreational animals instead of merely working and farm animals. Their presence in exhibitions, parades and new Longears shows made quite an impression on the general public. They added a new dimension to equine shows that people found both entertaining and exciting. It didn’t take long before children began asking their parents if they could have a mule as a 4-H Club project. Well, this set 4-H leaders back on their heels! The horse manual really did not address the differences between mules and horses (and there were distinct differences!), so in a lot of cases, the request from the kids was denied. In response to this denial from 4-H Club Leaders, I wrote my book, A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES…for kids and beginners. No longer could the 4-H Leaders use this excuse and mules began cropping up in equine performance throughout the country!
I knew that my approach to training was going to really annoy a lot of Old Timers that were of the persuasion that mules were stubborn, hard to handle, one had to get their attention with a two-by-four, were dangerous and other really negative ideas. I knew that my attempt to offer a better and humane way to train them would be met with skepticism and contempt. I was right. I had embarked on a journey that would define my entire career, but with my own stubbornness and conviction, I have been able to show folks a better approach.
The kids discovered an amazing and safer riding companion than they ever could have imagined! Instead of taking on people’s mules to train, I opted to teach them how to train their own equines and it has worked miracles. Lots of the Old Timers that had poo-pooed me in the past, changed their minds about a lot of the beliefs that they had. As they aged, these same Old Timers were grateful for the much safer approach to training than they had been previously offered. They found a lot of places to exhibit their extraordinary abilities with their Longears in shows, parades and on the trail with their friends. We were all able to share in their successes and smiles would abound.
Longears have made their way into our society as yet another viable addition for the entertainment of the general population. More people than ever are taking on this challenge and making their mark as Mule Trainers. There is probably nothing as exciting as watching the drivers and their multiple hitches in shows and parades, the least of which is not the 20-Mule Team that is now being exhibited all over America. What a thrill to behold! People are now truly enjoying the affection and companionship these amazing equines have to offer! A light has been shown on the mules of the past! Those that thought mules could not be controlled, are now enjoying the companionship of their own leading celebrities of the equine community! So reject criticism, reject negativity and become a member of this new world of Longears and experience the joy that they have to offer! It’s quite simply…awesome!
Covered in A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES, TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
Military Horsemanship began with Xenophon who was born c. 430 BC, in the deme Erchia of Athens. Xenophon’s father, Gryllus, was a member of a wealthy equestrian family and worked on many of the principles of classical dressage. Xenophon emphasized training the horse through kindness and reward. These principles made their way to the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, Austria where Colonel Podhasky rode for General Patton after WWII. This style of riding, Dressage, made its way to the West and was been transformed into Western Dressage.
The object of Dressage is “the harmonious development of the physique and ability of the horse. As a result, it makes the horse calm, supple, loose, and flexible, but also confident, attentive and keen, thus achieving perfect understanding with his rider.” In Dressage, one is not concerned with time in training. Rather, it is measured in progress from one step to another. Dressage requires a discipline of the mind and body. This slow and methodical way of training lends itself nicely to mules.
“Mules separate crude trainers from artistic trainers.” The mule handled by a crude trainer will generally epitomize the traditional belief that mules are stubborn and ornery. The mule handled by an artistic trainer will not.
The Indians of America were subtle with their horse training. They would lie across their backs to get them used to being not only ridden, but also so they could hang off the side of the horse and remain hidden while chasing the huge bison herds. In order to be bale to steer the horse, they would attach a strap around the lower jaw or configure a “War Bridle” that also had a loop around the head and jaw.
Horse training techniques began in America with the cowboys by using blindfolds for mounting, forceful restraints, lying the animal down and put tarps over them to impress human dominance.
“Breaking” horses and mules was the trend of the early West. The equine was restrained for saddling and bridling instead of using a slow and polite approach. Cowboys would try to ride them out until they gave up and quit bucking.
Training “secrets” happened “behind the back fence. Lots of trainers used rope tricks to train by leading with a front foot, or by lying them down, or just roping them to catch them. Beware of these sorts of things when buying your equine!
Horse training trends have evolved from Buck Branaman, Pat Parelli, Clinton Anderson, etc. and their Round Pen training techniques using ropes on the equines. Natural Horsemanship rose from these methods, using less restraint on the equine.
Some mules could tolerate this, but it didn’t always yield the most positive results. Natural Horsemanship was an attractive trend. However, since equines are not born in their ideal posture any more than humans are, it fails to put the equine into an ideal posture. Lordosis (sway back) and Kissing Spine can occur as the animal ages. We have been able to improve some cases of Kissing Spine where the calcification was able to be broken loose, but if it is too solid, it would require a dangerous surgery to correct it.
With their approach, Monte Roberts and Richard Shrake developed even more humane training techniques with horses. Equines were approached in a more calm and relaxing way with attention to patience, good posture and core strength development.
This gave way to the new trend of teaching them to lie down. Equines do not lie down easily, so it wasn’t always used as an easy way to mount. It really shouldn’t be used that way because of the added stress put on the equine’s body that can cause arthritis and other problems with the hooves, and joints, as they age.
Having your equine lie down can be an exercise in bonding in a relaxing way. Just be careful to position yourself in a safe spot.
In order to get the equines to lie down, they were first taken down forcefully with ropes.
Mules being more easily convinced were compliant to a tap behind the knee and one rope from the offside to suggest lying down.
I saw a horse being exhibited at the WEG that was forced to bow with ropes. I thought it could be beneficial to find out how long it would take for an equine to learn to bow of his accord with his own muscle strength. Lance learned to do it by himself with only slight encouragement from me in 18 months.
People thought this was good for mounting, but common sense told me that a mounting block would be better. Putting extra weight on the animal and then asking him to get up would only exacerbate the stress on his body as he was rising. Equines are built to carry weight underneath the spine, but not so much on their back.
If the argument is that amounting block can’t be brought along for trail riding, it makes more sense to simply acquire a shorter animal.
If you do want a taller equine, he can be taught to stretch out and lower his back like a Park Horse with a lot less stress on his body. He can hoist his body up much easier from this position. There are also stirrups available that can be lowered and then reset once you are in the saddle.
This worked better with mules, but still not as well as Behavior Modification and reward system training. Behavior Modification was abbreviated and gave way to Clicker Training.
Clicker Training made Trick Training much easier. Trick Training can be fun, but you should still do the postural core strength exercises so he does not hurt his body when engaging in trick training.
Towing tires in the snow, or people on water skis in a lake might be fun, but consider the amount of resistant weight against the animal’s good posture during these kinds of activities. I opted to tow tires through the snow, or roller blade, from directly behind my mules so as not to offset their balance in a harmful way. The hind quarters can provide even power from behind to pull straight. This can be fun if your animal is properly prepared.
Learn to think about the consequence of your actions in relationship to the effect it has on your equine’s body and prepare accordingly.
Restraints are helpful in dealing with mules but must not be applied so they cause pain. Hobbles, leg straps, and scotch ties are generally all that is needed in dealing with difficult mules. Even if the mule has led a life of abuse, their ability to determine just who is responsible for their pain means that with love and kindness, they can be taught to trust again. It just takes a lot of time and patience.
If you find restraints are not sufficient to help with your equine, you may be dealing with an outlaw, in which case it is best to put him out of his misery before he injures someone. Be careful however about blaming the animal for his response to an inhumane trainer. Some can be rehabilitated, some cannot, but you will need to know what you are doing. Kindness alone is not the answer.
People like to do wild and crazy things with their animals. I am not saying “don’t,” just try to be responsible and think about the consequences of your actions and the effect it has on your equine’s body. Doing preparatory core strength and postural body work can assure that the equine is using his body in the correct way. When he is not prepared, there can be all kinds of damage done to his hooves, joints, ligaments and tendons such as ring bone and side bones.
Longears do not seek to impress, nor do they have inflated ideas of importance. They are humble, not greedy or selfish, and are content to give freely all that they have to give. There is no limit to their endurance and no end to their trust. Unpleasant moments are undoubtedly remembered, yet forgiven when requested. Owners should be inspired to be more constructive in their management and training approach. Within Longears, there is a hidden hope of happiness, contentment, peace and brotherhood. The inspiration of these noble characteristics does not go unnoticed as they ennoble those around them.
Mules and Donkeys are very appreciative animals. If a child and Longears are supervised correctly, it can greatly enhance the entire riding experience. The mule, or donkey will protect your child with his excellent judgment and the child will learn to be a patient and understanding person through the interaction with his Longears. The jobs these “kids” are dong with their mules and donkeys are wonderful and their contributions are extensive. The values learned by children when dealing with donkeys and mules will stand them in good stead throughout their lives, not to mention the joy they will discover in having such an interactive companion.
Today good mule trainers apply the basic techniques of Behavior Modification (reward system training) in their programs. That is, getting the desired response through positive reinforcement and ignoring, as much as possible, the undesired behavior. Negative reinforcement, or punishment, is used sparingly, is never severe and is only used to set boundaries to behavior.
With new and improved training techniques, the mules of today are known for their beauty and outstanding athletic ability, their durability and their intelligence. Their uses are limited only to the imaginations of their owners. It is now commonly known that with proper training, a mule can perform better than the horse it was bred from. Subsequently, mules are not only competing in mule shows, but horse shows as well.
Although mule racing has just begun to take hold as a national sport, it had its beginnings in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains of California in 1851, when Captain Boling’s cavalry troop was forced to halt for two months in the Yosemite Valley. Horse racing was one of the major sports used to keep up the spirits of the men during this unexpected respite. Army mules were included in these races to add to the entertainment. Much to the chagrin of some of the horse owners, the mules could actually beat some of the cavalry’s favorite mounts.
Captain Boling purchased one Maltese, Kentucky-blooded mule (known as The Vining Mule). He was particularly impressed and bought him for one thousand dollars in gold from Lee Vining. He then went on to make many more thousands in match races with this mule against horses. To quote from the official racing program: “The Indian war of 1851 was the catalyst that started the first running of mules in California.” The first actual pari-mutuel mule meet was held in Bishop, California in July of 1978. Match races and Western-style races included at county fairs exhibit the true versatility of the mule. With increased interest, mule racing now assumes the professionalism of horse racing with the introduction of jockeys, trainers, and starting gates.
At Bishop Mule Days, Longears perform in Pleasure classes, Reining classes, Trail, Musical Tires, Barrel Racing and Pole Bending. Also Jumping, Cattle Penning, Steer Stopping, Team Roping, and a Balloon Bust. For the packers: Pack Train classes, Packing contests, Box Hitch and Diamond Hitch packing contests (pro and non-pro), Team Packing and the Team Packing Scramble which you have to see to believe! There are Halter classes, Pulling, Driving classes, and for you race fans: Chariot races, Flat Track races, and even a Backwards race!
It was Maryster Farm’sKit who had inspired me to try Combined Training with a mule! We spoke for about twenty minutes and Susan at the Abbe Ranch Horse Trials kindly put my fears to rest. I assured her that we would do anything necessary to keep from interfering with the other competitors. All we wanted to do was to test our skills and to learn all we could from those with similar interests. The next day our ride times came in the mail and we were in! After three years of intensive schooling, we finally won our event against the horses!
Counties have been taking initiative to include mules and donkeys in the county fairs, and local riding clubs are inviting them to participate in annual All-Breed shows. Increased understanding and appreciation for the positive qualities of Longears brings more and more people together all the time. Their generous ways have positively influenced people toward a genuine pursuit of happiness.
People agree that the best part of their long journeys with their mules was all the wonderful people they met along the way who did everything they could to help them reach their destination. People extended their hospitality, allowing them to bed down at their ranches along the route. Others met them at strategic points with feed and water and other necessary supplies that would be difficult to carry along with them. Many new friendships have been made on the trail.
Mules are excellent mountain partners. They are a strong and durable animal. Due to the cupped shape of their hooves, they can cover the rough mountain terrain with much more surefootedness than their cousin, the horse. Mules’ superior intelligence and strong sense of survival helps him to negotiate careful placements of his feet, ensuring the safest possible ride. This is both important and comforting when looking for a relaxing ride in the mountains. The mule’s strength and endurance is sometimes unbelievable, and always incredible.
The trends of equine training have certainly improved by leaps and bounds through the centuries, but we are still plagued by those who are too naive to really assess how their behavior influences that of their equine and are subsequently influenced by substandard training practices. It is always best to learn from past mistakes and try to do better going forward. Cindy K. Roberts and I hope that we can share our experiences with all of you so you too can experience the same kind of joy and pleasure that we do with our equines! Wishing you all HAPPY TRAILS!
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, TRAINING DVD #2 and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
What to look for in the ideal head, neck, and shoulders of the mule. Mare and Both the mare and the jack contribute to the qualities desired in the mule.
Be selective in your breeding program to producing desirable mules.
Bone structure is important when selecting a mule for a job or performance.
The mule overall should have a balanced look to his body.
Pay attention to the hip, stifle, and gaskin, that should have a smooth-muscled look.
Mules and donkeys possess more “long” muscle than bulk muscle (as in the horse.)
Pay attention to the legs of the mule, the hooves, rib cage, joints, etc.
The most important trait of the mule is his disposition; this characteristic comes primarily from the mare.
People have often asked me how on earth can only three people—my daughter, my husband and myself—manage to prepare and show as many as 18 head of mules and donkeys for one show?! They say that we must be crazy, and maybe we are a little crazy, but a few simple rules of organization have made this possible.
The first consideration is the grooming of the animals themselves. Anyone who has had to body clip an animal knows how tedious and time-consuming this can be. Mule and donkey hair does not appear to grow back as quickly, nor as radically, as does horse hair, so you can clip your mule, or donkey, as far as 2-3 weeks in advance of your show and do touch up work just before the show. If you have no shows until summer, you may want to body clip in mid-April anyway. It is at this time that the winter hair begins to shed and the summer hair starts to come in. If you clip off the winter hair and blanket him for the remainder of the spring, the hair that grows in will be much more manageable than the heavy winter hair and will greatly reduce grooming time before the show.
Once the heavier coat is eliminated, a weekly grooming will keep his coat nicely maintained. Daily grooming before a show, or every other day, is even better. Each time you groom him before riding, check and clip as needed the muzzle hairs, around the eyes and ears, and around the coronet bands. Leave the hairs inside the ears to prevent irritation from bugs and flies, but trim the outside edges and backs of the ears. An ounce of corn oil in his feed daily will assure a healthy sheen in his coat on show day without the use of artificial highlighters. Trimming, or shoeing, your mule on a regular six-eight week schedule will assure that his feet will not need attending at the last minute. A routine vaccination, deworming, Coggins testing and a permanent brand inspection will make sure he is ready for transport to any show anywhere at any time. Then, all that remains to be done right before the show is minor clipping, bathing, and polishing hooves.
Each individual mule, or donkey, should have his own personal show halter and bridle for convenience. Driving animals should each have their own set of harness. This will help to reduce the time between tack changes while at the show.
Dress rehearsals before the show at home are quite beneficial. Prepare as if you are about to enter each class, one at a time. First, pick the clothing you will need to wear and store it in a designated place in your house. You do not have to actually wear them for the rehearsal. As you pick out the items, take note of the things that need to be cleaned or polished, and set them to the side of the rest of your other clothes.
Then, tack up your animal, checking each piece of equipment to make sure that it is in working order. Go ahead and practice the class. Then, as you unpack your mule, set the tack aside from the rest in your tack room for cleaning later. Do this for each animal in each class. Your animals will do better at the show if they get plenty of rest before the show, so it is wise to spend the day before the show cleaning your tack, clothes, and equipment. Before you begin to clean, load all the items into your trailer that are all ready to go without cleaning. Then, as you clean the remaining items, load them directly into the trailer as you finish them.
When the basic gear for you and your animal is loaded, make a checklist for feed, buckets, hoses, brushes, forks, brooms, and shovels, etc., that you will need for general care, load them, and check them off. When you have finished, lay out all the items that you will need for transport (i.e. sheets, blankets, shipping boots, etc.), so they are easily available. If you proceed in this manner, the risk of forgetting any important items is minimized. It is best to make sure that your trailer is fully loaded (except the animals) the night before you leave as this gives you overnight to think of anything you might have missed. Items such as your ice chest can be left until morning, or last minute, provided that you put them in a highly visible spot with a list of what is to be put in attached. Do not try to rely on your memory, as it will be clouded by the excitement and anticipation of the show.
If you are taking a number of mules and donkeys to the show, it is wise to bathe with soap at home the day before; then, cover the animal with a sheet or blanket and leg wraps. The day of the show, you would then only need to rinse, or vacuum, any excess dirt. This will minimize grooming time at the show.
Post the show schedule where you will be tacking up for each class and organize your clothing and equipment such that it is ready to go and easily accessible. Once the show actually begins, you will not have time to go hunting for misplaced items. Take note of your clothing changes and wear things that are easily changed. For instance, if your Western classes are before your English classes, you can wear your breeches underneath your Western slacks and chaps. Changing from English attire to Driving and Side Saddle attire is easily done by wearing your English clothing, then, simply change your headgear and add a lap rug for driving, or an apron for Side Saddle. Changes of your boots are pretty much optional, as English boots are easily hidden beneath properly fitting Western chaps and are appropriate footwear for English, Driving and Side Saddle.
If classes are spaced fairly close together and you are using more than one animal, it is wise to tack up the other animals ahead of time so they are ready to go. If you are using only one saddle for more than one animal, the other animals can still be bridled with the halter slipped over it, so they can be tied and waiting. Be sure to tie up the reins so they will not be chewed or stepped on. If you are using the same mule throughout the show, tacking and stripping should not be too time-consuming if your equipment is well organized.
Shows should be fun and exciting, but it can easily turn into a nightmare when things are out of place and chaotic. Make your motel and stabling reservations early and leave for the show well ahead of schedule to allow for breakdowns or other unforeseen emergencies. By all means, bring friends to help you, but give them a briefing and a list of jobs they can do. They won’t be much help if they have to keep asking what to do the day of the show! If you are going any distance at all, have your truck and trailer checked over thoroughly before you leave. There is nothing more frustrating than a major breakdown on the roadside with a trailer full of animals!
In summary, with routine grooming, farrier care, vet care, regular Coggins testing during the show season and permanent brand inspections, you can greatly reduce your show preparation time. Dress rehearsals, individual tack for each animal and organized loading will assure that all your tack and equipment will be readily available. Advanced motel and stabling reservations will afford you and your animals much needed rest when you arrive. Having your truck and trailer checked before you leave will make sure that you arrive in plenty of time. And, organization of tack and equipment when you do arrive will heighten the chances for an enjoyable and relaxing show!
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
In Part 1, you learned how to begin the relationship with your miniature equine in a positive and natural way that fosters good behavior and a good relationship between you. You also learned the importance of getting down to your mini’s eye level so that he can make eye contact with you, which discourages striking, jumping on you and other bad behaviors that are common when working with miniature equines. In Part 2, I discussed how important it is to successfully complete the tasks in Part 1 before moving on to Part 2, and explained why it is advisable to work minis in groups, as they perform better when they are with their friends. You also learned how to train minis to go over and around various obstacles. Remember that all of this is to be done with no expectations that may overwhelm your mini—it is better if you maintain an attitude of fun and games. Now, in Part 3, it is time to get down to some serious training so your mini can be used for the purpose of driving and showing in hand.
Miniature mules and horses settle into their lunging lessons very well, but miniature donkeys (and donkeys in general) really don’t like to be lunged. They just don’t seem to see much purpose in it unless you make it fun for them. If you have a mini donkey, when teaching him to lunge it is helpful if you employ the aid of another type of equine of comparative size (such as a miniature horse or mule) to help “lead” your mini donkey through the lessons. Before I first began lunging my two mini donkeys, Augie and Spuds, I introduced them to Franklin the mini mule, Francis the mini molly mule and Mirage the mini horse by putting them altogether in the larger indoor arena space, and then I put them all in the round pen together. Before I began giving any of them specific instructions, they were all allowed some time to investigate each other and establish their pecking order. Before long all five were lunging cooperatively together, although Spuds did feel the need to kick at Mirage a few times so Mirage would allow him enough space to perform. (Mirage can be a bully sometimes and needed to be put in his place.)
After several months of leading training done in good posture on the flat ground and over obstacles (see “Showmanship,” which is covered in DVDs #1 and #9 of my DVD training series, Training Mules and Donkeys), it is enough at this point in your mini’s training that you teach him to walk, trot and canter on command on the large circle in the round pen.
In the beginning, lessons should be only 15 to 20 minutes long at the most, and only every other day. This helps your mini avoid fatigue and allows him to rest in between each lesson so he can process what he has learned. However, there may be times when things don’t go as planned and you will need slightly more than the suggested 15 to 20 minutes. If you try to rush your mini to finish his lessons, you could end up spending a lot more wasted time in a confrontation with him. Because of this, on lesson days, it is better to make sure that, if necessary, you have the whole day to spend with him. When you approach your mini with this attitude, you will be able to accomplish your goals much more easily and in much less time. Remember, whenever you are working with any breed of equine, you should always make sure you have no pressing appointments that day that might cause you to rush through the training process.
It is important that your tack and other “mini” equipment fit well. Check the harness to make sure the bridle fits and the bit is placed correctly, and be sure to adjust the blinders on your harness bridle so they don’t rub against your mini’s eyes. Fitting miniature donkeys for harness can sometimes be difficult, but I was fortunate to find Chimacum Tack, a tack and harness manufacturing company that does a fantastic job with miniature donkey, mule and horse harness. I suggest that you make the fitting a lesson in itself—you can even introduce your mini to the cart he will be pulling without actually hitching him up to it. Just as you have with all other obstacles, first let him inspect the tack. Then, once you have put it on him, have him stand quietly in the spot in front of the cart where he will eventually stand. Don’t forget to amply reward him and he should be more than willing to comply.
At this stage of training, lessons over obstacles can now be done with more finesse. You can begin lateral work over small rails placed in front of a fence, backing through the walk-through “L” and doing lateral work in the tractor tire. In advanced tractor tire work, if you judge it to be safe, get down on your knees so you are on your mini’s level. Now ask your mini to put all four feet inside the tractor tire, and to then make a turn on the haunches. Direct his head in the direction you choose to go first and ask him to slowly turn while all of his feet are still inside the tire. Do this by poking him in the shoulder with your index finger (just as you did when repositioning him for the farrier) and asking him to move his front end over and around the inside of the tire. Do this in one direction and then in the other direction. Stay low, maintain eye contact and don’t be too forceful in your movements.
In future lessons, ask him to put only his front feet in the middle of the tire and leave his back feet outside of the tire, and then have him pivot on his front feet. Now, instead of poking him on the shoulder to move the front end, you will poke him in the hip to ask him to move his hindquarters around the outside edge of the tire, pivoting on his front feet (that remain inside the tire). In the next lesson, you can ask him to put his hind feet inside of the tire and by poking him in the shoulder again, move his front legs around the outside of the tire, making sure he crosses over in front of and not behind the weight-bearing leg. Note: First make sure that your mini is calm during the picnic in the middle of the tire exercise (as described in Part 1) before you try any of the more advanced maneuvers described here.
By now you have taught your mini to follow on the lead while you both explore and have all kinds of adventures around your property, inspecting new things and having picnics everywhere imaginable. If your mini is to learn to be driven, he now needs to have the confidence to take the lead. When you begin this process, review (with your mini) leading together from the work station to the round pen. If you are training a team and dealing with two minis, tie their halters together at the side rings with about eighteen inches of 3/8-inch nylon rope with small snaps on each end between them, and use one lead rope snapped to the center of the tie rope between them. Begin by taking your position in the lead while carrying a dressage whip. Slowly work your way in beside them on the near (left) side, tap them each once gently on the hindquarters with the whip to let them know you expect them to continue forward and ahead of you (even though you are moving more slowly than they are on an angle to gradually work your way in behind them). Pretty soon, you should be directly behind them, encouraging them both forward if they do stop with a gentle tap of the dressage whip, but only one tap for each balky step.
In subsequent lessons going forward, the next steps are to attach the drive lines and ground-drive your mini in the round pen. Ground-drive around the rail in each direction at the walk and do smaller circles from the rail and back to the rail around the larger circle. Execute an “S” turn through the middle to change directions and do the same going in the opposite direction. End each lesson with a square halt and a back. If he does not do any of these moves with ease, just be happy with what he offers and stop the lesson there. This will give your mini a lesson in communication through the bit. It is imperative that he learns this. You always have the next lesson to continue forward and you want to avoid any confrontation that will cause resistant behavior. It is easier to prevent the behavior from occurring than to have to correct it later. If you are ground-driving two minis, work each mini alone first and then follow this exact same procedure with your team.
Moving to an open arena changes your mini’s perception of space and he will often feel like playing, so set up the cones of the hourglass pattern for him. Ground-driving through the hourglass pattern will help to maintain his attention and give him a point of focus for his lessons. Ground-drive your mini as you did in the round pen, but now he will be driven through the hourglass pattern with random halts. If you have any balking, just stop, reward for stopping, regroup and try again. Remember to go slowly and use frequent halts and backs in order to reward your mini. This helps him to stay attentive to your hands. Remember to do a full halt yourself—in good posture—before you step forward to reward him. If you pay attention to your own posture and the quality of your walk and halts, he will pay attention to his.
People ask what a miniature equine can possibly be good for besides being a pet or pasture ornament. Besides being dear, sweet companions, miniatures are able to do a lot of things.
There are classes at various shows (both open horse shows and miniature shows), where minis are not only driven in harness with a variety of carts and small carriages, but they also do trail courses and jumping on the lead line. Miniatures enjoy performing and have personality-plus, which audiences love! How well-trained your mini is will determine his willingness to do a multitude of fun activities, so make training fun and exciting for your mini. Enjoy the small victories along the way, use your creativity, reward lavishly and look forward to your adventures together.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.